Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,

How do you undo a nut that just doesn't want to come undone?

The nut is the one on the rear drivers side leaf pack that locates the front end of the leaf pack. I have tried everything up to and including a 450mm socket handle. Even when it is jacked off the ground I can't even spin the bolt. This thing is farking tight!!!

The LHS equivalent came off with just a normal sized ring spanner.

Any ideas?
How about a mechanical shop that has some sort of super duper pneumatic tools on Brisbane's southside?

This is all that is stopping me from from doing my suspension lift now. Oh yeah IFS lift

Any other Isuzu owners had a problem with this bolt?

Just cut the f*%&er off and replace it Mucho satisfying when they're giving you grief

Well if I can't get the thing off any other way I am going to get by brother to bring his oxy set over. Prob is he's away til next week and i wanna get it done this week. Going away on the weekend and I'm sick of ploughing tracks

put a bit of heat on it with the oxy or a propane torch might work, or try a really long breaker bar on it. is it possible to put a breaker bar on it then jack up the end of the breaker bar to put the weight of the vehicle to turning it? can generate 1000Nm+ this way. but if it's that hard to undo yeah chop it off and put a new one in.

supercheap grinder always does the trick

Keep hitting it with WD40. Let it really soak in.

dumbdunce wrote:put a bit of heat on it with the oxy or a propane torch might work, or try a really long breaker bar on it. is it possible to put a breaker bar on it then jack up the end of the breaker bar to put the weight of the vehicle to turning it? can generate 1000Nm+ this way. but if it's that hard to undo yeah chop it off and put a new one in.

I did do the jack under the handle trick but it didn't work.
I just can't understand how this can be so farking tight. The external parts of the thread etc look fine. No rust or anything. Even if the bolt is bent somehow surely the nut should still come off? I think I'll chop this #$%^%& just to teach it a lesson

Shorty40 wrote:Keep hitting it with WD40. Let it really soak in.

Been doing that for days. Still no go

R u sure that this is not the nut welded to the bracket/chassis and the bolt comes out from the other side.
Not familiar with the layout, just a suggestion.

Clint wrote:R u sure that this is not the nut welded to the bracket/chassis and the bolt comes out from the other side.
Not familiar with the layout, just a suggestion.

No it is defiately a removable nut and bolt. The other side came out fine. Just this side being a prick.

I just called my brother and he's bringing over his oxy on Monday. Guess I'm just going to have to wait.........................I hate waiting

Clint wrote:R u sure that this is not the nut welded to the bracket/chassis and the bolt comes out from the other side.
Not familiar with the layout, just a suggestion.

I had a simliar problem with my rear diff flange..

Was locked solid... turning it wil result in the wheels turning around.. so i chocked them both and had mates sittin on it while i kicked the 30mm socket with a 3 foot bar. DID NOT WORK.. my mate cut his foot doin that (was doin it with thongs) and i had a sore leg from doin it for 3 days straight.

Thought i'd be smart and go to kennards to hire a compressor, and air rattle gun, but the rattle gun looke dtoo small, instead i came back with an electric rattle gun - a makita brand 450 nms of torque..

went under car again.. and sat there for a while with the makita rattle gun just kept the button down and waited... finally after a minute and half of rattling my brains out.. the nut came out..

Give it a go perhaps??

If its that solid... a 3 foot breaker bar maybe

TOM

Utemad wrote: I think I'll chop this #$%^%& just to teach it a lesson

Just break out the grinder with a cutting disc and get it off now

Won't have to wait for the oxy

-Mick- wrote:

Utemad wrote: I think I'll chop this #$%^%& just to teach it a lesson

Just break out the grinder with a cutting disc and get it off now

Won't have to wait for the oxy

We've got a 9in friction saw that would make short work of it but that's with the oxy set. Which is near Gladstone. Never had much call to buy myself one. I've got a 4in grinder but guess where that is???

Utemad wrote:

-Mick- wrote:

Utemad wrote: I think I'll chop this #$%^%& just to teach it a lesson

Just break out the grinder with a cutting disc and get it off now

Won't have to wait for the oxy

We've got a 9in friction saw that would make short work of it but that's with the oxy set. Which is near Gladstone. Never had much call to buy myself one. I've got a 4in grinder but guess where that is???

Doh

you are turning it the right way, yeah?

get the good old truct hacksaw out and have a crack, it may take a while, but beats waiting till monday..................

dumbdunce wrote:you are turning it the right way, yeah?

Yep I checked

Where are you on Brissy southside? Your welcome to try my electric and air rattle guns on it.

ozy1 wrote:get the good old truct hacksaw out and have a crack, it may take a while, but beats waiting till monday..................

I thought of that but I thought that this bolt would be high tensile. Bit much with a hacksaw ??? Not sure might try anyway.

Would you be able to drive it to the local mechanic and see if they'll hit it with the rattle gun?? Me and a mate towed his subaru to the local servo to use the rattle gun to undo the bolt on the harmonic balancer (sp).

Draven wrote:Where are you on Brissy southside? Your welcome to try my electric and air rattle guns on it.

PM sent

thats what rattle guns are for. i have a 3/4 gun that would make short work of it on the sunny coast.

also why are you scared of a hacksaw. at worst they might increase your heart rate. bugs me when power tools are veiwed as the only option. high tensile is not much harder to cut than mild steel providing you have a decent blade.

cheers bru

bru21 wrote:thats what rattle guns are for. i have a 3/4 gun that would make short work of it on the sunny coast.

also why are you scared of a hacksaw. at worst they might increase your heart rate. bugs me when power tools are veiwed as the only option. high tensile is not much harder to cut than mild steel providing you have a decent blade.

cheers bru

It's not so much the cutting as the not being able to get another bolt. Doubt Holden would have one in stock and I only know of one of these Rodeos being wrecked and it has been burned. So would be real difficult to undo that bolt too.

So I don't mind cutting it but will leave that as an option for later and I will get a replacement first.

Plus I just so happen to be using a rattle gun on it tomorrow. Thanks to Draven.

Nut and bolt places should have them on the shelves.

bru21 wrote:thats what rattle guns are for.

I like my rattle gun too but it is just not the same feeling of satisfaction that my grinder gives on the bolts that have no right being that tight.

Rattle gun wouldn't do it. I said it was farking tight didn't I?

BRING ON THE OXY TORCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tried the breaker bar ?

Usually when the rattle gun doesn't work, i grab the breaker bar out and it works each time

Mad Cruiser wrote:Tried the breaker bar ?

Usually when the rattle gun doesn't work, i grab the breaker bar out and it works each time

I tried the breaker bar first.

Think I'll just try and source another bolt next week and take it from there.

If anyone is interested, the electric rattle gun is available at Brisbane Car Sound (Strathfield) and is on special for $58.

Might just go get myself one

If all fails, grind it off