Outer Limits 4x4 Board

After getting under the car and having a look around. I think i may have broken an engine mount....whats the best way to confirm this? and has anyone replaced theirs and at what cost?

Pop the hood, start the car and get someone to rev it suddenly and forcefully while you watch the mount. If there is a break in it the mount will separate and you will see movement of the whloe engine.

If you have done a mount it will most likely be on the passenger side of the car as this is the side that lifts as the enging revs. There was a really good thread a while back by Clint i think who outlined how to make a mount with seatbelt around it to stop it flexing too far and breaking.

Otherwise there is a place at thornleigh near me that makes custom engine mounts - Noltec Engineering- Out of their compound, but not sure of prices.

Oh, and make sure the car is in neutral with the handbrake on...

Whilst your checking that, just double check the gearbox mount aswell.
If you have broken an engine mount, there is the possibility that the engine has jumped around enough to take that mount out aswell.

Here is another thread about broken engine mounts.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=286953&highlight=#286953
I had pics of the strap i made, but of course ya can't see em at the moment. I can e-mail them if u like.

Hey again,

The mount that I broke was the left one like croz said. When it was broken, the gear stick moved heaps to the right when accelerating. Lift the bonnet up and get someone to just engage the clutch in first with the handbrake on to put some load on the engine and see if it picks up. When I was checking mine i found it hard to see the movement, but I could tell much easier from the gearstick movement when driving. Lincorp have the parts. Like I said in my other message to you about $80 I think. (thats genuine)

just found out i broke mine also... passenger side
repco = $70
its just a pity they aren't build like the charade engine mounts. in that case, there is a metal loop welded to the body of the car, and in that loop is the rubber block. the engine is mounted on a thick bolt running through the block and is therefore less likely to break.
ahh well.
on with the seatbelt mod.

the othe rway is to jack the engine up from teh sump. The mount will seperate.

HeathGQ wrote:the other way is to jack the engine up from teh sump. The mount will seperate.

Be very careful trying that one!!! You'll end up with a dented sump and could stuff your oil pickup inside. The bellhousing would probably be a safer place (or on the engine side of the mount)

thats a possibility, but I had done it quite a few times without probs. But just to be safe,



Don't Jack Off The Sump

HeathGQ wrote:Don't Jack Off The Sump

remember kids.. hes speaking from his own personal experience....

What the hell?!?

A Yank with a sense of humour!?!

I have dented a Charade sump from doing what Heath suggested (was changing engine mounts.)

Just some more info - the Repco part number for the passenger side (LHS) engine mount is MT8192.

Are they much differant from the Daihatsu ones, have they changed them at all to stop them tearing apart?
Can ya post a pic please.

Am very interested to see how they go.

It looks very similar- possibly looks like it would flex a bit more? Hard to tell as I haven't got the old one out yet. Will take some pics before I fit it.

I'll also be calling in at Clarke Rubber on the way home to get some seat belt webbing.

Well the mount is in- my old one was like everyone else's, sheared off near the metal.

The Repco one was virtually identical. The metal it was made of was probably a bit thinner and the locating dowel didn't line up with the part that bolts to the block ..... Ended up drilling out the hole it locates into to get it to fit.

The rubber block seems to be a bit thinner and taller- which could mean it will last longer as it will possibly flex more before breaking?

Can post a pic if you want (need to download off camera and resize), but you'd be lucky to notice any difference.

yep.. done mine too now. seat belt mod works a treat.
A quick ring around of the wreckers in melb netted my a RHS mount in good nick for $35. They are all the same, right hand, left hand etc. I told the guy what I wanted to do, and he gave me the seatbelt for nothing.
Got it from 4x4 place in dandenong, after looking in the yellowpages.
cheep cheep!

It would be better IMO to just fit a new original Daihatsu engine mount.
I remember it being about $77 each about 3 years ago.

whats the procedure for installing/removing engine mounts?

undo bolts to mounts
lift up engine
remove old mounts
put old ones in
lower engine
tighten mounts
test

i got no idea really

Spartacus wrote:whats the procedure for installing/removing engine mounts?

undo bolts to mounts
lift up engine
remove old mounts
put old ones in
lower engine
tighten mounts
test

i got no idea really

Yes, you do have the idea.

Just be careful not to over lift the engine though. You might then over stress or tear your gearbox mount.

you could always undo the two bolts holding the gearbox mounts on just to be sure.

Are Rocky engine mounts really dodgy? coz theres seems to be a lot people saying that had to get new ones.

Flynn

dodgey? no... more like the engine is soo torquey it has a rep for ripping engine mounts to shreds. go the hatsu!

Any chance someone can post pics of the mounts with the seatbelt wrapped around?

\

Its not my picture but i have it long time in my feroza gallery collection

Thanks for that. Makes a lot of sense really. Any tips on undoing the bolts for the drivers side mount? I bought a drivers side one too cause I was told it was too soft so id like to change it but getting access to it isnt easy.

Well I got the mounts changed. I did both sides. The passengers side was broken so Im glad I did it! The drivers side wasnt but changed it anyway. Will keep the old one of that as a spare.

But did anyone else find that the passenger side one didnt line up to the bolt holes after changing it? I had to lower it down and use some force to get it to line up while being careful not to put undue pressure on the mount.

But its done and it seems to be fine. I've got the gearbox out now though so cant test it! Looking forward to it though!

The engine alignment of the Feroza is somehow to the right of the engine bay. Thats why when you brake the passenger or the driver mount you have to chech for any cracks on the passenger side engine.

Well that explains why I had to replace the rocker cover! Thanks! The front corner on the passenger side had a crack through it...no doubt from the broken engine mount!

Anything else I should look for while im at it?

Before I threw away the stock mounts for good ( broke too many ) apart from seatbelt webbing, i put a small length of stainless steel wire rope horizontally from the transmission to the cross member.

When the transmission mount breaks the torque will more the transmission to the passengers side ( RHD ) and the uni's will start o knuckle out with unpleasant results..

It wont stop breakages but it will minimise the damage particularly if your in the middle of climbing something steep and stopping is not an option.

If you look at a Suzuki Vitara for example you will instantly see that the Vit runs a torque control bush to resist the twisting effort created by the transfer - something the Feroza doesn't have.

Since changing to different mounts all around and fitting a torque reaction bush there's been no further issues and I'm running a crawl ratio of 168:1 not 35:1 as stock so there's heaps more load generated.

So its a combination of crappy mounts AND no torque control bush that does the damage IMO.