Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey Guys,

Thinking of building another RIG/POS for offroading and lowering the current RIG/POS down to the ground. As the paint is still pretty and the bar work is polished alloy and stuff, making a bit of a Cruiser out of a Cruiser.

How would I go about either swapping the front diff, or chopping and modifying the current diff so that it does not have the centre housing anymore. When lowering it a fair amount it would hit on the sump of the possible future 1FZ-FET that might go in it.

Is it possible to get a solid swap so I can still use my leaf springs, or would you just go for an IFS swap. Money would be a little tight for this one so if a SAS is possible from a car that has no front drive that would be easier I guess.

How would anyone else do this? (Even though no-one else would come up with this shite)


Meldge

Hrm... stick your head underneath a 2WD hilux or rodeo, steal all the bits u need and start welding?

Find a rear end totalled prado, and swap all the bits over, letting u keep 4WD for crawling massive mall gutters

Or buy a not so bling, but still good car and swap all your bling bits over and turn your current truck into a trail rig

I thought about those bloody gutters to you know...

Nah, my current rig is still way to clean to go trail.
I have a custom rollcage, and want to keep it a 5 seater. The trail rig will prolly be the same model car, (unless i decide to go coils) but be a 2 seater with a different roll bar setup.

Are 2WD Luxs IFS or do they have a Solid Axle in the front, Old ones might hey? Can anyone tell me of any models that might have the same width Diff as an 86' MWB FRP TOP Cruiser?
I want the studs to be at almost the exact same width.

I can't find any of this info.


Meldge

Meldge wrote:I thought about those bloody gutters to you know...

Nah, my current rig is still way to clean to go trail.
I have a custom rollcage, and want to keep it a 5 seater. The trail rig will prolly be the same model car, (unless i decide to go coils) but be a 2 seater with a different roll bar setup.

Are 2WD Luxs IFS or do they have a Solid Axle in the front, Old ones might hey? Can anyone tell me of any models that might have the same width Diff as an 86' MWB FRP TOP Cruiser?
I want the studs to be at almost the exact same width.

I can't find any of this info.


Meldge

all 2wd hiluxs where IFS style

bubs wrote:

Meldge wrote:I thought about those bloody gutters to you know...

Are 2WD Luxs IFS or do they have a Solid Axle in the front, Old ones might hey?

I can't find any of this info.


Meldge

all 2wd hiluxs where IFS style

Damn, so i guess i'd have to have my current housing cut and tubed. That would have to be engineered though wouldn't it?


Meldge

I have been told that I can get my standard housing ends cut off the pumpkin and have a tube welded in place instead.

Would like to get that info verified though, can anyone help.

This is probably useless info for you but the 40 series has a 2WD version called the FJ42. The front axle width is close to the 70 series, you can use early 70 series swivels on it. This is a pic of the front axle somebody sent me:


Dave

Thanks Beanz...

What with the break in the middle of the diff though, does that mean it is a converted 4WD diff to start with?

The other option would be IFS aswell I suppose, depends how low i can get it to go.

use an early F truck or bedford van 2wd front end, they run a solid axle and tapper up about 4-5 inches so would get the jigga low.


are you turboing the 1fz?


NICK

Meldge wrote:Thanks Beanz...

What with the break in the middle of the diff though, does that mean it is a converted 4WD diff to start with?

The break is just an engineering convention that not the entire length is shown (i.e. the picture is not proportional to actual size). It looks like it was made in the factory as it has its own part number. There is also a block off plate that fits into the transfer case front output housing.

Dave

Thanks Nick, I would like to turbo it, only concern is how light the sucker is now without the roof. You could make a lot of power from a turbo 1FZ so it could be interesting to drive.

Thanks Beanz2, but I would like to if at all possible, get away from using the transfer case anyway, (if possible, gearing would then probably have to change, don't know what the high range gearing is).

If I don't use the tranny in this truck, it can go in the next one as a dual tranny setup, apparently they are the ducks nuts.

Can anyone tell me what gearing would change if I ran straight from the Gearbox and not through the transfer case, and if different, what ratios I should then run (keeping in mind it would be a 1FZ Turbo, not a diesel)...


Meldge

Meldge wrote:Hey Guys,

Thinking of building another RIG/POS for offroading and lowering the current RIG/POS down to the ground. As the paint is still pretty and the bar work is polished alloy and stuff, making a bit of a Cruiser out of a Cruiser.

How would I go about either swapping the front diff, or chopping and modifying the current diff so that it does not have the centre housing anymore. When lowering it a fair amount it would hit on the sump of the possible future 1FZ-FET that might go in it.

Is it possible to get a solid swap so I can still use my leaf springs, or would you just go for an IFS swap. Money would be a little tight for this one so if a SAS is possible from a car that has no front drive that would be easier I guess.

How would anyone else do this? (Even though no-one else would come up with this shite)


Meldge

What you are refering too is called a solid front axle and Toyota Stout Utes which was like a heavy duty 2WD Hilux used this type of front end and i think it was a drop axle as well. They were made from the 70's to the early 80's and as far as width goes a 4WD leaf sprung hilux and 40,55&75 cruisers are within 10mm in width.

Wally

Meldge wrote:Thanks Nick, I would like to turbo it, only concern is how light the sucker is now without the roof. You could make a lot of power from a turbo 1FZ so it could be interesting to drive.

Thanks Beanz2, but I would like to if at all possible, get away from using the transfer case anyway, (if possible, gearing would then probably have to change, don't know what the high range gearing is).

If I don't use the tranny in this truck, it can go in the next one as a dual tranny setup, apparently they are the ducks nuts.

Can anyone tell me what gearing would change if I ran straight from the Gearbox and not through the transfer case, and if different, what ratios I should then run (keeping in mind it would be a 1FZ Turbo, not a diesel)...


Meldge

transfer in hi range is 1:1.

rip the gearbox out and put in a supra 5 spd. the gearing is better for on road. and you might aswell just put a 2jz-gte in too.

so you should just get a half cut with a manual gearbox. and whack all that in.

383FJ45 wrote:transfer in hi range is 1:1.

rip the gearbox out and put in a supra 5 spd. the gearing is better for on road. and you might aswell just put a 2jz-gte in too.

so you should just get a half cut with a manual gearbox. and whack all that in.

I did think about that, just got to work out prices on it all, not too pricey are they. Probably cheaper than getting a 1FZ and Box.

What capacity is a 2JZ, wouldn't a 1FZ Turbo go a lot harder, or jsut be harder to setup?

I have not looked at prices yet, figured that it would be around the same price (1FZ a little more exy) so if similarly priced, thought a 1FZ would have bigger capacity (4.5l) and therefore go harder with more torque.

What would be better? What would be cheaper? Two separate questions.


Meldge

or wheel it like it was meant to be, and pimp in a supra

bad_religion_au wrote:or wheel it like it was meant to be, and pimp in a supra

Don't you worry, it will be a pimpin cruiser
Want to build another for wheeling, that if rolled I don't mind as much...