Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok guyts ive scored a chescold b533 but i dont have a manual or anything other than the fridge its 3 way lpg 12v or 240v im hoping to be able to run it on lpg this weekend while camping but ive never used one any tips or ideas

also will it run better on lpg or 12v we have a generator with us so if it will run better on 12v ill take a spare battery to run it off during the dayand charge it off the generator in the evening when we have it running

pretty straightforward. hook up your lpg bottle to the fitting, turn on the gas at the bottle, turn your dial to wherever you want it and push the button that is on the top next to your temp setting i think. That is the piezo elecric spark which you can see when you look through the whole at the back in one of the corners probably on the bottom, you'll probably need a couple of sparks until it lights. Very much the same as any gas BBQ. If there is two buttons one of them you need to hold down to let the gas through and the other will be your spark.

These types of fridge run heaps better on gas. I have ran one in a car on gas instead of 12V but i wouldn't recommend that on a petrol car. Or any car for that matter it isn't real safe.

Take a Spirit Level and make sure it is sitting dead level. If it out a smidge it will not work as well!

Thats the main point when using one of these suckers!

cheers guys ive gotta go buy a hose for it the one from my bbq dont fit it thats sweet to know that it will be better on lpg ill run it on 12v till we get to camp then hook the gas up and get it cookin erm coolin

don't forget the gas pressure regulater as well

just thought is post to say thanks guys got the gas hose off the last owner had it running all weekend on gas and it was perfest keps everything frozen untill someone moved it and didnt make it level grrrr next time ill take the spirit level to get it perfect

I have a couple of 3 way fridges, as well as an Engel. We run one of the 3 ways all the time as a drinks fridge at home. Most would know that running on 12v is the worst way to run these fridges. Usually, any ice on the internal element will have defrosted after an hour or so when run on 12v. Here is the solution. Grab 3 x 4 inch 12 volt computer fans, and mount them on the rear of the fridge in line with the condensor element. Wire them up to the 12v power supply. Now, the element will keep frozen, and you can pack gear all over the fridge without worrying about it defrosting. I have had an old 3way modified this way for about 5 years, and it works a treat, even when travelling on 12v.

BundyRumandCoke wrote: Most would know that running on 12v is the worst way to run these fridges. Usually, any ice on the internal element will have defrosted after an hour or so when run on 12v. Here is the solution. Grab 3 x 4 inch 12 volt computer fans, and mount them on the rear of the fridge in line with the condensor element. Wire them up to the 12v power supply. Now, the element will keep frozen, and you can pack gear all over the fridge without worrying about it defrosting. I have had an old 3way modified this way for about 5 years, and it works a treat, even when travelling on 12v.

I have heard of this, is the idea that the computer fans suck the air away from the element? I'm assuming that this improves performance even when not mounted in some sort of crappy ventilated caravan, but also when used in the open? What do you reckon some of the older 3-ways would be like if you did this ; would it make them able to keep 4 degrees C?(old=cheap, 3-way=cheap - no dual battery) and should you run the fans even when on gas?

Thanks for any input, am looking on ebay for fridges and some of the old 3-ways are quite cheap.

I have an 80 which runs on lpg can you put a conection in to run a gas fridge?

Well, the 3 way I run must be at least 20 years old. Its pretty battered, has some rust in the external casing. I bought it about 12 years ago for $75. Its the best $75 I ever spent.
As long as it still holds refrigerant, which for these is an ammonia liquid, then it should run. If looking at one, plug it into 240V for half an hour, and have a good sniff round the back. If you smell a strong ammonia smell, forget it. If it doesnt get cold, try turning the whole fridge upside down for 24 hours, then try again. Sometimes the refrigerant jet can get blocked, and this should clear it.
If it doesnt work on gas, but does on 12 and 240V, then check for wasps nests in the piping.

BundyRumandCoke wrote:Well, the 3 way I run must be at least 20 years old. Its pretty battered, has some rust in the external casing. I bought it about 12 years ago for $75. Its the best $75 I ever spent.
As long as it still holds refrigerant, which for these is an ammonia liquid, then it should run. If looking at one, plug it into 240V for half an hour, and have a good sniff round the back. If you smell a strong ammonia smell, forget it. If it doesnt get cold, try turning the whole fridge upside down for 24 hours, then try again. Sometimes the refrigerant jet can get blocked, and this should clear it.
If it doesnt work on gas, but does on 12 and 240V, then check for wasps nests in the piping.

That sounds very detailed cause and solution, youve had wasps in the pipes before?

Jimbo - no mate, auto lpg is not suitable for use in domestic appliances due to additives and stuff. I quizzed the gas man at work for the same type of reason.

