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ifs steer box conversion tips.

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 9:38 am
by Roctoy
if you're going to do it, DO IT PROPERLY THE FIRST TIME!!!!!!

On my way to work yesterday my steering felt a bit funny, as it turned out, the steering box was trying to pull the crush tubes through the chasis and all the inside face of the chasis was cracked.

HUGE THANKS :armsup: goes out to Tony and Sam for helping me re plate and brace the chasis after their work day had finished.
We did it with 6mm steel plate on both sides of the chasis and crush tubes through, fully welded running from the engine mount to the front of the chasis. This will spread the load over a greater area.

If you do this conversion any other way you are kidding yourself and putting yourself and others in danger, this is your steering we're talking about here, it's kind of important! Mine lasted a year in it's old form, i was lucky.

After shots.

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Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 1:00 pm
by HUNTERLUX
yeh but criss every1 pointed out 2 u b4 u left sydney that your p/s box was flexin on the chassis big time :roll:

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 1:34 pm
by STUMPY
what pitman arm are you using?

steering

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 1:58 pm
by Roctoy
HUNTERLUX wrote:yeh but criss every1 pointed out 2 u b4 u left sydney that your p/s box was flexin on the chassis big time :roll:


i know that, and i fixed it as soon as i was in a position to do so, it just happened to be the day after it tore off the chasis. :D

arm

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 2:00 pm
by Roctoy
STUMPY wrote:what pitman arm are you using?

it's an surf arm drilled out and sleved, (it came with the steering box)

a 75 series one would be better in my case because that one has too much drop on it and the springs hit the bottom of the tie rod at full d/side flex.

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 5:44 pm
by HUNTERLUX
why r u going 2 use a 75's instead of a 80's pity

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 9:03 pm
by RUFF
Here are some pics from my conversion-

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This is a 75series arm. How much flater is the 80series arm?

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 9:45 pm
by Scott
Does anyone sell plates like that? All I've seen from shops so far is crush tubes, and I don't feel like cutting the plates out with a hacksaw.

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2004 10:42 pm
by ausyota
So whats the go with pitman arms?
Is flatter better?
Why? So the springs dont hit it when they compress?
What is the best one to fit when I do my hi steer with my SAS?
80, 75, or adaptor for my IFS one?
Paul.

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 7:43 am
by dumbdunce
Scott wrote:Does anyone sell plates like that? All I've seen from shops so far is crush tubes, and I don't feel like cutting the plates out with a hacksaw.


with a 2000W (ie fairly low power) 9" angle grinder it took me less than 10 minutes to cut out and drill a pair of plates for stumpy's conversion, and from memory he loving supplied me with 10 or 12mm plate :shock: so cutting them out of 6mm even with a 100 or 125mm angle grinder shouldn't take long. you need to get the hella mega thin cutting discs (Pferd brand) and then any angle grinder slices through steel like a hot knife through butter. since I discovered these discs I hardly ever touch the oxy to cut, even for chopping up scrap to throw away it's faster and cheaper.

that's some tidy welding there Ruff, you must have a pretty steady hand.


cheers

Brian

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:12 am
by ausyota
dumbdunce wrote: you need to get the hella mega thin cutting discs (Pferd brand) and then any angle grinder slices through steel like a hot knife through butter.

Yeah those 1mm discs for 4 inch grinder rock.
Just a note about them though, when I bought mine I had to buy a steel washer as well to make them clamp down on the grinder shaft because they are so thin.
Paul.

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:18 am
by dumbdunce
ausyota wrote:
dumbdunce wrote: you need to get the hella mega thin cutting discs (Pferd brand) and then any angle grinder slices through steel like a hot knife through butter.

Yeah those 1mm discs for 4 inch grinder rock.
Just a note about them though, when I bought mine I had to buy a steel washer as well to make them clamp down on the grinder shaft because they are so thin.
Paul.


I just flipped the outer clamping nut, or maybe had to skim a little bit off the boss. but yeah some modification needed for some grinders. also they don't like being twisted, but last longer than other discs, don't get hot.

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 9:02 am
by Scott
What do people normally do with the steering shaft when installing an IFS box? Do you extend it, get a longer one, or buy the snake racing extender? Is the snake racing extension long enough?

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 9:13 am
by dumbdunce
Scott wrote:What do people normally do with the steering shaft when installing an IFS box? Do you extend it, get a longer one, or buy the snake racing extender? Is the snake racing extension long enough?


the manual steer shaft is long enough. with Stumpy's conversion, I think we managed with the standard shaft, and from memory his was power steer... there is a bit of stretch in the rag joint but not too much.

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 1:33 pm
by skootin
Has anyone thought about copying these plates onto paper causeyou can get fabshops to do a quantity on profile cutters places like queensland rail have the best rates going usually.
What about a list of parts and mods needed to do a crossover steer conversion. I can help with photo's of all the different pitman arm's.
Lenght's of steering arm's and draglinks.
Steering shaft's to steering boxes should they be collaspable or solid.
Surely between all the brains we can come up with a solution that everyone can use safely to get thru rego in all states.
Places like Snake racing and Superior do the work but are hard to get to if you live over 600klm's away and need vehicle every day.
I have made up 40ser P/Steer kit (79-)useing bolt on parts(toyota) with a collaspable steering shaft which should go thru any inspection.
ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE WITH A BIT OF TEAM WORK

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:37 pm
by RUFF
dumbdunce wrote:that's some tidy welding there Ruff, you must have a pretty steady hand.


