Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well, it's taken a while due to being so busy building things for everyone else, but I've finally finished building my custom radiator for my GQ auto petrol. It uses the same core as that used by the V8 supercars (except the tubes aren't internally dimpled) and is 2 rows of 26mm tubes in a core width of 57mm.
In total volume it almost twice the size of the standard Nissan item.
Regards Andrew.

Very nice work. Did you build it yourself?
If so it's a credit to you. :wink:

very neat welding..

how does aluminium stand up to vibration etc on a rig that does a lot of outback touring and rough tracks.
does it work harden or any thing ?
had been thinking of an alloy one on my GU to cure the running hot syndrome.
BTW.....looks awesome.
shane

It looks nice but i have to ask WHY?
The factory patrol radiator doesnt have any probs.

Carl Coight wrote:Very nice work. Did you build it yourself?
If so it's a credit to you. :wink:

very nice in deed

RUFF wrote:It looks nice but i have to ask WHY?
The factory patrol radiator doesnt have any probs.

When you are running 18 pound of boost, the fuel pump has been tinkered with and you are doing a lot of high speed full noise work they are not up to the job. Just fitted a custom 4 core to our GQ, even my GU gets hot when towing the camper up any sort of gradient.

But he is talking a Petrol Patrol not a diesel.

Ok, l missed that minor detail.

It could also be a missprint but this is why i was wondering.
Still even if it is deisel and has big boost or is towing a lot then i still dont see why you would run such a large rad.There are better and cheaper ways of fixing an overheating prob.
I know 10second street cars running around with the stock radiator and fan.

We contemplated using a fan but in Mexico we have a lot of water and bog holes which root up fans prety quickly.

Electric fans wont fix anything if its overheating you need to look at the factory fan and waterpump. Usually if you can slow the water pump down a little you will fix the prob.
A mate has a VL with a 333 VN headed stroker that runs consistant 10.6 passes and is still street driven daily and only runs the factory radiator and the factory viscus fan.No electric fans.

I think our problem was partly caused by the body lift we put in, it raised the radiator up 2 inches and put everything out of wack. New radiator has been lowered to original location and was tested at the Pajero Challenge this weekend. Problem gone

Drafty wrote:I think our problem was partly caused by the body lift we put in, it raised the radiator up 2 inches and put everything out of wack. New radiator has been lowered to original location and was tested at the Pajero Challenge this weekend. Problem gone

I was at the Pajero Challenge, which GQ was yours? Colour?

This one ( ARB sticker gone Ontrack 4x4 our new sponsor ).

Which car were you in?

Drafty wrote:This one ( ARB sticker gone Ontrack 4x4 our new sponsor ).

Which car were you in?

Ahh, i remember that one I wasn't competing this year but next year definitely. I was at checkpoint 1.2 and at the observation point on Shortcut track 2, almost died walking up and down that bloody hill.

There is a lot of steep country in that area, was a real good comp with some great steep rocky hill climbs, put togethor very profesionally. Felt rooted this morning, had to stop 3 times this morning on the way home, nearly fell asleep,

The main reason I made it is that on slow speed low range and even highway work on the hills the temp gets up there. As soon as I back off the temp falls but I wanted something that just wouldn't get hot and it fitted the bill perfectly. Also the wife and I are buying a caravan and we want the cooling system in top order.
The main problem appears to be from the auto trans coolers in both endtanks radiating heat into the coolant. Easy solution I hear you say, remove them and use an external one. Well, that doesn't quite work as well as it could because the auto needs to run at an optimum temp and not too cold. If it's too cold then the torque convertor lock up won't work.
The best method is to use both radiator endtank trans coolers and an external on as well and that's what I've done.
As far as toughness is concerned, nearly all 4x4 radiators are now aluminium but they use plastic tanks and you'll get approx 4 to 5 years then the tanks will have to be replaced.
But, for cooling ability, aluminium beats brass ones hands down. Have a look at any current Commodore V6 the radiator would be lucky to be 20mm thick and if the system is in good order they have no problems.
I'll be mounting it using original mounts and original fan and shroud assembly as I'm not in favour of electric fans for a 4x4.
I've made provision for 2 extra temp senders, one as the coolant enters the rad' and one as it exits the rad so I can get some accurate differential temps under different ambient and road conditions.
My next project is an intercooler for a turbo/petrol 4 cylinder Jackaroo using a blow through carby setup and a custom aluminium radiator to suit an FJ Holden with a red motor in it.
No rest for the wicked I guess.
Regards Andrew.

awill4x4 wrote:The main reason I made it is that on slow speed low range and even highway work on the hills the temp gets up there. As soon as I back off the temp falls but I wanted something that just wouldn't get hot and it fitted the bill perfectly. Also the wife and I are buying a caravan and we want the cooling system in top order.
The main problem appears to be from the auto trans coolers in both endtanks radiating heat into the coolant. Easy solution I hear you say, remove them and use an external one. Well, that doesn't quite work as well as it could because the auto needs to run at an optimum temp and not too cold. If it's too cold then the torque convertor lock up won't work.
The best method is to use both radiator endtank trans coolers and an external on as well and that's what I've done.
As far as toughness is concerned, nearly all 4x4 radiators are now aluminium but they use plastic tanks and you'll get approx 4 to 5 years then the tanks will have to be replaced.
But, for cooling ability, aluminium beats brass ones hands down. Have a look at any current Commodore V6 the radiator would be lucky to be 20mm thick and if the system is in good order they have no problems.
I'll be mounting it using original mounts and original fan and shroud assembly as I'm not in favour of electric fans for a 4x4.
I've made provision for 2 extra temp senders, one as the coolant enters the rad' and one as it exits the rad so I can get some accurate differential temps under different ambient and road conditions.
My next project is an intercooler for a turbo/petrol 4 cylinder Jackaroo using a blow through carby setup and a custom aluminium radiator to suit an FJ Holden with a red motor in it.
No rest for the wicked I guess.
Regards Andrew.

