Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok, here is the story, I just bought this 4WD.

My 93 model Hilux is showing a bit of concern with the temperature gauge reading high temperatures. Whilst driving on the highway for anywhere between 20min to 2 hours, the temperature gauge starts climbing up and up. Last week when I noticed it, it was at 3/4 on the temp gauge, so I put the heater on and it went down, but then shorttly after, it climbed up again and almost into the red!

When I checked the coolant, it was green with a black sooty colour to it. I undid the bottom of the radiator and flushed it with a hose. I thought I got all the black out until I started the engine again.

I'm going to replace the thermostat and give it a good flush out in reverse and see if that improves the temp. There are also spotties in front of the radiator, can this affect it? The other things i can do would be replace the radiator or water pump. What about thermo fans, will this help?

The possibility of a head gasket is small as I've had it checked quickly by noises and other symptoms. If it was a head gasket wouldn't the water be oily black not sooty black?

Please help as I am new to diesel engines and don't want to F**K it!

OK
Not over pressurising?? (coolant loss)
Remove radiator - squirt hose thru fins to clean and clear any debris - replace.
Replace coolant
Replace thermostat
Remove driving lights

Check temp at each step

Report back to forum


Bazzle

bazzle wrote:OK
Not over pressurising?? (coolant loss)
Remove radiator - squirt hose thru fins to clean and clear any debris - replace.
Replace coolant
Replace thermostat
Remove driving lights

Check temp at each step

Report back to forum

Ok will do that this arvo and I'l write back tomorrow, thanks

Its not a turbo is it ??????

stool wrote:Its not a turbo is it ??????

Definately not, especially after the last car (500hp+ skyline), too much stuffing around.

How do you check the clutch fan, do these have one? What do you check for?

open the radator cap while its running and see if water is flowing, you should see water turbulance when you rev the throttle by had if not your thermostat is stuffed , so just pull it out and dont replace it its not needed ne way

Sorry mate I had to ask
I think i read in 4wdmonthly a while ago about packing more grease or some kind of oil in the fan clutch to make the fan work harder
Ive got NFI how though .

when mine had those xact symtems i tried the whole list that bazzle wrote in the end i had a cracked head between the combustion chamber & colant chamber causin the presure 2 escape threw the colant chamber blowing water out of the colant bottle if you were 2 stop the car the pudle was small

If there is soot in there it sounds like head / gasket to me.
You definatly should have a thermostat in there. Buy a new one, they're cheap.
Pull your fan apart (carefully) and put some silicon in there. Just buy some genuine toyota stuff, it's less than $10 for a tube. I put 2 extra in mine.

You should have a thermostat in any modern cooling system.
It often pays to fit the genuine one as well , if the price is sensible.
J Top

spazbot wrote:open the radator cap while its running and see if water is flowing, you should see water turbulance when you rev the throttle by had if not your thermostat is stuffed , so just pull it out and dont replace it its not needed ne way

Not much flow at all, replacing that today, I flushed the entire radiator system with a hose in reverse with the thermostat out. I also started the engine whilst this was going, the amount of black that came out was like black mud. Now after driving around the block a couple of times without the thermostat and just clean fresh water, I flushed again and there was no black at all - just clear water!

HUNTERLUX wrote:when mine had those xact symtems i tried the whole list that bazzle wrote in the end i had a cracked head between the combustion chamber & colant chamber causin the presure 2 escape threw the colant chamber blowing water out of the colant bottle if you were 2 stop the car the pudle was small

What sort of expense did it come to and what did you do?

spazbot wrote:open the radator cap while its running and see if water is flowing, you should see water turbulance when you rev the throttle by had if not your thermostat is stuffed , so just pull it out and dont replace it its not needed ne way

:/

no thermostat would be really good for a diesel on a cold morning.

Shadow wrote:

spazbot wrote:open the radator cap while its running and see if water is flowing, you should see water turbulance when you rev the throttle by had if not your thermostat is stuffed , so just pull it out and dont replace it its not needed ne way

:/

no thermostat would be really good for a diesel on a cold morning.

I sense the sarcasm from shadow, but his sarcasm is correctly applied.

You definately need the thermostat in there, follow bazzles advice.

Spaz, you need a big smack for advice like that to a noob...

well at the same time that i noticed the major melt down i was at skocko
FARK THAT PLACE IS CURSED and i had bocken a valve spring so i only had 3 cylinders until bost wich opened the valve so i original pulled the head off to repair the valve springs seen the cracks wich looked like shattered glass
$1400 later new head springs & all that shyt it was back together no more over heating touch wood

our 92 2.8D lux fouled its radiator core up as a result of switching from toyota red coolant to tectaloy green- caused a precipitaiton which 60% blocked the core...


And then there was when the front sump bolts vibrated loose and squirted oil on the bottom pulley and the belts slipped when the aircon was running on a 43 degree day going up the freeway from murray bridge to adelaide....

Ok new update

Replaced thermostat, flushed radiator and put in new coolant! AGGGHHH Still no better, I will replace the radiator today! And then see!

What else could it be?

Just a thought, could the water pump be seized or not working properly so there's no flow???

phippsy wrote:Just a thought, could the water pump be seized or not working properly so there's no flow???

I did feel flow in the top on the radiator and also when the engine is running, the water flows out through the top hose. Not real fast though, but not normal hose speed!

I just priced a water pump $76.00, does that sound about right?

Make sure you've got no bubbles coming out the top of the raditor when you rev it. I drove my swb '81 diesel patrol around for about 12 moths without any thermostat but didn't realise that the head gasket was on the way out. Sold it, the bloke had to source a new head etc$$$. I did however notice the bubbles coming out the top of the raditor and eventually little bits of oil floating around as well.

Worth checkin' out though.

pajero97 wrote:Make sure you've got no bubbles coming out the top of the raditor when you rev it. I drove my swb '81 diesel patrol around for about 12 moths without any thermostat but didn't realise that the head gasket was on the way out. Sold it, the bloke had to source a new head etc$$$. I did however notice the bubbles coming out the top of the raditor and eventually little bits of oil floating around as well.

Worth checkin' out though.

No bubbles when reving at all.

I'd go with the water pump then. The veins can corride after sometime and only be working at half-grunt.

pajero97 wrote:I'd go with the water pump then. The veins can corride after sometime and only be working at half-grunt.

Too late, just bought the new radiator - $360 and I will fit it tonight! If it is the water pump, then i will get that tomorrow, if all this aint work, then off with the head to inspect and replace if need be!

nismo_simo wrote:

pajero97 wrote:I'd go with the water pump then. The veins can corride after sometime and only be working at half-grunt.

Too late, just bought the new radiator - $360 and I will fit it tonight! If it is the water pump, then i will get that tomorrow, if all this aint work, then off with the head to inspect and replace if need be!

before you do .. it may be worthwhile going to someone in your area that knows these trucks. Get em to take a look and give you an expert opinion on whats going on instead of spending huge $$ on replacig parts .. you could have a blockage in the exhaust, to much or to little fuel etc .. both will cause overheating and gutlessness .. but if you have not driven many of these vehicles you may not not realise how gutless it is etc ..

Check the viscous coupling. When the engine is hot there should be resistance to turning the fan with the engine off.
J Top