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Gearing for 80 series

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 9:23 am
by Pesky Pete
Now that I am running bigger tyres (36's) on my 80 series (standard 1hz) I am keent o do something to help turn them a bit better. All is good till we get to the steep stuff, then I'm valve bouncing in 1st to get enough wheel speed and not loose revs. Second just isnt an option. On road, I am running 32's

Anyway, the question is what have other 80 series owners done since there is SFA around in the way of transfer gearing. I was looking at changing R&P but wanted to know what ratio's people have gone to in 80 series running 36's.

Another option is to turbo the motor possibly.

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 9:26 am
by 83 lux

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 11:15 am
by DNA Off Road
Pete,

It all depends on your driving style and how much serious off road you actually do. I recommend you go the turbo as it will have a dramatic change to the way the vehicle performs both on and off the road. If you can get away without changing gears in the HP front diff that’s good because they can be weak and the lower the ratio you go [ie the higher the numbers] the weaker it will be. With a heavy truck like the 80 the front centre is unfortunately the weakest link with bigger tyres and hard driving.

Some HZJ79s run 4.3s – might be worth your while looking that as an option.

By the way I’m running 4.88s with 37s – one centre gone already but I am going to give it another go before I go back to the drawing board….

For interest, I saw on Dave Metcalf’s XI page that Peter Stirling has broken his fourth. They are 4.11 [I think] but he does drive hard most of the time.

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 1:37 pm
by dow50r
Hi
i ran some 5.28's for a while, and the low range crawling was awsome....100km/hr was about 3000 rpm with 35's though, so a nice set of 38's would have made it standard gearing again. With 36's id say 4.88's would be best, however, if u look at where you are having problems, which is on road, a turbo would more than accomodate for the extra tyre diameter, and probably cost thesame as the gears.
Andrew

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 5:07 pm
by Mad Cruiser
Hey Pete,

I guess you've seen my thread by now.....

A lot of the votes were swayed to gears, others are saying turbo it first then see how it goes.

Have you thought about putting a part time kit in ? probably would help with the bigger tyres.

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 5:42 pm
by RV80
my clutch is shuddering like shit since i put my part-time
kit in a couple of weeks ago. it does improve on road driving
ability out of sight. but bear in mind you have to give it
heaps to get going. i'm going to look at doing gears
shortly. i've only got 33's. although mine's the twin cam.

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2004 8:25 pm
by GM
I have 35" tyres and the Dynamic turbo made all the differance. on the road 2300 reves is 100 kmph. In the bush it is great.1 gear low is still very low. most climbs are in low2

turbo

Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2004 8:30 am
by Pesky Pete
Thanks dow5or. I am a bit worried about the driveability on road with diff gears. I was thinking about going to 4.56's but when running 32's or 33's on road (Sometimes living in QLD sucks) I think the motor would be screaming. If I could run even 36's on road legally I would go for the 4.56's I thought I was gunna get done the other day on my way to the traks when a cop sat next to me a t the lights and checked out the swampers long and hard. i was glad when the lights changed and I turned left.

Mad Cruiser
Already part time. I have a standard model 80 series so dont have to worry about this mod. As a general rule, I dont drive around on my swampers unless going to the tracks and they are close. Otherwise I drive on road tyres monday to friday.

I think that after reading your thread and the responses here, plus soem research, I will go the Turbo first, then if it is not good enough look at going for 4.3 diff ratios as a compromise which will give better offroad performance without affecting on road.

Thanks for the opinions guys.

Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2004 11:02 am
by dow50r
Gday
Keep an eye out in the t/p for a pair of 105 series diffs complete,(4.3) that way, you can roll em in and out, they bolt straight up, they are beefed up (toyota add) but you then will need some 100 series GXL rims, (which are cheaper than 80 series ones)
Andrew

Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2004 4:18 pm
by 80diesel4play
And teh 100 series runs a different stud pattern... buger.

Go boost first - I've just put 37's on my part time pov pack and hell yeah I need a turbo. :D

If you need reliablilty then keep standard gearing and think about some other tasty treats - I've had word that Yota Japan's Transfergear maker has a reduction gearing set available - just have to find them and buy 30 sets or so....

I'll be doing that after boost next. Don't like the idea of Bundy Ratios under my bus. Overall standard = less cost, stronger and easier to replace bits. Instead of new Panhard sets when getting mine lifted - moved the mounts to accomodate and keep stock parts!!!!

37's have been squeezed under with 2" body and 3" coils only - no cutting anything !! YES!! :D :D

Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2004 10:55 am
by Pesky Pete
80diesel4play wrote:
37's have been squeezed under with 2" body and 3" coils only - no cutting anything !! YES!! :D :D


I've got 3 inch coils with 30 mm spacers on top, no body lift and fit the 36's no cutting. No scrub either with 10.5" wide swampers.

The Swampers would have to be the best money I have ever spent on the vehicle. I am going to go the turbo route and will keep an eye out for the gearset you mentioned. If you find anything out, let me know. $$$ permitting I'd be up for a set for sure.