The welding on my conversion was done by Sam and most of it was done with a mirror as it was hard to get to. The welding on Chris's was done by me. Its not a nice as Sams but it will do the job fine.


We usually cut 6mm plates to shape with a Jig saw. The plates on Chris's were done with a flame though as it was to late in the afternoon to make to much noise.

Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 9:10 pm
by tomsoffroad
I'm using a 75 pitman arm on my surf (x over Steering) I had to turn a sleeve to addapt the tapered hole to the hilux ball joint. Other than that it works a treat.

Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 8:20 am
by dumbdunce
RUFF wrote:
dumbdunce wrote:that's some tidy welding there Ruff, you must have a pretty steady hand.


The welding on my conversion was done by Sam and most of it was done with a mirror as it was hard to get to. The welding on Chris's was done by me. Its not a nice as Sams but it will do the job fine.


props to Sam then!

RUFF wrote:We usually cut 6mm plates to shape with a Jig saw. The plates on Chris's were done with a flame though as it was to late in the afternoon to make to much noise.


nah it's never too late to go the grind!! If the neighrbours don't like it, they can move!

Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 5:08 pm
by BOGAN V8
even with 80s pitman arm mine still hits chris and mine is almost in the same spot as yours get the pitman arm drilled out an sleeve it so as the ball joint goes in through the top otherwise tou may snap sterring shaft off and then that would not be funny :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 11:11 pm
by tozook
thanks Roctoy Designfab for starting this topic & stumpy for posting it in the toyota - hilux & 4 runner bible topic

as i'm a but to do the ifs steering conversion and this give's me a good idea of what i need

just one question what gread bolts and what nuts do i use

thanks

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:35 pm
by jimbo jones
dumbdunce wrote:
RUFF wrote:
dumbdunce wrote:that's some tidy welding there Ruff, you must have a pretty steady hand.
The welding on my conversion was done by Sam and most of it was done with a mirror as it was hard to get to. The welding on Chris's was done by me. Its not a nice as Sams but it will do the job fine.
props to Sam then!
RUFF wrote: We usually cut 6mm plates to shape with a Jig saw. The plates on Chris's were done with a flame though as it was to late in the afternoon to make to much noise.
nah it's never too late to go the grind!! If the neighrbours don't like it, they can move!

My neighrbours hate me couse of all the the noise I make in my shed and so they put the house on the market good riddens bunch of busy body whiners.

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:20 pm
by 4sum4
Scott wrote:Does anyone sell plates like that? All I've seen from shops so far is crush tubes, and I don't feel like cutting the plates out with a hacksaw.
Bubs sells them,

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:24 am
by andyjim243
Time for some pic upgrades!! and some actual step by step fit up details.

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:47 am
by berad
NOTE : it is not legal for on road use and is not something you can unbolt and bolt the stock stuff on.

Cut old box mounting gear off

Clean and prep chassis

Dummy box with steering shaft in place to check everything, locate as close to rad support as you can get it

dummy fit new plates, mark them, drill crush tube holes and fit them, tack the ifs box mounting plates on, temporarily mount box to mounts and check nothing will bind up steering shaft wise etc.

My box is mounted a little on the piss. to give me more room from pitman arm to leaf pack as mine isn't lifted much and have no intentions of doing so.

Once everything is right, remove box etc, weld on the plates, we welded the crush tubes also, paint everything.

You'll need to fit the steering shaft onto the box's spline before mounting the box or its a PITA to get on.

When putting everything back together you need to align the centre of the boxs movement to the wheels being in the straight position, not doing so will not give u 50 left turn 50 right turn.

Then either fit a double arm to the pass side knuckle, or hi steer arm, and purchase relevant rods, tierods etc.

Take it for a wheel alignment.

thats the basic jist of it, but im sure its been explained in greater detail somewhere on here before.

I have pics of the steps and better pics that show everything although i seem to have misplaced them ahah



Image

80 series pitman arm

Image

Image

this photo is upside down but gives you an idea of mounting location that we put it in and works fine.

Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:20 am
by andyjim243
Thanks for the quick response,I'm doing it today after stripping it last night.Thanks again very helpful.
Cheers Andy

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:44 pm
by Roboat
Does already having a bodylift and raised radiator help in getting the ifs box further forward?

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:51 am
by hi_luxmad
Roboat wrote:Does already having a bodylift and raised radiator help in getting the ifs box further forward?
no because it will hit your radiator support panel or your body mount.
you can do as im doing and move the body mount.
make sure you know what your doing though as if you dont do it right you wont get in engineered

Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:36 pm
by Roboat
I don't think i'll really need to go that far forward, seems to work alright for most I guess without mods. Thanks