Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Might be able to pick up a complete 1992 Fairlane with the 5.0 V8.

Dellow do an adaptor to the GQ five speed.

So, if I can get the complete fairlane cheaply enough (it's got body damage), what would be the things to look out for? Known issues?

Anyone know much about the ECUs on these things? Do they need much pita input like speed sensing or feedback from the auto?

Or any URLs I could look at about these motors? Like any tweaks to do while it's on the garage floor for a little added low-cost grunt?

Jason

The ford 5l is an old tech motor but is pretty suited to a 4wd application I reckon. Good aftermarket for em too

Try the ford forums for tech answers

Any particular reason you don't want to use the auto?

(Other than the whole Ford thing, which obviously doesn't bother you... )

Inquiring minds etc.

Scott

NJ SWB wrote:Any particular reason you don't want to use the auto?

(Other than the whole Ford thing, which obviously doesn't bother you... )

Inquiring minds etc.

Scott

Any idea what the gear ratios are? I am assuming I'd end up with a really crap first gear for off-road... leaving aside the fact that I'd have to mate up a transfer case from something.

But hey, I wouldn't rule it out if the numbers worked.

Jason

I don't know that it really matters for crawling over obstacles - the torque converter can do wonderful things. A friend of mine has a 351 with C4 (?) in a 60 series, and rarely uses low range. Engine braking down hills is where you lose out, but with left foot braking techniques most people don't care about that anymore either.

Then there's the modified torque converter option that AnthonyP has in his Rangie - don't know if it would work for whatever's in the Fairlane.

Adapting to a transfer case could be a problem - if you need a completely different tcase you might get a nice choice of low range ratios to bring your 1st low back down again. Check it out - for the cost of a few phone calls you don't have a lot to lose...

Scott

NJ SWB wrote:I don't know that it really matters for crawling over obstacles - the torque converter can do wonderful things. A friend of mine has a 351 with C4 (?) in a 60 series, and rarely uses low range. Engine braking down hills is where you lose out, but with left foot braking techniques most people don't care about that anymore either.

Then there's the modified torque converter option that AnthonyP has in his Rangie - don't know if it would work for whatever's in the Fairlane.

Adapting to a transfer case could be a problem - if you need a completely different tcase you might get a nice choice of low range ratios to bring your 1st low back down again. Check it out - for the cost of a few phone calls you don't have a lot to lose...

Fitting a lower ratioed transfer case might be pretty cool, especially if it were out of something with a full-time/lockable four-wheel drive setup ie a centre diff... hmmm....

Well, I might start by seeing how cheap I can get the fairlane wreck for!

Jason

Just another thing, I thought I read some where that US autos tended to have bigger torqueconverters on them so they are better suited to high HP and off-roading. (this is going from memory and I have feed it a large amount of beer lately, so could be wrong)
PM MQ080 or Rodeny(extreme transmissions - I think) as they are auto techs.

chimpboy wrote:
Fitting a lower ratioed transfer case might be pretty cool, especially if it were out of something with a full-time/lockable four-wheel drive setup ie a centre diff... hmmm....

Well, I might start by seeing how cheap I can get the fairlane wreck for!

Jason

Hmmm...

Full time 4WD?

Zillmere wreckers have a NJ Pajero (don't laugh!) Exceed (roll-over wreck.) 3.5 DOHC V6 with 153kW, 4sp auto trans and super-select transfer case. 3.15 low range should be available for the trans case early next year.

OK, I'll go away now...

Scott

Quote " What would be the thing to look out for" A CHEV !!!!!

J Top

i wouldn't bother unless you motor is stuffed. all the work for a small gain in kw and no gain in Lt/100. the cost of the motor is not that important when all the other stuff needed to do a reliable conversion costs the real $$$. also extra v8 rego.

but if you have the time

bru

bru21 wrote:i wouldn't bother unless you motor is stuffed. all the work for a small gain in kw and no gain in Lt/100. the cost of the motor is not that important when all the other stuff needed to do a reliable conversion costs the real $$$. also extra v8 rego.

but if you have the time

Interesting... I'd kind of be doing it for fun, anyway, but when I spoke to Geoff Dellow yesterday he seemed to think it would be a great swap just because of the reduced weight, apart from anything else... but I'd have thought a 30% power increase would be pretty noticeable too.

Anyway, I'll keep sussing it out with your opinion in mind as well.

I'm trying to see whether there's much you can do with the V8 to get the power up a bit while it's on the garage floor.

Cost-wise, Dellow quoted under a grand for adaptor bellhousing, engine mounts, and clutch plate, and $400 for an XR8 flywheel. Beyond that, I expect the majority of what I'll need to be made by me for bugger all cost or come from the donor vehicle, with just the exhaust being a possible big extra.

