Outer Limits 4x4 Board

After some advice to do with a two inch body lift on a 60. I'll be attempting the work myself but have decided on buying a pre made kit rather than stuffing around trying to work out which materials to use etc. Any suggestions on who to use (I'm in Sydney)? What is a fair price to pay? I've seen prices of around the $400 mark but it seems a bit steep for a few body blocks and bolts...

Also, I know I should be able to fit 35's (Already have 2' in the suspension) but do you think I could stretch it to 36's? I'm pretty keen on the extreme trekker II's!
Thanks a lot - Simon

i think the superior kit is $280 for 2" body lift kit.

or $22 per block at TJM, and BBM

Yeah, that sounds a bit more like it. I'll give them a call.
Any info on the 36's? Will they fit? Want to get it all up and running in the next few weeks.

Howdy,
I have a 60 with OME springs (about 2" lift) and a 2" body lift and 35's fit Ok but you have to grind the nut inside the front guard down so the tyres don't catch. I also have 35X11.5 centipedes which measure closer to 36" and they kinda fit, they rub on the front of the front wheel arch, but only just under full compression.

Righto thanks for that, sounds like the extreme trekker 36's are a no go then. I'll probably go the 35'' MTR's, I don't really want to go any bigger than 2'' body lift. Did you run into any major probs with the body lift on yours?

ha, exxxcellent... I just came on to post a question about bodylifting a 60series...

Coogee, i seen a wicked 60 the other day, looked good with 35x10.5r15 ET's, which i think are a great size.

What extra do you get in a bodylift kit over just buying blocks seperate, or making them yourself...

Would be interested in knowing what else needs to be adjusted in lifting it 40-50mm...

Cheers
Lee.

i sell 50mm blocks for $12ea + bolts ....
12 blocks needed for 60# ......

i can also do any length body block u need (40mm - 25mm)

I have body lifted a few HJ60's. They are pretty straight forward and should be very similar to an FJ.

Just 6 bolts either side. The only things you need to think about other than the blocks is the:

1) Radiator. You will either need to drop the fan shroud 2 inches or drop the radiator 2 inches. I found it easier to drop the radiator. A bit of careful grinding saw that done in about an hour.

2) On the vacuum operated transfer case models, you need to swap a few of the vacuum lines around because they dont have quite enough length in them. If you look around the bonnet, you will find little rubber lines running from various vacuum solenoids. I think from memory on mine i needed to swap one line off the transfer case lines for one over near the airconditioning compressor. It was about 2 inches longer.

3) I found that on the earlier 60 with the non vacuum assisted transfer case, we needed to cut a little bit of the floor out around the low range selector because it fouled on the body. Others have gotten away with this by slightly reshaping the selector with an oxy. On the vacuum assisted models, it wont foul with only a 2 inch body lift as the selector is a straight shift rather than an L shift.

4) Just loosen of the slip joint for the steering column, it will move when you jack it up.

5) Just keep an eye on the brake and clutch lines to make sure they stretch out without kinking.

I think thats about it from memory.

Hope that helps.

$20 per block + bolt is about right, make sure you pull out an original bolt and make sure you get the RIGHT bolts for the lift, can be embarasing
Tiny

carts wrote:On the vacuum operated transfer case models, you need to swap a few of the vacuum lines around because they dont have quite enough length in them.

I had no dramas there, plenty of length. I also cut and extended both gear levers to get them back to 'normal' height again so the rubber boots fitted properly. Did similar with the radiator by cutting and extending the lower mounts, drilling a new hole for the top bolts. I've seen some who have just cut the bottom out of the shroud, but that's a pretty important part of your cooling system - best to leave alone.

Carts and Quick60, thanks heaps for your replies - I think I would have been flying a bit blind by the sounds of it, thats a big help. Should be doing the work in two weeks so i'll keep you 'posted'.
Lee, I think most kits come with all the blocks (correct diamater etc) plus all of the bolts (correct length) and washers etc. Just takes out a bit of the hassle in my eyes. Once thats done I just have to decide on tyres, leaning towards MTR's but just concerned about their mud clearing abilities although anything 35'' should be a big improvement over the bald 31'' desert duelers i've got at the moment!

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=30760

Try This.

Hey rockhopper...

R ur blocks poly?


CheeRs

4WRNING wrote:Hey rockhopper...

R ur blocks poly?


CheeRs

yes .
but i use a new product that is much better than what other shops are selling .....
the people who make the polly nylon stick .. made it for bearing materal .
and when used as body block , they can break - fall to bits .

So i rang up the factory who make the nylon stick . and asked them if they could make a product that can be used for body blocks.
after a bit of time the started making a product exclusivly for L.C. 4X4 .
that can handle inpact and presser .. and also have a small amount of give..
it is avable in 50 to 60mm dia and in any length u want uptp 100mm long
i surgest u only do a max of 50mm body lift to stay leagal..

and any hole size u need ...
custom made to suit your needs ......

from $10-00 ea + bolts ......

send a pm if u need any more info ......
i am also looking at wholesaling kits to 4x4 shop aust wide ....

Whats the best diameter of block for the 60. Wider the better im guessing. What are the alluminium ones like. Better/worse?

Oh, and almost forgot. Who supplies these alluminium ones in victoria these days..



Thaaanks.

Sorry to bring this back up...

Snake Racing do the alloy kit $380 and Superior do the Polyurethane Kit (which have the crush tubes) for $280.

Comments? Is there better stuff to make them yourself available?

Most are 60mm in diameter, have read that 75mm is prefered for a HJ60.

I've use 75mm dia alloy blocks 50mm high no problems putting in. Only had to heat the transfer lever & bend about 10mm made blocks myself cost about $120/m for material. Took about 4-5 hours to do.
Dan

^ was that on a 60series?

Did you need to use crush tubes, or does the block hold up well by itsself?


Very keen on this, mainly to get the rear end up off the ground...

HJ 61 with 12HT yes still used the crush tubes went up 1 size in bolts except the front 2 need 4 - 180mm & 8 - 150mm cost about $100 for bolts & locknuts Back 2 have to go in upside down can't get in the right way to long. I think i only had to drill 4 holes and lowered the radiator best way i think very easy 2 do. Have done a few BL now 2" hilux 3" hilux 2" 79 series & 2" 61 series about to do a 3ltr hilux & a swb mav.