weber fixes.

Post by **built4thrashing** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 9:43 pm

who runs a weber on their 4x4? what have you done to stop the sugested stalling on inclines / declines??

Post by **dumbdunce** » Tue Sep 28, 2004 10:16 am

many years ago I remember modifying a weber on a zook to improve angle performance. the details are fuzzy, but it involved sealing the top of the fuel bowl to prevent sloshing at high angles, and lowering the float level a tiny bit. also the main jets were replaced with (I think) bigger (richer) ones to help with lean out on steep downhills. I know we found a webpage somewhere that had pictures of which bits to block and where to drill holes and stuff but I've got no idea where to start looking now! a lot of molten solder was involved. it worked really well.

sorry can't be more help other than to say it can be done, and done right, the results are good. maybe you'll have more luck in the zook forum?

cheers

Brian

Post by **-Scott-** » Tue Sep 28, 2004 11:45 am

This will depend on the stype of Weber you have, and where the fuel leaves the bowl. I had a Solex (on a road car) with the jets at the lower front of the bowl - the first place to be left high and dry on a steep climb. I have vague recollections of hearing about short "stand-offs" to place the jets towards the middle of the bowl.

dumbdunce is right about needing to seal the top of the bowl, to stop overflow into the barrels. I've got a book on DCOEs, and it recommends (approx 10%?) heavier floats for off-road use, but I can't remember fuel level settings.

Track racers can have similar problems with high speed cornering - fuel gets thrown to one side, and starves the jets - some carbys are better than others.

And you will get people tell you they've never had a problem - they're just pussies who don't climb steep hills! :twisted:

Good luck,

Scott

Post by **built4thrashing** » Tue Sep 28, 2004 7:30 pm

thanx guys. I found the web page ya said about filling the vent outlets with soilder and drilling a 1/8th hole into the vent tube. but are their any other hints i should know?

Post by **-Scott-** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 8:37 am

I had a dig through my Weber book, but couldn't find the off-road reference. I did find a chapter on recommended layouts, and they stressed a number of times that the float bowl MUST be forward of the venturis (tricky on a DCOE...) If this isn't done the installation will have problems under acceleration and hard cornering (sort of like climbing hills and driving side slopes.)

Good luck,

Scott

Post by **dumbdunce** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 9:56 am

NJ SWB wrote:... the float bowl MUST be forward of the venturis (tricky on a DCOE...)

heh because DCOE's are the ultimate off road carbies

I would seriously consider an EFI conversion, maybe from a throttle body injected Lada or 1600 N13 pulsar. early Nissan EFI systems are also fairly easy to port but they are all multipoint so you might need to mod/build a manifold. a few more $ and hassles now but the orrfoad performance of EFI is awesome compared to carbs. maybe LPG is also an alternative but on a small engine you would never recover the cost of installation.

Post by **built4thrashing** » Wed Sep 29, 2004 7:32 pm

have thought of the EFI rout but dont have the cash to do it. (thats why i bought a suzuki) the weber seems to be a very common mod in the states and works well when set up but every one in oz bags them. prob coz they dont understand how good they can be.

Wel it looks like im gonna have to be the guniepig and do it

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weber fixes.

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