Outer Limits 4x4 Board

well guys ive been thinkin bout doin a 4 link rear for the lwb and spoa at the front. my plan is to run 32" simex ets, wat i want to no is all the nasty stuff like angles and lenghts i should make evrything . i dont plan on makin it any longer than it already is. i have acess to makin evrything, but need the important info. . so if any 1 out there can help me out? (maybe sam?) i would be much indebted...

graeme..

Way to go mate hopefully ill beat you to it with the patrol

search search search

Just done 3 link rear... rides like my wifes corolla now with better travel to boot!

redzook wrote:search search search

What are you talking about redzook you asked the same thing a few weeks ago in the general tech pagers.........(does that give you a hint of what to search bazooked?)

Try Pirate as well as i've heard their is some good write ups on their.

Whay have you decided 4 link Not saying it's good bad or otherwise just curious

I've been following this 'one' link (just a name) idea on pirate and I like its simplicity and driveshaft protection. If you're diy'ing it this could be an option

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283119
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235977 (long 7 page thread but well worth the time)

Why bother going to all that trouble to fit a tyre that will fit easily enough with a spring and body lift. Seems like a lot of work for no real benefit.

grimbo wrote:Why bother going to all that trouble to fit a tyre that will fit easily enough with a spring and body lift. Seems like a lot of work for no real benefit.

His old rig is yj springs spoa with 32's anyway. Maybe he just wants to be a ramp queen

thats what I thought, I can't see the 4 link working any better than his current setup yet it gets into a whole lot more headache.

talking about a 1 link setup look what happens whan it all goes pear shaped

What does the second pic show, apart from a bent diff?

the second pic shows i should have added this is what a one link looks like before going pear shaped

grimbo wrote:the second pic shows i should have added this is what a one link looks like before going pear shaped

That makes more sense. But that diff still looks bent!

Also isn't a panhard rod a link? sorry i'm coil illerate

I wouldn't have a clue I like the pretty pictures

Yes pictures are very pretty!
I'm glad i'm not the only one who doesn't have a clue. From what I have seen coils are better at keeping wheels down on the ground. I have compared the zook, hilux leave spring cars to wrangler, nissan shorty coilies over the same tracks.

Granted the zook has a really short wheel base on the 33's and is more likely to lift in deep ruts

either way, i reckon he should go with it, and take pics n stuff so we can see what he does and learn!!! only way to go forward in mods

DeWsE wrote:

redzook wrote:search search search

What are you talking about redzook you asked the same thing a few weeks ago in the general tech pagers.........(does that give you a hint of what to search bazooked?)

Try Pirate as well as i've heard their is some good write ups on their.

if you have a look at the thread i drew up a link setup on a lwb

and i just asked for people who have down one would they do any different. my roll axis was to steep so i flattened it!

so now all ive gotta do is convert all the measurements from the drawin to real life and i should have a well built (wont hop or bounce) and well mannered on road

if he searched he would have found pics measurements all on a LWB frame

IMHO leave the rear leaf'd and 4 link the front. EVERY link rear/leaf front car I have ever seen has had absolutely 'orrible balance. Roll stiffness drops massively in the rear so the front no longer flexes until the rear has gone to full articulation by which time the car is often trying to fall over. When climbing it is even worse.

Link the front properly, run an adjustable sway bar on the front and tune it until the car is nicely balanced.

By the time you sway barred (?) a rear link conversion until the roll stiffness matched the front with spoa leaves, you will find that you will have less travel than you had with leaves.

Ps I am working on a "1 link" for the front (and maybe rear) of my Zuk. One advantage of the 1 link on the front is that the suspension compresses as power is applied, very handy for climbing. Unfortunately, the rear will jack under power with a 1 link, but it must be able to be manageable, Unimogs run a "1 link" front and rear and have done for one million years.

PS Ihink the problems with the green car in grimbo's photos are more to di woth COG and uncontrolled travel rather than the use of 1 links. Mogs, tall as they are, are not renowned for instability on wacky angles.

I do like the look of the simplicity of the 1 link. I have some pics somewhere that show a nice setup. The link to the chassis uses heim joint at chassis end and the mounts on the diff attach to the leaf spring mounts ala leaf springs. Nice and simple. It would be a nice solution for lengthening the wheelbase on mine, also the large gusseting would act as an effective skidplate for the diff

mmmmm pretty patterns cut into the boggers.....

Gwagensteve wrote:IMHO leave the rear leaf'd and 4 link the front. EVERY link rear/leaf front car I have ever seen has had absolutely 'orrible balance. Roll stiffness drops massively in the rear so the front no longer flexes until the rear has gone to full articulation by which time the car is often trying to fall over. When climbing it is even worse.

Some thing we saw on overkills first rig. But it made good photo's for his company advertisment

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... suspension

Thanks redzook for the link...

Can you email the pic through please.

Here are some more pics, I like this desert racer style link setup





link to a feature article
http://www.jpmagazine.com/featuredvehicles/47418/

thanks for the links guys but no pics came up, aint got alot of time on my hands to search so i new the apprentices would . so grimbo wat ur sayin is i wouldnt be any better of than my current set up?. i think if it is set up right with the right shocks and springs it will work quite well. tell me if im wrong, also the front end of my zook tends to flex better than the rear. the only reason im doin it is because i want to , and am lookin 4 sumthin different which might be an advantage in a lot of situations..

The one like setup looks like it would work very well if you want a simple system that works....lots of good info in those pirate threads. Do the one link setup and give us some feedback on how it goes

bazooked wrote:thanks for the links guys but no pics came up, aint got alot of time on my hands to search so i new the apprentices would . so grimbo wat ur sayin is i wouldnt be any better of than my current set up?. i think if it is set up right with the right shocks and springs it will work quite well. tell me if im wrong, also the front end of my zook tends to flex better than the rear. the only reason im doin it is because i want to , and am lookin 4 sumthin different which might be an advantage in a lot of situations..

a well setup link suspension will work a shit load bteeer then a well setup leaf suspension

what I was getting at when i said what was the point was that you weren't lengthening your wheelbase, you already have 32s fitted so you don't the link setup to fit tyres of choice.

I don't neccessarily agree a well setup link will work a shit load better than a well setup leaf suspension. It all comes down needs. You can get a very flexy, load capable leaf suspension.

The desert race truck setup in the above pics allows for masses of droop and compression but not much articulation but could be adapted to allow for more articulation

where would a well setup leaf spring work better then a well setup link suspension?

Hey can you post the link design up, the pic's don't work on the other link

grimbo wrote:Why bother going to all that trouble to fit a tyre that will fit easily enough with a spring and body lift. Seems like a lot of work for no real benefit.

Why not a coil setup will be a lot more comfortable to drive and will probably have more travel.As well you will be able to fit the tyre with NO body lift which is a much better idea. I say go for it.
If you need some ideas on the link setup give us a call.
SAM