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F*#ckin Supercheap Ezyouts :mad:
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 11:55 am
by TuffRR
I had a broken bolt in the valley cover end cap on my block. No probs i thought, just use an ezyout to get it out.
Well now I have a broken ezyout inside a broken bolt.
What makes this a problem is that the ezyout must be high tensile which is making trying to drill it out near useless. Because its in the block, i also have to be careful not to be too messy with the drilling.
Anyone got an idea what i can do???? (other than go back to Supercheap to get my 13 bucks back!)
Re: F*#ckin Supercheap Ezyouts :mad:
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 12:16 pm
by hottiemonster
TuffRR wrote:(other than go back to Supercheap to get my 13 bucks back!)
You mean SUPERSHIT
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 1:01 pm
by -Mick-
That's a tricky one
How far will the drill bit actually go
Would another easy out get it ( a decent one )
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 1:02 pm
by Big Red Toy
lots of lube and a drill in a stand or mill is the only way, also heat might help. Might have to take the car to somebody to get it done if your no comfortable doing it yourself
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 1:23 pm
by TuffRR
hmmm, doesn't sound good. Are there drill bits available which are more suited to harder steel?
I'd rather not have to take it anywhere, coz that would involve getting a trailer, paying for labour etc etc and i'm trying to do this the CB way!
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 1:27 pm
by Hoonz
haha thats what u get for buying super shit
find a specialised hardware store and get some tungstun(spelling) drill bits
go slow and use a cutting compound (teraflex)
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 1:41 pm
by chimpboy
Hoonz wrote:haha thats what u get for buying super shit
find a specialised hardware store and get some tungstun(spelling) drill bits
go slow and use a cutting compound (teraflex)
Yes. Try to start with a smallish drill bit and keep it as centred as possible.
But first...
Depending on whether any of the ezyout thing is sticking out of the bolt, you may be able to use a centre punch and hammer to unscrew it - remember this will be turning it clockwise!
If it moves at all, it should get easier and easier.
And if you can get a small hole in it at all, you might be able to use a tap to unscrew it - screw the tap in and once it's run out of room to move, it will start unscrewing the ezy out...
Lotsa things to try before you give up!
Good luck. It's sucky.
Jason
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 1:46 pm
by RUFF
Do you have a welder? If so carefully weld a bolt to the broken Easy Out. Then while its still hot you should be able to turn it clockwise and undo it.
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 2:09 pm
by RV80
there are guys around that do mobile thread
repairs. for around $30 to $40 a bolt. let your
fingers do the walking.
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 3:57 pm
by TuffRR
Went to Bunnings and got a titanium drill bit (didn't have tungsten). It has not even made a dent into it.
No part of the bolt/ezyout is external to the block so unfortantely welding a nut on to it wont work.
RV - any idea what these mobile thread guys would be under. Strangely, there is not a category in the yellow pages titled "i f*cked up, help me (or thread repair etc).
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 4:12 pm
by revin
Look under heli coil and thread repairers
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 4:24 pm
by TuffRR
Nuthin relevant in the yellow pages or google under those terms. Perhaps I should just scrap the 4.4 and put in a 4.6!
f*#ckin supercheap
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 5:04 pm
by LowRanger
you might look in the yellow pages under fasteners/industrial,I just checked in the Sydney yellow pages and found a few thread repair guys
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 5:11 pm
by big red
have you tried to use a small pointed grinding stone [or a couple of dozen of them] to grind it out.
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 5:12 pm
by RV80
what's your location
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 5:18 pm
by TuffRR
[quote="RV":I'm gayer than aids!]what's your location
[/quote:I'm gayer than aids!]
Up shit creek.
Melbourne.
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 5:29 pm
by chimpboy
My advice in this situation is to forget about it for a couple of days then come back to it.
You'll be able to fix it or get it fixed. Just get some time away from it because you're getting hyper-frustrated. Happens to all of us with shit like that.