What do you think? What are the other big $$ items?

Jason

this is kinda what i run in my TJ, except my injected 5.0 is out a lincoln towncar, the main difference i think was just the wiring loom and a few different sensors, which was a pain for me because the Jeeps need to run their stock computer for the speedo and dash and all that crap, so i had to get them both wired up together in there

mine came with an AOD auto, so i had to get a custom adapter made to suit an NP208 t/c , but after i had snapped the output shart on the AOD twice i decided to put in a C6 which has held up fine.

the TOTW(topic of the week) over at Pirate at the moment is about swapping the injected 5.0 into a 4x4, you might want to read up on that thread a little to,

but if you decide you dont want to go through with it let me know, i would love to stick another 5.0 in a Jeep

Timmy wrote:this is kinda what i run in my TJ, except my injected 5.0 is out a lincoln towncar, the main difference i think was just the wiring loom and a few different sensors, which was a pain for me because the Jeeps need to run their stock computer for the speedo and dash and all that crap, so i had to get them both wired up together in there

mine came with an AOD auto, so i had to get a custom adapter made to suit an NP208 t/c , but after i had snapped the output shart on the AOD twice i decided to put in a C6 which has held up fine.

the TOTW(topic of the week) over at Pirate at the moment is about swapping the injected 5.0 into a 4x4, you might want to read up on that thread a little to,

but if you decide you dont want to go through with it let me know, i would love to stick another 5.0 in a Jeep

Ah, cool to hear. Do you find it's grunty enough?

Jason

yeh, i like it, i have no idea what HP its doing though, but with 4.88's its enough for me

when i said big $$ items i ment things like radiators, thermo fans, cats, exhausts, insurance, time, then little things like re sleeving clutch cylinders, dot approval etc. also no one will insure a suspension lift and a v8.

i am currently putting a gen 3 350 in mine and am up to $8000+ to do it properly. i felt that i could justify it as the fuel consumption will be reduced (not a real benefit as its my 2nd car) as well as nearly 300kw (had it mafless tuned) seems justifyable. as well as the fact that my car although insured is way beyond legal anyway.

too many people do conversions on the cheap and have everything from overheating issues to regular breakdowns. not saying that yours will, just look long and hard at the costs to do it right. don't get me wrong though

bru21 wrote:when i said big $$ items i ment things like radiators, thermo fans, cats, exhausts, insurance, time, then little things like re sleeving clutch cylinders, dot approval etc. also no one will insure a suspension lift and a v8.

i am currently putting a gen 3 350 in mine and am up to $8000+ to do it properly. i felt that i could justify it as the fuel consumption will be reduced (not a real benefit as its my 2nd car) as well as nearly 300kw (had it mafless tuned) seems justifyable. as well as the fact that my car although insured is way beyond legal anyway.

too many people do conversions on the cheap and have everything from overheating issues to regular breakdowns. not saying that yours will, just look long and hard at the costs to do it right. don't get me wrong though

i agree its a pretty costly thing to do, but i'd say worth it, i mainly did mine just to be different, i hate having something the same as someone else, as far as insurance goes, mine is insured through VGL insurance, and has been ever since i did the conversion like 2+ years ago, its not cheap, lol , but insured.

i'd say go for it, just take it slow so that you only have to do everything once, mine took me over 8 months, but it was worth it,

Timmy wrote:i agree its a pretty costly thing to do, but i'd say worth it, i mainly did mine just to be different, i hate having something the same as someone else, as far as insurance goes, mine is insured through VGL insurance, and has been ever since i did the conversion like 2+ years ago, its not cheap, lol , but insured.

i'd say go for it, just take it slow so that you only have to do everything once, mine took me over 8 months, but it was worth it,

I'll allow three consecutive weekends!



Jason

haha...i allowed one month to do mine how hard can it be ?...haha famous last words

NJ SWB wrote:Any particular reason you don't want to use the auto?

(Other than the whole Ford thing, which obviously doesn't bother you... )

Inquiring minds etc.

Okay, just hypothetically - because I think I'd probably just keep the manual - what would be some good candidates as transfer cases? Cheap, strong, maybe reductive in high as well as low?

The auto ratios are:

Auto V8
1st 2.39
2nd 1.45
3rd 1.00
4th 0.68
–
R 2.09

What has a strong, divorced transfer case?

Jason

ps I reckon sticking with the patrol gearbox will cost heaps less... but anyway...

i used an NP208 in mine, although i probably would have used an NP205 if one was availible,

once u go changing the tranny and the t/c then u will have to do the shifter, cross member, driveshafts, maybe the exhaust, wouldnt be cheap.

whats wrong with just using the Nissan one. We already know they are strong and you can get gears for them.