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Whats easier, swapping bodies or pulling engines/gearboxs?
Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2004 8:26 pm
by Mark2
Bought another GQ 4.2 diesel wagon today, its identical to the other one except it has no rust but the motor and gearbox are a lot more tired.
The plan is to swap my drivetrain into the new GQ and sell the old one off cheap with all the worst bits of the two.
What will be easier, removing and replacing both engines and gearboxes or lifting off both bodies and swapping the bodies? I assume the bodies are fairly heavy.............
Havent decided which diffs/suspension bits I will keep but they are the easy part.
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 9:51 am
by Fathillbilly
motor and g/box swap is a lot easyer than swaping bodies over,
but the other thing to look at is whats the chassis and diffs and bushes and suspension+steering links like.
stu
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 12:17 pm
by Daisy
much much easier swappin motor and gearboxes over.
Have a look on overlander on
http://forums.overlander.com.au/viewtop ... 8&start=45
and have a look at whats invovled in chassis / body swap.. BIG HASSLE
TOM
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 12:44 pm
by chimpboy
Yeah it's no contest, swapping the motor and transmission is a LOT easier than doing a body swap.
Jason
Body Swap
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 12:59 pm
by Patroldude
Been there done that - all be it with MK/MQ model.... trust me, swap the drive line in and out with them side by side - it is something that you can do with a hoist, jack and normal tools - I did it in my garage in unit block easy as - Body swap you either weld special hi lift mounts, work up a jig or (easiest solution I found) get one of those guys with a crane on truck and lift body up put it on ground, then swap other body and then replace one on ground on other chassis - takes an hour or so IF its totally stripped.... If I had to do it again (and I will at christmas with my mates MQ) swap the drive line over.... If its a petrol/diesel swap - different story... try swapping petrol L28 motor and 24v SD33 5 speed - THEN u HAVE to get crane dude in.... Took me long weekend to do it from start to finish...
Not bad for an office worker eh????
Mark
Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 9:32 pm
by Mark2
Thanks for the replies,
Sounds like its no contest.
I dont suppose I can get the gearbox and 4.2 out in one piece throgh the top? I'm dreading the thought of wrestiling with that heavy gearbox on the driveway.
Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2004 7:08 am
by Daisy
Mark2 wrote:Thanks for the replies,
Sounds like its no contest.
I dont suppose I can get the gearbox and 4.2 out in one piece throgh the top? I'm dreading the thought of wrestiling with that heavy gearbox on the driveway.
they'll need to be separated.
I removed engine first, a jack held the gearbox in position as not to break off the rubber mounts supporting it.
Unbolted bellhousin to engine bolts, and rocked motor slowly to come out. Forcing it out too fast can see the motor swing forward. (remove radiator b4 the removal) Once removed.. then undo gearbox mounting bolts and lower the gearbox with the jack. You'll need at least two guys holdin the box to stop it fallin off the jack.
Good luck and installation is reverse of above.
TOM
Here we go again...
Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 8:41 am
by Patroldude
Having said all of the above I have just decided to do a body swap with everything above board and compliant - my chev patrol body is very good compared to most but needs paint and I am a bit over painting trucks in unit block.... I have purchased a dead diesel recently but the body is in outstanding condition and was recently resprayed black - It is not the best of jobs but for a 4x4 that gets used as exactl;y that in the dunes of Kurnell and the Mud of Menai it will do.
In case anyone is interested - I have to take the 24v wirin out of the diesel, strip it totally and match the paint on the insides, cut the guards change all of the interior over and then I can remove all the stuff in the engine bay and paint bay too.... once sorted I can then put all the stuff from the chev inside it if I have it finished, change bodies over , put al the panels back on, add the body lift again and then put it all back together again... YA - should take me a day to strip one and 2 days to replace the remainder if it goes smoothly. Gonna get screwy to help on LPG and will probably take photos of it all so post if anyone is keen... then the hard part - papers.....
Should look ok though.
Changing driveline much much easier in most cases but not this one.... Actual swap will only take an hour or so though hey....
Cheers!!!!
Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:58 am
by Fathillbilly
do you have access to a fork lift?
if you do just pull the whole lot as one just make sure you set the chain up close to the front of the motor so the whole lot tilts verticaly
take off grill, pull out radiator, remove fan and clutch, diconect all wires and pipes, levers, and handbrake. hold gear box up with trolley jack drop g/box cross member, undo engine mounts, hook up fork.
if you don't have a fork just seperate transfer and then the box, it is a lot easyier to handle that way.
Stu
engine vs body swap
Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2004 7:09 pm
by johno
Ive not long finished a body swap it looks a big deal but its not, only had a high lift jack and the cook for help took the vehicle up a bit at the time from the front then down to the back end, you need 4 of the old 12 gallon drums and two strong hard wood 4x4s, its not really that simple but you will work it out one tip though the two rear mounting bolts are held by a captive nut via the rear cargo area. DO NOT TRY TO UNDO THEM WITHOUT APPLYING SOME HEAT, all you need is a butane gas torch not much heat needed but if you dont the captive nut will turn and then problems begin. Hope i caught you before you got started. Johno