Big Red Toy wrote:well seeming there are no pictures looking through threads is almost useless.
Ask for pics to be emailed !
I will shortly begin updating the "**__ V8Patroll __** thread in the members section and reloading all the pics to the relevant posts, unfortunately there are weeks of photo resizing and uploading to be done so it will be a slow process to begin with.
Big Red Toy wrote:What should I do first off???
*Rotate front axle like what was done to screwy's?And by how much?
Chaos4x4 was doing an "exchange front diff" for around the $350 mark + freight, there are pics at their website ..... checkout the Bible or
http://www.chaos4x4.com.au/I have tried various castor angles and believe that for the majority of users 7 - 9 degrees castor is the go and depends slightly on the engine weight sitting above the front end swell as whether the rig has power steering or not and whether the power steering has been re ratioed or not.
Big Red Toy wrote:*What is the best way to do the steering?What do I have to do...
Again have a look at the Chaos 4x4 site, the steering setup they do is what ya want but it can be achieved for much less money, you'll have to ask around ( ppl like Dr frankenstien did his own arms etc )
http://www.chaos4x4.com.au/http://www.offroadindustries.com/steering.htmhttp://store.snakeracing.com.au/cache/i ... l?cache=noBig Red Toy wrote:*and also I would like to do a shackle reversal on the front, what are the advantages / disadvantages etc..
Again the bible has the good word here, research my friend and then make up ya own mind, personally its not worth the hassle.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=22835Big Red Toy wrote:*moving spring mounts????
as above
Big Red Toy wrote:*Should I keep my bodylift??? it is 3" after all, but fuel tank and side rails are made to suit
The 3" lift combined with an SOA will allow you to fit and clear 38"swampers. Besides as you said everything is already made to suit the lift you have so why have the added hassle of having to get a new B/bar & side steps ?
Big Red Toy wrote:I plan on doing this at the start of next year, but if I could start working on parts like steering now then I might
Its the odd stuff that costs......
Extended brake lines----------------------- allow $160 for the 2 of em
Lengthened & rebalanced tailshafts ------ allow $150 per shaft
Crossmember modifications --------------- allow $150 for a "stretched unit"
then threes the ........
new spring perches, new shocker mounts, extended swaybar bolts/tubes,
U bolts, self centring steering damper, 4 new shockers to suit, & a set of new 35" tyres !!!
For things like your brake lines get to a wreckers & grab an old set then they can be lengthened to suit and stored long before you start the project, Its the brakeline ends that the guy will want so that when they are lengthened they will bolt straight back in once the SOA is done.
U bolts are also an item to get at the wreckers.
The tailshaft lengthening can also be under way once you have the rig sitting back on the diffs, here's a tip ..... get a rear shaft from a LWB MQ and have it shortened ( shortening a shaft is cheaper then lengthening one

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FIND AN ENGINEER NOW
Getting it engineered will be a lot easier if you have good open communications with an engineer well before you start. He will no doubt give good advice as to the "Hows & Whys" of the way things should be done. It will also make his job easier when it comes time to get it engineered and therefore cost much less in both time and money.
Kingy