Outer Limits 4x4 Board

how hard is it to change the rear crankshaft seal on the 1.6 (1.3 same) ?
i know you have to either take the block out, or drop the gear box. how did other people do it? i got a couple of quotes for the rear main seal from mechs, min about $600+.............spewing.

i still can't find the source/origin of the leak(s). i'm going to do the distributor again, and this time a new rocker seal as well. not too sure about the head yet?

if i have to do a head gasket, could i up the compression while i got the head off? how? and should i?


also, i have gearbox oil leaking out of the back of the gearbox (from where the drive shaft is) when i do hill climbs and stuff. how do you fix this? is this the slip yoke? i hear guys in the states always got problems with this, and get a slip yoke eliminator, i think its a driveshaft like what sierras have. (telescoping?) will a spacer fix this?

i should have taken up stamp collecting over 4 wheeling....






























NOT. get real.

anyway, thanks for any help.
steve

what level is the oil coming out? If the oil is on the top of the belhousing I cant imagine how it would be the rear seal. (gravity). Ive never had a mechanic do it but $600 is a bit exessive for a rear seal. I cant see it taking more then a few hours for a mechanic in a workshop to do and the seal itself wont cost much. do those quotes include new clutches?

muppet:
the mechs mentioned something about 5-7hrs..... blah blah blah, i know if you have all the tools and hoists and stuff, it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. right? the seal itself is about $20-$30, but they said genuine, but how do you know if you can't see it? after market seal are usually heaps cheaper, but don't last as long. shorter sevice intervals.

and no, they said absolutely nothing about a new clutch! spewing.

ok, the story is, its real wet at the back of the head where the distributor is, its either the rocker/head, or the dist. if its the dist, then it mean i stuffed up with the O rings......

now, the bell housing..... its wet half way UP both sides, and wet at the bottom, like oil is leaking from the thin metal plate that covers the lower bit of the b/housing. but the block is dry at the back. WTF?

its either TWO seperate leaks, of theres oil dripping through the bell housing. my clutch is not slipping, so theres no oil on it, hopefully, but it could be behind the flywheel, where it just get spun off.

i was thinking about just doing the top, like the rocker seal, and the Dist. again, and give it all a nice big degrease, drive it for about a week, and then have a look at where the oil is.

i don't know of any mechs up here that specialise with suzis, does anyone else know? i know that suzi motors are simple as, and theres not much you could stuff up (if your a mech) but i still dont trust anyone. i'd rather do it myself.

the main thing is, the vitara is my DD at the moment, well, for two more months, so if i do anything, i need to be able to do it in a day or two max.

Well doing a rear main aint an easy job and 5-7 hours labour in a workshop is probably right. If you dont have an engine crane or at least 2 other mates to help (probably both) then you wont be able to do it.

I tried with one mate to do my clutch and was sitting with my gearbox and tcase on my chest trying to lift it up enough to line it up..... might have worked on my datsun boxes but too mcuh weight to hold that high for that long.... maybe I shoulda put the 26" back on first.

Check everything else first...

REAR MAIN SEAL IS GOING TO TAKE ABOUT 2-3 HOURS MAX.

$600 IS A CRAP PRICE,WE DONE ONE ON A 1.3 THE OTHER DAY,REPLACED THE CLUTCH,CABLE,ECT,AND ONLY CHARGED $60.

THE SEAL IS AVAILABLE AFTERMARKET. IT MEASURES 68X86X8.


IF YOU HAVE REPLACED THE DIST.HOUSING O-RING THEN TRY THE
ACTUAL DISTRIBUTOR O-RING AS THESE DO GO.

mine cost me $550 by a mech and that was including a new clutch plate.