Dane wrote:Jimbo - no mate, auto lpg is not suitable for use in domestic appliances due to additives and stuff. I quizzed the gas man at work for the same type of reason.

thanks

BundyRumandCoke wrote:Well, the 3 way I run must be at least 20 years old. Its pretty battered, has some rust in the external casing. I bought it about 12 years ago for $75. Its the best $75 I ever spent.
As long as it still holds refrigerant, which for these is an ammonia liquid, then it should run. If looking at one, plug it into 240V for half an hour, and have a good sniff round the back. If you smell a strong ammonia smell, forget it. If it doesnt get cold, try turning the whole fridge upside down for 24 hours, then try again. Sometimes the refrigerant jet can get blocked, and this should clear it.
If it doesnt work on gas, but does on 12 and 240V, then check for wasps nests in the piping.

So you'd recommend that they're not as bad as everyone says... seems like the cheapest way to get a portable fridge, have noticed a couple on ebay,

http://contact.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI ... uestion_VI

and

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... %3AIT&rd=1

a bit pricy though considering a brand new 35L 3-way is only around $400... (understandably the above ones are bigger, but still...) If i could get one around the $100 mark, and maybe do the computer fan thing to get it working even better then it might be worth it!! still just considering my options; the esky is still fine but needs a new bag of ice each day which can be a pita.

I have 2, well actually 3 different 3 way fridges, and a small older Engel. Basically which fridge I use depends on what type of travelling I am doing. If its mainly driving, then I use both, if needed. If I plan on camping in one spot for a week or so, and 240V availability is an issue, I run the 3 way on gas. If its just a day trip, or a weekend which doesnt need heaps of refrigeration, then its the Engel.
Remember a 3 way runs worst on 12V, but I believe thats due to poor air circulation around the condenser. With the 12V fans, I can pack things around the fridge, and on top of it, and keep it running efficently. Decent cabling also is pretty important. Forget the cigarette lighter connections. I have dedicated cabling running to the back of the car, and run 2 pin polarised plugs on all my 12V accessories.

Heres some pics of the 3 way fridge in question. The brand is Sadec. We use it constantly in the house as a drinks fridge. The ice on the bar stays much the same, regardless of what power it is using. Its pretty battered, rust holes in the front, and rust bubbling in other places. Hinges are stuffed, It doesnt look pretty, but Im after its ability to keep stuff cold, not look pretty.

A couple more.

Thanks for that. The pics certainly helped - people on others forums I've browsed have said about the fan trick, but haven't described where they fit them.

Would a three way work as a freezer at home on 240V or would that be asking too much of it??? It'd make the missus alittle happier about spending money if I could buy something with more than one purpose!! Just a thought, thanks for any replies...

Just a quick heads up to save pissed off beer drinkers later.....
The 35l jobbies getting around for $400 odd bucks are fridges - not freezers.
I have one and it is great for keeping veggies/baby food and ham cool at around 4 deg.

If you decide to put 2 six packs in it to cool it will take at least all night to get down to temp if not longer.

They aren't powerhouses, but the price reflects this. (I got a companion one for $350.00)

IMHO they are a great thing for camping in one spot for a week to keep some food in. Beer drinkers will still require ice or a compressor fridge to keep up with any kind of thirst.

Hope this helps

We've had a three way Chescold FRIDGE now for three years, and IOHO the bloody thing is the ants pants.
Coupla tricks to get the best from it.

Plug it in at least 24 hrs prior to departure on 240 volts, place all you intended contents in fridge as well.
Our has a divider wall that allows it to be used as fridge/freezer, all freezer foods should be well frozen BEFORE placing in freezer compartment, similarly all fridge stuff must also be first cooled down before placing in fridge section.

IF, there is room in both sections after filling with required stuff, fill this blank space with a wine bladder,(empty of course) blown up with air just enough to fill the vacant space.
This prevents cold air escaping ever time you open the lid.
When contents get low in fridge/freezer, inflate bladder more to take up slack.
This idea also prevent contents from become mashed when negotiating bumpy roads.

We have a "HOT WIRE" fitted to the battery providing 12 volts for the running of the frdige in transit, however, should the engine be shut off, the power source will also be shut off via a relay, thus preventing flat battery.

Thing to remember with these fridges, is when using 12 volts or 240 volts, they use power CONSTANTLY, NOT like a compressor fridge which shuts off once temp has been reached.

For camp sites they are invaluable and the BEST option energy wise/cost wise, plus they are also so silent it's blissful, until some idiot in the next camp, cranks up his generator to imoress the folks.
A 5 kg bottle of gas lasts us 8 days, you can't get any more economical then that.

If my old faithfull Chescold ever dies I am not going to chase prices nor am I going to ask advice on the net nor will I procrastinate I will just get it fixed no matter what the cost. Totally out of character for me.

It's been abused, dropped from tailgates twice, backed over and even partly submerged but it still goes like when It was bought, 12v operation can be helped along with very decent wiring and it will see -5deg when traveling in the car on a long drive, 240 does OK always and gas it is possible to see -16 to -19 believe it or not! although that is the top of the food measurement down the bottom the meat is well frozen but warmer.

Fan mod is a great idea to help speed things up, mine has a thermostat so I thought it did cycle somehow, all I know for sure is it will flatten a car battery in no time!

For engle style trips like up to 3 dayers and traveling I use a good esky and ice made at home. Actually the esky replaced a near new engle I bought then sold.

cheers fnq