Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Question for the gurus.

Talking about the idler box, the round thing mounted to my chassis up the front drivers side.
The nut on the bottom should be how tight???

Does it need to be tensioned up or should it be as tight as possible??

it was realy really loose and i have been getting a wicked shudder in the front which wasnt helped by it being loose im sure.

cheers for all help

Tony

the nut on the bottom shold be mega tight, it is holding the bellcrank on to the idler shaft! if the bellcrank (relay arm, whatever you want to call it) was loose then you've probably damaged the spine in the arm or on the shaft, but usually they are very hard to get off even on purpose so not likely even if the nut is a bit loose.

you adjust the slop in the idler box with the nut on the top of the top plug, the procedure is undo the bolt in the centre, wind the plug down until it bottoms, wind it back one quarter turn, and reinstall the bolt making sure the plug doesn't turn. unfortunately if they run loose for any length of time, there is a conical shim/bush inside that gets all flogged out, if this bush is damaged it is impossible to properly adjust the preload/free play in the idler box.

might be worth pulling it apart to see if there is any damage.

does this help?

cheers

Brian

The nut should only tighten up so far as the shaft is slightly tapered in the spline if it has been loose it may have worn the spline but it should grip further up if it's not that bad repair kits are about $50 comes with new shaft.

cheers for that guys.

well this was mega loose!

i will try to tighten the bastard up and pack it with grease and hope for the best.

if its still no good then i will get a kit and reco.

but it wasnt so much the slop it was the violent shaking left to right when i go downhill at around 50-80kph.
it stops when i hit the brakes but its a bit scarey.

i hope it all works out fine! ok i will go home and tighten the top and bottom and see how that goes.

layton wasnt too sure how tight it should be last night, so he didnt do it up super tight just incase.
but already the steering feels heaps more direct.

DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:but it wasnt so much the slop it was the violent shaking left to right when i go downhill at around 50-80kph.
it stops when i hit the brakes but its a bit scarey.

jack it up and check the wheel bearings too eh?

Brian cheers mate.

I will give the wheel bearing a check, thats what layton said also.

thanks and keep the tips coming.

Seeing you stole that job i wanted

you should have enuff coin to get some power steer bro

u wont regret it

wif ur little computer boy arms u need it

I say it is time to go to 60 series power steer....best thing I did on my 40

Yeah you could be onto somethign with the power steer.

and after driving shorty40s last weekend im a huge fan of power steering.
on 6 pound with 38s his turns twice as easy as my 35s on full air.

and johnny they got the best man for the job hehehehee. get to tafe and finish and you will carve it up!

hey, if you'll excuse the derail... what can you guys tell me about making the bracket for mounting the 60 series p/steer box? bloke at the wreckers said it's not too hard to do....
cheers, wes

Well i tightened it up and vibration is still there but not as bad so maybe its wheel bearings.

something in the front end is making a click click now.
more noticeable in low range.
it was clicking every few seconds, and mostly when on or off the gas.

what would that be???
front drive shaft feels like it has a bit of play between the 2 pieces.

any suggestions???

I have also be getting really bad shakes in the front. If i hat any bumps it sends the wheels into and uncontrollable shake and it scares the shit outa me, but the shake doesnt come through the steering wheel to bad, could this be cause by rooted tie rod ends as the relay arm looks to have almost no play.....will check wheel beaings as well.

manwith40series+guitar=:) wrote:hey, if you'll excuse the derail... what can you guys tell me about making the bracket for mounting the 60 series p/steer box? bloke at the wreckers said it's not too hard to do....
cheers, wes

to do it right, you need to make up some stiffening plates for either side of the chassis out of 1/4" (6mm) steel plate, and crush sleeves to go through the chassis where the bolts go through. it all needs to be welded together. I wouldn't call it "hard" but you need a bit of gear to make it all go together - big grinder to cut the plates out, drills, welder etc. I've never done it on a 40 but imagine there is a bit of body cutting or lifting required, and mods to the steering column.