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air con dismantling/rebuilding to pump help needed
Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2004 10:23 pm
by Bluey
from when i bought this car air con doesnt work. turn in on and whole lotta nothing happens. on the dash is dial for heater fan, behind which is a small plastic ring marked "AC" which can be turned around. i assume this is how you turn on air con
anyway, about a month ago was trying to sort out fitting my bar and winch and the ac tubing and radiator thingy was giving me the shits. so i decided to remove these bits. i then found out all fittings were not even done up hand tight, so no gas then
ripped plumbing from pump to firewall out, including radiator thingy and sightglass
i now still have ac embedded in middle of dash as part of my heater setup. how do i remove this while still reataining operation of heater
and how do i work out if air con still works so i can convert to a air compressor setup only? still have compressor mounted with two hoses coming out of it. can anyone tell me what i need to do to hardwire the pump to a switch in cab (assuming it works)
Cheers
Lance
Re: air con dismantling/rebuilding to pump help needed
Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 11:23 am
by dumbdunce
Bluey wrote:i now still have ac embedded in middle of dash as part of my heater setup. how do i remove this while still reataining operation of heater
the non air conditioned setups have a molded plastic duct in place of the air cond evaporator. the evaporator (assuming it is good) is worth a fair bit of money - might be able to flog it to an air conditioning shop. They might also have a duct lying around form converting a 7x series cruiser to air condioning in the past. otherwise you could probably get it from a wrecker, or get it from a dealer as a spare part, but $$$.
and how do i work out if air con still works so i can convert to a air compressor setup only? still have compressor mounted with two hoses coming out of it. can anyone tell me what i need to do to hardwire the pump to a switch in cab (assuming it works)
stick your thumb over the end of the discharge port or hose on the compressor (will be marked with a 'D', it will be the hose that went to the receiver/dryer (sightglass thing) - and turn the compressor by hand, no need to turn it fast. if the compressor is good, about three or four turns of the compressor will be too much pressure for you to hold with your thumb (without the hose on there). you use it as an onboard air compressor, you need an oiler on the inlet port, and a dryer on the discharge side. to turn it on/off all you need is a switch 12v wire to the compressor clutch wire which should be sticking out at the top fromt of the compressor.
cheers
Brian
Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:09 pm
by dow50r
Hi Bluey
Somewhere along those pipes you took off, there would have been a switch with two wires coming from it. If you find them, and connect them together, that completes the circuit and the air control will turn the a/c compresser on.
If you want a manual control safety switch, putting another toggle on the dash and connecting it between those wires i said earlier will stop the accidental running of the compresser....or if you put a pressure vessel in there with a pressure switch, putting that between those wires will see the compresser charge the bottle to the preset pressure automatically if the air cond switch is selected.
Andrew
Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:18 pm
by dumbdunce
dow50r wrote:Hi Bluey
Somewhere along those pipes you took off, there would have been a switch with two wires coming from it. If you find them, and connect them together, that completes the circuit and the air control will turn the a/c compresser on.
that's unlikely. most landcruiser air conditioning systems also have a low pressure shutoff switch in the evaporator in series with the high pressure shutoff switch so that in the event of coolant leakage the compressor will not run. 7x series also have a variable thermostat in that circuit. also possible that the switching circuit requires a tach signal and some will have an engine coolant temp signal that shuts the air conditioner down if the coolant temperature rises excessively.
for use as an air compressor for airing up tyres, a single switched 12v wire to the clutch is definitely the go. if you add a tank to run air tools etc then yes it's more than a good idea to add a pressure switch in series with the manual switch.
Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 9:26 pm
by Bluey
thanks guys.
looks like the wire going to ac pump also goes to small vacumn pump? 2 outputs that go to throttle and other to bigger pump, then to transfer (hydraulic or vacumn i guess activated)
just unplug and connect to 12volts, should get air coming out of one of my pipes right?
dumbdunce, thanks for the info about evaporator, had no idea. any money recovered goes to more mods