Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ive searched the archives, there was some confusion as to whether the nut is 53 or 55mm, does anyone know for certain? Dont want to get the wrong size out of the tool store and have to wait till the next weekend to do the job!

Also is there any tips or hints i should know before i dig into the job?

Bearing kit cost per side, repco $80, veale $80 retail $65 trade, statewide bearings $35

54mm

It is 54mm and u can get the tool from Repco too, ABW makes one but the socket is relitevly dear.......
Bearings are dear when u dont know the right ppl hey?

Thats actually the retail price for statewide, they dont do tradey discounts apparently.

Have to pop into repco on friday and ask for the 54mm bearing tool

so there is a bearing tool to remove and retighten that nut. I've always used a hammer and chisel. Probably worth the investment.

Warning ..... the 54 mm socket is NOT cheap !!, expect prices around the $50 mark for 1 socket !!!!!!!!!

As for a "good investment" , it will depend on how much use you will get from it. I have two of these sockets, one is a bought job and is under virtual lock and key, while the other I made in sheer desperation after the bearings siezed and then wound the lock nuts up that tight that they couldnt be undone ! ........... I wasnt about to wreck the good one !
I had to gas the outer nut off in order to get the inner nut undone, they had fried em selves together that well.

I wouldnt waste ya time buying one if you can borrow one from somewhere, ....... places to borrow from include.......
Truck workshops, tractor workshops, 4x4 shops, ...... remember they may not "lend" tools so ask nicely.

Kingy

They are indeed a dear socket,
I seem to have to use mine at least once a month so for the time and hassle it saves its a top investment

Just make sure u get the Half inch one and dont get tricked into picking up the 3/4 drive job

*looks at his 1/2 to 3/4 drive adapter*

I should be able to get a 54mm out of the tool store at work for the weekend so that wont be a problem

Needs to be a deep thin wall socket.

Paid $20 for a tube spanner one.

Bazzle

Yeh when i asked for the 54mm socket at work the storeman said "it wont work on 4wd wheel bearings, need a thin wall" hehe

Ill just try it with a big ass adjustable or some stillsons, dont really needa do it up super tight anyway, if i start ruining the nut ill go fork out for a socket

Justin_M wrote:Yeh when i asked for the 54mm socket at work the storeman said "it wont work on 4wd wheelbearings, need a thing wall" hehe

Ill just try it with a big ass adjustable or some stillsons, dont really needa do it up super tight anyway, if i start ruining the nut ill go fork out for a socket

the trick is using a screw driver ot a chisel and a hammer.
The inside one should be done up full tight then back a quarter or a turn and the outside one has to be as tight as possible then make sure u lock em off with the lock washers.

screwy

And just for an added point, alot of people like to spin the wheel while doing the inside bolt upto full tightness. Or atleast thats what i was taught at tech

The jobs been easy as so far but looking at my workshop manual, it details either a circlip or a snap ring over the axle, i dont have anything of the sort when i pulled mine apart. There is minimal movement of the axle in or out so i dont know if i should really care. Is leaving out the snap ring a common occurance?

Justin_M wrote:And just for an added point, alot of people like to spin the wheel while doing the inside bolt upto full tightness. Or atleast thats what i was taught at tech

The jobs been easy as so far but looking at my workshop manual, it details either a circlip or a snap ring over the axle, i dont have anything of the sort when i pulled mine apart. There is minimal movement of the axle in or out so i dont know if i should really care. Is leaving out the snap ring a common occurance?

The snap Ring is designed to slip over the end of the axle ) there is a little crevice around the end of the axle for it ) and it holds the axle out against the front of the stub axle. It is needed so that there is enough meat on the axle to grip on the locking hub mechanisism when u lock the hubs.

U will notice that once the stub axle is on u will be able to push the axle itself in further than the stub axle, then it wont lock when u try to lock teh hubs. If the axle is all the way out and u put the stub axle and locking hub on, u may get lucky and it will stay out, but unless u want to all of a sudden lose ur front drive if u get a big bump on one side, then id put one in

It is a common occurance for them to be missing, as they are commonly off and lose inside the locking hub itself ( thats where i have found 3 of em that have come off, inside the locking hub itself stuck to the inside against the back of the outside spin plate. )

if any of that makes sence...

cheers

screwy

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:It is a common occurance for them to be missing, as they are commonly off and lose inside the locking hub itself ( thats where i have found 3 of em that have come off, inside the locking hub itself stuck to the inside against the back of the outside spin plate. )

if any of that makes sence...

cheers

screwy

They tend to become "lost" when removing/replacing. Reason being is the high spring tensile they have, if you let it slip, PING , its in ya shed ......somewhere !
Common name "Jesus clip" ...... why ? .... you'll often hear
"Oh Jesus phucking christ, where did that go" !!

Kingy

is the socket definately 54mm? I've found this one on ebay for FW bearings, its 2 2/32" which is approx. 53.18125mm, so close but often enough so far away. Only US$6, so cheap.

Kingy would this fit? for $10AUS i'll grab one

for $10 its worth a try

Alternativily try an ex army disposal store, ya can get lucky.

Kingy

The 54 mm bearing socket does have some slack on it, so id say there is a good chance that will fit but for $10 give it ago.....

the alternative it about 70

Dredging this up from the depths because I now know what it's all about and have comments.

I bought a 54mm socket made from thin wall tube steel with one end hexagonally shaped to suit the nut, for $25 from All Fourx4 Spares in Kotara. The other end has two holes drilled opposite each other to accomodate a screwdriver or other shaft, and that's all the torque you'll need to apply (hopefully!). It was in the box marked "wheel bearing nut sockets", so consider looking for a dedicated tool, rather than paying big bucks for a 1/2" universal socket.

The 54mm fits fairly loosely on the nuts, so they might be a smidgen smaller. The nuts are so big though, that you still get plenty of grip.

I had surclips in both sides. Seeing I had the diff inspection plate off, I noticed that with the surclips off, the axle could be pushed far enough in that the end of it touched the pinion shaft in the centre of the diff! Can't be good. I couldn't get the bloody thing back on though (didn't have surclip pliers) so ended up positioning it in the second recess from the end of the axle, which I hope does a similar job.

I must have an oddball. The nuts on my MQ and various replacement housings I have had ALL measure 52mm and a 52mm socket fits perfectly. Maybe the Aussie MQs were special - you guys have bigger nuts!

I have now gone to the GU locking system - much simpler.