Jason
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 5:29 pm
by RV80
Up shit creek.
try ringing a couple of car dealerships
tomorrow and ask them. there has to be
someone doing that shit down there. if not there's
a job for someone.
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 5:49 pm
by TuffRR
I'm going to take Chimpboy's advice and forget about it for tonight. To ease the pain, I'll drink a beer for every drill bit that i broke.
Its gonna be a big night!!!!
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 6:04 pm
by ludacris
Go to supercheap and show them what there product has done then query them on what they are going to do to fix it.
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 6:10 pm
by bru21
a cheap alternative to the tungsten drill bits are the masonary drill bits with tungsten tips. just grind the tip so it is like a regular bit. as the tip is brazed in you need to be careful no to get it too hot or the tip will drop out so be careful to keep it cold when grinding and drilling.
the titanium bits are not anything special just ordanary bits titaniun nitride coated which means nothing when the tip chips off slowely.
cheers mate
bru
f*#cking supercheap
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 6:17 pm
by LowRanger
I just had a look online in the Melbourne yellow pages and found these 2 places that may be able to help you out
Thread Doctor The
4 Floral Gardns Narre Warren South VIC 3805
ph: 0419 507 633
Recoil
20 Stamford Rd Oakleigh VIC 3166
ph: (03) 9567 3377
Cheers
Wayne
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 6:34 pm
by TuffRR
Thanks guys.
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 6:35 pm
by J Top
It does not need to be proud to weld a nut to it but if it is below flush I would have more success with a mig then a stick.
I still feel this is your best advice.
J Top
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 6:42 pm
by Kev80
I have also found S/cheap to have crap tools, how many Allan keys & 12mm sockets have i now broken.
The most suprising one was the 10mm open ender spanner that broke while undoing a brake line on my Cruiser.........do you belive that ???
f*#cking supercheap
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 6:47 pm
by LowRanger
Unfortunately,with tools you usually get what you pay for.I suggest that if you are going to buy easy outs or taps and dies etc that you consider spending a little more initially and buy something like Starrett or Snap On.And no I have no affiliation with either.But I have been in the trade for over 30 years and still have ste same tools I started with.
Regards
wayne
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 7:13 pm
by Utemad
Kev80 wrote:I have also found S/cheap to have crap tools, how many Allan keys & 12mm sockets have i now broken.
The most suprising one was the 10mm open ender spanner that broke while undoing a brake line on my Cruiser.........do you belive that ???
I bought an 18mm combination spanner from SuperCheap the other day for $1.
I have bought Sidchrome spanners the same size for around $20 mark bit less maybe.
Something tells me there is a quality difference between the two
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 7:43 pm
by Rainbow Warrior
Ezi Outs, taps & dies are prescision critically manufactured tools, and basically be worth zero if not manufactured otherwise, $10 saved now could cost $200 to fix
A cheap spanner may be good for the kids bikes, emergency toolkit or fixing the mower, and at worst mincing your knuckles.
I could have spent $50 each on tail lights, but replacing smashed $15 Supercheap ones is more economical.
I still use a Supercheap lump hammer at work & camping, no problems.
I wouldn't bother with their electric tools though.
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 8:09 pm
by chimpboy
Rainbow Warrior wrote:Ezi Outs, taps & dies are prescision critically manufactured tools, and basically be worth zero if not manufactured otherwise, $10 saved now could cost $200 to fix
A cheap spanner may be good for the kids bikes, emergency toolkit or fixing the mower, and at worst mincing your knuckles.
I could have spent $50 each on tail lights, but replacing smashed $15 Supercheap ones is more economical.
I still use a Supercheap lump hammer at work & camping, no problems.
I wouldn't bother with their electric tools though.
Yeah, the trick is to know what to skimp on.
Re: f*#cking supercheap
Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 8:26 pm
by Kev80
LowRanger wrote: I have been in the trade for over 30 years and still have ste same tools I started with.
What about all the tools the apprentices lost ? (left in engine bays etc)