Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The new clutch is bolted onto the machined flywheel and the gearbox is hanging from a block and tackle via a beam through the front doors.

I just cant get the thing up and forward enough for the gearbox input shaft to go cleanly through the center of the clutch without it fouling on the clutch fingers. The body around the bellhousing wont let the gearbox go up enough. This is really frustrating me and if theres a trick to this, I'd like to hear about it.

Thanks

try jacking the front of the motor up

Brad

maybe turn the box on its side then once its in spin it back round.
just a guess as i have never done one.

Ok. This is what i did. ( 2 inch body lift on the GQ)

I used a skateboard on top of my trolley jack to get the gearbox to the leverage i wanted.

I had a mate hold the gearbox in place on the trolley jack so it didnt fall off.

One mate held onto the handbrake drum to TURN it around to get the splines to line up when pushing the gearbox in.

I noticed that the motor did indeed need to be at an angle to get the gearbox in properly.

Without the gearbox in place the motor is able to be tilted left and right on the mounts (be careful not to break the mounts)

Just loosen the mounts but dont take them off.

And slowly give the engine a lift at the front end to get it at an angle to get the gearbox to line up

This is a job for 3 or more people really.. So get all ya mates around to give ya a hand

TOM

Undo your body bolts and jack the body up then support it high enough to clear so you can fit the box ,my car has a 3 1/4 body lift and that gave enough room to put the gearbox straight back in with just a small amount of rear down angle on the box also makes getting at the top bolts easier

The back of the engine needs to be lowered as it does sit on a slight angle in its normal position towards the rear as previously mentioned. You need to lower the rear of the engine just enough ,without destroying the engine mounts, then the gearbox should bolt up ok. It will also make accessing the top bellhousing bolts easier.

Nick

I got it in. On my own!

Ended up cutting the exhaust pipe to allow the engine to tilt back far enough. (Couldnt be bothered unbolting the extractors)

Hope I dont have to do this again in a hurry.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

Mark2 wrote:Ended up cutting the exhaust pipe to allow the engine to tilt back far enough. (Couldnt be bothered unbolting the extractors)

bogged wrote:

Mark2 wrote:Ended up cutting the exhaust pipe to allow the engine to tilt back far enough. (Couldnt be bothered unbolting the extractors)

does that mean you're up for a new exhaust pipe???

GQ wrote:does that mean you're up for a new exhaust pipe???

thats what I was thinkin... J&H McBodge

I support the back of the motor on another jack - mq with chev, but the principal is similar, i also used a jig to hold the gearbox on a large trolley jack, 1 person job, just have to stuff around raising and lowering jacks abit, but if it came out it will go back in, just constantly check nothing is fouling on anything - clutch fork, cables etc good luck

bogged wrote:

GQ wrote:does that mean you're up for a new exhaust pipe???

thats what I was thinkin... J&H McBodge

No, not at all. $20 for the exhaust shop to weld a 4" sleeve where the cut was. Much quicker than unbolting/ refitting extractors, risking broken exhaust studs etc. I wired an old soup can over the cut to drive it to the exhaust shop. Would definitly do it this way again

bogged wrote: J&H McBodge

Thats my OTHER alias