Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I know this has been covered a lot, and Ive read all the other posts on it, but wanted to ask a couple of questions here.

Yesterday I had an OME 2' lift put in (no gearbox packers, no Castor kit), has actually raised rear of car close to 3 inches, drives so much smoother than before......apart from...

There is a vibration under the car between probably 30 and 40 k's per hour, when in 2nd and 3rd gear.

Now, I instantly assumed this was the tailshaft vibration that required the packers, however was told that this should only occur when slowing down from speed, not when speeding up, is this correct??
So if that is the case, the packers would make no difference...

Can anyone think of anything else that the lift could have affected??

Am i just gonna have to put up with the vibration???

Its going back for 500k check in a week or so, so they said they will test drive it then.

Could it be that there was an existing problem, and now Its noticeable because of the firmer ride.


Thanks

Andrew

Andrew, hopefully you will get some good responses to this, if you find the definative answer to this - please post. i.e. what actually fixed it.

I had a major drama with a lift on my SWB GQ (major vibration at similar speeds) and ended up ripping it all out, got money back, took it to a bloke who knew what he was doing...(bigger lift than yours with all the fruit)

500 thousand clicks? where have u been driving

hottiemonster wrote:500 thousand clicks? where have u been driving

no 500 kms since suspension lift

anything else it COULD be?

might be that ur uni's were not to flash and the lift has angled them more, showing up the fault more

firstly i would try greasing up your uni's or better yet borrow a mates rear tailshaft, but i think it is the lift putting to much angle on your tailshaft i new someone who put a 2inch lift in and had vibrations not in all speeds but similar to yours he had to get adjustable rear upper arms to rotate the diff back slightly as well as 2 gearbox packers, also new a guy who put a 4 inch in and only had to put 1 gearbox packer in just goes to show that no 2 patrols are the same i have 4 inch with adjustable upper arms and 2 gearbox packersi think you will just have to try things till its gone
i.e try one packer then 2 if it still doesn't work put in adjustabe upper arms

marin wrote:anything else it COULD be?

might be that ur uni's were not to flash and the lift has angled them more, showing up the fault more

It was suggested by the shop that the Unis may be the problem, but they said the lift shouldn't affect it. I believe it could be like you said, that an existing problem is now more evident...

Bartso wrote:i.e try one packer then 2 if it still doesn't work put in adjustabe upper arms

So the problem I described could be due to the angle, and the packers MAY help?

They suggested that the tailshaft vibration would only come into play when backing off the accelerator from speed, and not like I said....

I will probably give the packers a go, it is only $30 for the set.

NOoo...

Packers are the devil.

Admittedly they do lower the angle at the transfer case end but increase the angle on your front shaft... so that gets slowly shagged as welll....Then if there is a body lift your levers will definately be contacting the flooor...

Give Glenn Marshmann a call at binskins 4wd... He was one of the first chappys to lift a shorty (LIke ... 16 years ago) over 2 inches and play around with the double cardan setup...

IN talking to him myself it is often the case that even a mild lift in a swb requires a double cardan setup. Or give cheezy a calll...... he uses other tricks to iron this shite out....

But the problem is definately rear tailshaft related....

double carden joint your talking big money im sure GQandrew doesn't want that both packers and adjustable upper arms are cheaper than that also putting packers in i don't see hw it increases your front tailshaft angle as the packers drop the gearbox evenly hence both the front and rear tailshaft drop down i would only eva get a double carden if you get a 5 inch spring lift or higher try the cheapest thing first - packers
then try adjustable arms by memory i paid 300 for adjustable upper arms and a double carden joint tail shaft i think costs around 900

Bartso wrote:double carden joint your talking big money im sure GQandrew doesn't want that

Your bloody right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Think I will just tell the shop about some of the probs ive heard about, then see what they come up with...

If you have packers have a look at the transfercase uni of your front shaft...... it points up not level any more there aint no parallel angles anymore. Packers are use to improve the driveline angle at the rear................. It don't look right...
Honestly have a close look if you have packers...

YOu can get away with longer lower arms me thinks..... talk to cheezy...

I was just saying that in GLenn's experience a lot of shortys have needed the DC treatment even with mild lifts............like 50mm and 75 mm

Longer Lower Arms? Wouldn't that make it worse and i thought they were called trailing arms? Wouldn't you get longer upper arms?

I think lifting a car makes ya diff rotate up a little....... The longer lower trailing arm method seems to work for cheezy... it puts the two outputs into magical territory... or within 3 degrees opposing each other....

I had the same problem, it was at 45kmh on acceleration.

Crossmember packers did reduce it by 80-90%

Since then I have raised the rear another 30mm and have another little
vibration in 4th at 95kmh.

I was thinking of seeing Cheezy for other options.

I am happy with the outcome but dont want to cause any other problems eg. the front unis

Eric

hey guys.. i have 5 inch lift in my mav shorty. with an auto. i have used cheezys 16 mm longer lower trailing arms and vibrations were almost gone.. i spoke to him agian and he said that he makes 1 inch higher and indestructible engine mounts that will have the same effect as using a gearbox packer, that will cure the remainder of my vibes..
gear box packers work, but lower ur cross member reducing undebelly hieght. they also add greater stress to ur engine mounts wich would be already copping a flogging from bigger tyres and low range thrashing..so if u use his engine mounts u will fix more than one problem.

my recommendation, but this was just what worked for my mav, and believe me thay are all different, would be longer lower arms first, engine mounts second and gear box packers last if neccesary.. also changing the amount of packers or adjusting spacing will change the set up.. so if u dont wanna go out and buy stuff, u can muck around with washers ets to space crossmember. but any decent lift will require longer lower arms..

longer arms work by flattening the pinnion angle to match the angle of the uni fron the gear box.. longer arms are used wih double carden set ups where pinnion and tailshaft must be in line and double carden does bending on gear box end..

tak to cheezy, and im sure binskins will know too.. these guys are gq gods.. i hope this helps... cheers

oh...and by the way.. i have a double carden shaft here that i got made up as i thought i would need it.. and havent as yet..so ther are ways aroun these things, but u have to talk to the right people. bloody thing cost almost 1000 but is sitting in my shed.