Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Beadlocked Rims


Has anyone got any photos of these as to how they mount on the rim or plans as to how to make your own just cant get my head round how they attach with out letting the air out of the tyre or destroying your tyres any help would be great

the inner bead of the tyre seats as per normal on the wheel. the outer bead does not get mounted, instead it is sat flush against the outside of the wheel bead to which it is clamped (locked) via the use of an outer plate (ring) which is held in place with bolts.

i'm sure that there is heaps of info about them on the web... cruise over to the pirate bullitin board and do a search - there is heaps.

cheers mate,
Greg

I made my bead locks myself!!!!

Not as difficult as you may think, i cut two sets of rings out of 6mm plate, welded the first ring to the rim (make sure the welds are perfect as one little pin hole and they will leak) then mount you tyre and bolt the outer ring on! I used 32, 10mm high tensile bolts on each one!

I have had them on there since november last year and only one has gone down in all that time i have never put air in any of them yet!

They also hold well as none have slipped and none have un seated themselves, my tyres are usually set at 2 to 3 psi.

Heres a pic!

nice beadlocks how long did they take to make

very nice looking beadlocks there pos

2-3lbs why put air in them

taziiy wrote:2-3lbs why put air in them

With these tyres theres a huge difference between 1psi and 3psi, at 1 they flop and twist all over the place and at 3 psi they are a lot more stable but still wrap around rocks like nothing else!!!!!

One thing i can't understand is why all these people go out spend big bucks on beadlocks and still run around on 12 or 13psi, i use to run 35 tsl Boggers with out beadlocks and run them at 6 or 7 psi and never rolled one off any lower and i would have been asking for trouble!!!

Whats the point of having beadlocks if you don't use them for what they are designed to do, oh yeah thats right they LOOK TUFF

POS wrote:

taziiy wrote:2-3lbs why put air in them

One thing i can't understand is why all these people go out spend big bucks on beadlocks and still run around on 12 or 13psi, i use to run 35 tsl Boggers with out beadlocks and run them at 6 or 7 psi and never rolled one off any lower and i would have been asking for trouble!!![quote]

Different terrain and different driving styles!
Obviously everyone is'nt using their trucks for pure crawling, so higher pressures make heaps of sense.
Tyres at 3 psi may be fine for you but try and punt a heavy 4x4 through a tight rutted track at speed, at these pressures they do not turn corners.
Higher pressures are logical for many terrains.

Juzza wrote:

POS wrote:

taziiy wrote:2-3lbs why put air in them

One thing i can't understand is why all these people go out spend big bucks on beadlocks and still run around on 12 or 13psi, i use to run 35 tsl Boggers with out beadlocks and run them at 6 or 7 psi and never rolled one off any lower and i would have been asking for trouble!!!

Different terrain and different driving styles!
Obviously everyone is'nt using their trucks for pure crawling, so higher pressures make heaps of sense.
Tyres at 3 psi may be fine for you but try and punt a heavy 4x4 through a tight rutted track at speed, at these pressures they do not turn corners.
Higher pressures are logical for many terrains.

Of course higher pressure is suited to many terrains, what my point is you don't really need beadlocks when running higher pressures like 12 psi or higher!

If you were running rutted courses and tight turns then your pressures would usually not be below 18 psi (depending on tyre size) IMO you dont nessasary need beadlocks!

Ok I now understand that the inside wall of the tyre gets mounted on the rim as normal then the outside wall and bead sits up against the outside edge of the rim which is then clamped against the outside of the rim by the other ring of the beadlock the clamping force then stops the tyre seperating from the rim and holds the air presure in side fine

Only problem now is with the inner ring welded to the original rim you have to drill holes through the outside of the rim so that the bolts can thread into the inner ring pulling the outer rim onto the tyre

The question is what stops the air from leaking down the thread of the bolts and to atmosphere or are the threads into the inner ring blind holes ie not drilled all the way through or do you put some thing over the inner end of the threaded hole to stop the air leaking out

Has anyone got pirates web address

i'm sure if you put something like locktite thread sealant on the the screws they'd be able to contain 3-6psi quite easily

www.pirate4x4.com

Here is a drawing i just did, DON'T FARKEN LAUGH its the best i could do!!!!!!

Adrian,
Man we could use someone with that sort of talent in our signwriting shop!

Thats some funny shiat.

Good info though, just need your 6 year old kid to explain it to you.

Only joking, at least you took the time to try and explain it those that dont know, that's whats so good about this board!

Nice drawing.
We sell the inner and outer rings with bolts, nylocs etc ( powdercoated rings) for a $125. For most guys this workks out a lot cheaper than making them.

POS wrote:Of course higher pressure is suited to many terrains, what my point is you don't really need beadlocks when running higher pressures like 12 psi or higher!

If you were running rutted courses and tight turns then your pressures would usually not be below 18 psi (depending on tyre size) IMO you dont nessasary need beadlocks!

