Outer Limits 4x4 Board

OK I thought I would start this thread as "THE" solid axle swap thread to help me and others who want to do this.

If you have done it to your lux post up the details on what you did and pics when they are back working.
Springs, How much lift, steering, front crossmember, shackle mount below or in frame, shackle length, widetrack kit, shockie mounts, what size tyres you are running etc etc.

My plans so far are
Custom front spring packs based on SA rears
About 4 inches of lift max
2 inch dropped crossmember
M+M high steer
Braced and shaved diff
High pinion diff with 4.88s and ARB
ORI widetrack kit
Snake shockie hoops
Dual transfers and marks low gears in back case
Tyres at the moment Im thinking Q78 swampers (or maybe try and fit 38x12.5 )

Paul.

Here are some links to various SAS related stuff
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/sas/
http://www.aor4x4.com/ifsconv.htm
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=293284
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=204923
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265669
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/mini_frontsusp1/
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat. ... art=1&vc=1
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/8895/SASpics.html
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/solidaxle/
http://bcoffroad.250x.com/axleswap1st.html

One of the things Im trying to work out currently is front diff castor angle.
What is the best way of mounting the shackles, through the frame or under?
Standard length or extended?
With the rear springs in front and the dropped front crossmember what will give me the best castor and still work well (flex)?
Paul.

if u drop the front cross member and not go extended or atleast move shackles underneath the chassis ur front diff will be at a bad angle for diff oil changes etc..... as i ran into this with droped front cross member.

cheers
simon

Draining the front diff oil doesnt really worry me as you can always jack it up or whatever. Besides after I chop off my drain plug when I shave the diff I will be draining the oil out the stud holes and it will be a fun job anyway .
What I worry about more is how the lux is going to handle on the road in regards to castor angle.
Paul.

Why are you going so low in the transfer with only 35.5" or 38"

I have the lower gears in the lux allready and I got a good deal on a dual adaptor.
Paul.

Cut and rotate your knucles while you have the housing out to give u a better castor angle?

If your going a high-pinion diff (from a bundy presumably) why not go coil front... probably about the same amount of work but should end up allot easier to set up correctly.

Naa I want to go with leafs on the front. Its just easier.
I wish I had the money and the knowledge to do a triangulated 4 link rear with coil overs though.
Might have trouble getting coils legaly fitted in WA too.
So leaves all round it is .
Paul.

4sum4 wrote:SAS only works with at least 4" of lift And thats with 2" drop hangers you can get away with 3"s of lift but not much up travel,Mine shackle is standard (85mm) and is mounted under the chassis on a near 45deg angle with SA rears with 2x8mm and 2x4mm leafs and works ok with the clamps closed I get 10" down travel and 2" up travel from the shock and the shackle at full drop isn`t straight yet so more travel to go if I want.And go the H/P it solves alot of problems and you can also rebuild the IFS double Cardon to the same as SA.
And the truck will never handle any better than it was before

could you post some pics of yours 4sum4 i want to do sas too, if you could postb some pics of your crossmember and shackle mounts etc it would be great

OK here is a strange question.
I am going to shave the bottom of my front diff. I will be running a high pinion centre when I do the front conversion. But at the moment all I have is the old low pinion centre that came with the diff.
If I use the low pinion centre to judge clearance of the crownwheel to the bottom of the diff will the crownwheel on the high pinion sit in the same spot?
The way I figure it is that the crownwheel still has to sit in basicly the same spot as it still has the axles through its centre. Am I right?
Paul.

high pinion centres have problems with engine clearence on hiluxs
possibly need to raise the enigne and box slightly.

tuf045 wrote:high pinion centres have problems with engine clearence on hiluxs
possibly need to raise the enigne and box slightly.

Thats not a prob.
I allready have a 40mm drivetrain lift .
Paul.

I done the convertion back in january and never looked back

Here are some general things i used

I used an '84 model diff with a 4.88 open diff centre, '86 model rears in the front with no lift, standard front shackles, ori double flip arm, home made crossmember and shock mounts, and 80 series pittman arm

It took me and a mate 2 full days to do with limited skills but no dramas

We had no dramas with castor angle going through the chassis with the shackles but the original plan was to go under but we changed that idea once getting the diff in and noticing the castor looked to be out by eye after comparing it with another hilux

Over all i gained 4 inches of lift, 17 inches of travel and lost my handling at high speeds

I've had CHEEZY do my solid Hilux swap into my Surf .
It's a 5 link set-up using 5" lifted coils, return to centre steering stabiliser and all the links, panard & steering bars are powder coated red .
It's transformed the little Surf offroad coz she flexes ACE and hardly lifts a wheel now (rear A-arm setup soon to go in) and onroad it's SWEET AS . I'm using long travel Ranchos with the in-cab kit, and my handling is nearly as good as when I had the IFS and I recently did 1200 kms going up to EDEN and I could steer with just 1 finger on the wheel @ 110 kph. That said I don't go fanging into corners like I'm driving a car. Currently running 35" A/T on road and Simex JT/2's on the dirt with 4.8 gears in the diffs.

Here is some food for thought.....My steering over the weekend is starting to get worse especially under brakes. I t goes this way and that, never can tell and you got to fight it if you brake hard. Went over every thing this arvo, nothing appaered to be worn or loose, so I got the missus to turn the wheel hard either way then bingo. The steering box was moving I found cracks (about 4 or 5) in the chassis around the steering box. Faaaaaarrrrrrkkkkk. just what I dont need this week.

So, what caused it? Is it extra stress from the hi-steer, old age (94 model) or the different angles the steering is running after a SAS?

Maybe something to consider in the SAS plan, to strenthen the chassis (ie plate it) around the steering box. Anybody else found this?

Alec

Surfin Alec wrote:Maybe something to consider in the SAS plan, to strenthen the chassis (ie plate it) around the steering box. Anybody else found this?

Look at this thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=29772
Definatly a good idea to plate the chasi as well as crush tubes.
Paul.

Yeah I saw that thread as well but was under the impression that you only needed to do the mod if your converting to an IFS box not if it is allready a factory box mount.
Anyway, its off to Overkill tommorrow for some plating. Will let you know how it turns out.

Alec

I have heard of IFS boxs cracking the frame while still running IFS.
Toyota must just be too cheap to reenforce the frame enough from the factory.

yes you need to plate the chassis regardless, we plated the chassis on my old red hilux, now aza;s it has been running cross over for 12 months now, and no droped hangers

dont put the shackle under the frame, your truck will become to high, no matter what you do with the springs

can anyone post some pics of their sas. i want to do mine myself. i want to get 4in of lift, what springs would you guys recomend, and should i use the weld under chassis type hangers or should i drill the chassis and weld in tubes, also will the steering links that i got with the 85 model diff do the job or will they have to be customised, should i use an 80 series pitman arm or buy one from snake racing

I got pics but can't get them on here