very nice, you've done a great job, and if you got the talent and the parts, why not make a bling bling radiator.. COOL
BUT my 1997 hilux has plastic tanks, on top of alloy and at 6 years old it doesnt have any problems?!?!?! the bottom tank was replaced but i tore it off on a stump, which is a different issue

Stupid Question 101.

But...

How much would say something with a single width 26mm core cost an average joe punter from here?? With the Outerlimits discount of course!!!

Just had to ask.

Alwill4x4 very nice workmanship.

I have an aluminium radiator in my RR it performs faultlessly so far.
It was custom made to what I wanted.
Cost was not prohibative much like getting a custom stock item.

Mounts in origonal location.

Fan mounts were built into it as well. ( elec fans)

regards
Michael.

BJ on roids, the main problem with plastic tanks is where the water enters the radiator, it hits the rear of the tank and over time is simply eaten away. You'll never have problems with bottom tanks only the top tanks are the problem.

80 diesel4play, nearly everything we do is custom stuff which we get made by either PWR/K&J thermal products or just recently Adrad in Adelaide. As an example the core for mine cost me nearly $600, but it is a big core. Because this is something I only do because it interests me, I not really on any special deals with the core manufacturers unfortunately.
We sort of fell into custom radiators/intercoolers by accident when I commented to a customer just how bad the welding was on an intercooler he had bought elsewhere. He asked if I could do any better so I did.
It also helps if you have top welding machines. My new Tig is the only one in the country and compares favourably with ARE's aerowave which would cost nearly 8K more than mine. ( the importer really wanted one in the country and gave me a good deal)

HSV rangie, do you mind if I ask. Who built it for you? I've gotten to see most of what's available here in Melb. but I'm always on the lookout for good ideas from other people.
Regards Andrew.

Andrew,
I had Rod from Race Radiators build mine.
Bennet st Dandenong.

As he was the only guy I found that would do as i wanted then.

Regards
Michael.

Andrew - thanks for that info... wanted an idea of something as I have a buildup in the pipeline and am going to run a rear mounted rad' with elec thermo's. Going to use two elec water pumps that are thermo controlled - so that the engine will actually "warm" up and that the thermostat will work properley. ie - more heat in engine - more flow from pumps to rad and so forth - simple control in mind to set up too.

Um - I knwo where you are situated - when i get organised - I will try to catch up and discuss more. Thanks!

custom aluminium radiator..1 squillion.
having the aircon working on a 46 degree day...priceless.

Sorry for digging up a thread that's a year old...

I was just wondering about wear and tear on these Aluminium Radiators?

I've heard that they are more prone to damage etc... how are people finding theirs are lasting?

Thanks

greg wrote:Sorry for digging up a thread that's a year old...

I was just wondering about wear and tear on these Aluminium Radiators?

I've heard that they are more prone to damage etc... how are people finding theirs are lasting?

Thanks

good question

RUFF wrote:Electric fans wont fix anything if its overheating you need to look at the factory fan and waterpump. Usually if you can slow the water pump down a little you will fix the prob.
A mate has a VL with a 333 VN headed stroker that runs consistant 10.6 passes and is still street driven daily and only runs the factory radiator and the factory viscus fan.No electric fans.

you dont need extra cooling on a v8 that uses nitrous on the track

jessie928 wrote:

RUFF wrote:Electric fans wont fix anything if its overheating you need to look at the factory fan and waterpump. Usually if you can slow the water pump down a little you will fix the prob.
A mate has a VL with a 333 VN headed stroker that runs consistant 10.6 passes and is still street driven daily and only runs the factory radiator and the factory viscus fan.No electric fans.

you dont need extra cooling on a v8 that uses nitrous on the track

Street driven daily.

sierrajim wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

RUFF wrote:Electric fans wont fix anything if its overheating you need to look at the factory fan and waterpump. Usually if you can slow the water pump down a little you will fix the prob.
A mate has a VL with a 333 VN headed stroker that runs consistant 10.6 passes and is still street driven daily and only runs the factory radiator and the factory viscus fan.No electric fans.

you dont need extra cooling on a v8 that uses nitrous on the track

Street driven daily.

is it on N20? If so, jessie is right. Otherwise, a good factory cooling system, in good condition, is a great system.
The factory test in the outback, and the cars must pass this test.
They are driven at high speed, for hours, to ensure heat soak sets in, on a 40 degree plus day, then driven straight into a Hotbox (foil lined 4 sided box, with no roof) at midday.
They are then left to idle for another hour, if the temp does not start to come down, they fail. if it overheats, it definately fails!