I have knocked many a tyre off the rim at 15-20 psi, all faster rutted hill type stuff inthe Otways/ Mt Dissa in Victoria.

i now run Beadlocks and happy to go to 8psi when the goign gets tough, but leave em around 12psi,

Crawling over rocks i would go lower but 3psi and 80-100 km/h is crazy...

even 60 km p a rutted hill can be scary at 3psi... but can knock a tyre off a rim at 15 psi still..


I run Tubes inside my Beadlock rims, never goes down and never get any 'leaks'

Man that drawing is fecken brilliant....

I hope you don't mind if I save a copy - don't worry I will credit it to you

[wouldn't want anyone to think I did it ]

My opinion and this doesn't count for much is if your not going to run under 15psi just throw tubes in the tires, that is what i have in my claws and have run them down to 12 psi, drive occordingly and you shouldn't have any problems.

Buy the way the bolts dont go through the tyre they are external so you dont have to seal them



Madshort

srowlandson wrote:

POS wrote:Of course higher pressure is suited to many terrains, what my point is you don't really need beadlocks when running higher pressures like 12 psi or higher!

If you were running rutted courses and tight turns then your pressures would usually not be below 18 psi (depending on tyre size) IMO you dont nessasary need beadlocks!

I have knocked many a tyre off the rim at 15-20 psi, all faster rutted hill type stuff inthe Otways/ Mt Dissa in Victoria.

i now run Beadlocks and happy to go to 8psi when the goign gets tough, but leave em around 12psi,

Crawling over rocks i would go lower but 3psi and 80-100 km/h is crazy...

even 60 km p a rutted hill can be scary at 3psi... but can knock a tyre off a rim at 15 psi still..


I run Tubes inside my Beadlock rims, never goes down and never get any 'leaks'

Yeah good point, i forget about the faster stuff as the old 3Y is flat getting to 60kmh

I went to pirate some great info on different types of bead locks from home made to of the shelf great instructional photos to of the bear rim then on mounting the tyre then the outer rim Im of to make my own $125 sounds real cheap but zero dollars and do it in work time with there equipment and steel sounds even better

the bolts dont go through the rim, they go through the outer ring and then through the inner ring, there is a gap behind the inner ring of an inch or so to the rim, not only does this give you room for the nuts but is a great place to store excess mud.
BTW, my inner rings have an thread inserted through it and the bolts are flush with the outer face of the outer ring
I can also use the rims without the outside beadlock ring by mounting the tyre in the normal way, handy for fitting a normal tyre like a bfg as your spare...non directional.

duncan wrote:I went to pirate some great info on different types of bead locks from home made to of the shelf great instructional photos to of the bear rim then on mounting the tyre then the outer rim Im of to make my own $125 sounds real cheap but zero dollars and do it in work time with there equipment and steel sounds even better

Duncan wanna make me a set

Chris

cbr wrote:

duncan wrote:I went to pirate some great info on different types of bead locks from home made to of the shelf great instructional photos to of the bear rim then on mounting the tyre then the outer rim Im of to make my own $125 sounds real cheap but zero dollars and do it in work time with there equipment and steel sounds even better

Duncan wanna make me a set

Chris

ill give duncan $60 a wheel shipped

Drafty wrote:My opinion and this doesn't count for much is if your not going to run under 15psi just throw tubes in the tires, that is what i have in my claws and have run them down to 12 psi, drive occordingly and you shouldn't have any problems.

i probly wouldn't recommend this as if you do manage to separate the tyre from the rin on the internal bead...crap gets in most likely wont get removed prior to reinflating the tyre..thus a puncture then happens..

Secondly if the tyre does happen to slip...tube is history

Pos I have just finished welding my first rim that Im going to try did you get the wheel balanced or spun up on a lave after you welded the rings on if not how are they on the road at speed as here in WA I have to travel 1 1/2 hours to get to the hills

Pos would not have been any faster than about 30kmh since he fitted these beadlocks.It is a trailer queen. These beadlocks were not machined after in a lathe but they do the job for an offroad rig just fine.

Just finished my first one was easier than I thought it was going to be the tyre seemd to centralise on the rim up against the retaining bolts both rings were made as a pair and are concentric I machined them on a lathe
I just welded them on using 2.5 gp rods on a ark welder put it on the truck and went for a drive didnt feel out of balance at 100ks will fit to my centapeeds and air down and see how they go I used 32 10mm high tennsil cap head screws torked down to 15ft/lbs got that of pirate when they were doing a write up on some bead locks and for those of use that are into poseing not wheelin they look way cool if anyone wants some sizes or drawings give me a hollar and save your self some money

duncan wrote:Just finished my first one was easier than I thought it was going to be the tyre seemd to centralise on the rim up against the retaining bolts both rings were made as a pair and are concentric I machined them on a lathe
I just welded them on using 2.5 gp rods on a ark welder put it on the truck and went for a drive didnt feel out of balance at 100ks will fit to my centapeeds and air down and see how they go I used 32 10mm high tennsil cap head screws torked down to 15ft/lbs got that of pirate when they were doing a write up on some bead locks and for those of use that are into poseing not wheelin they look way cool if anyone wants some sizes or drawings give me a hollar and save your self some money

Well done dunc!

Pretty easy really