Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just thought I would throw a thought in for some feed back.
I have trouble with my old truck getting huge lean angles on off camber declines,and side angles.
I was toying with the idea of running hydrolic bump stops that i can adjust from inside the cabin whilst on the move.
Has anyone tried or thought about this option.
Thanks for any feedback.

overkill wrote:I have trouble with my old truck getting huge lean angles on off camber declines,and side angles.

No SHIT


I have seen these used in offroad racing and they may work to level you up a little but i reckon the best thing to fix the probs you had at TTC is to control your down travel.If the spring is just going to fall away then you are more than likely going on your side with uncontroled droop. If down travel is controled than before the spring falls right away it starts to pull down on the body to keep it level.

In my opinion when going 1/4 eleptic the front of the spring needs to be captive not on a pivot so the spring just falls away.If its captive than after the spring has gone its full travel and starts to arch the other way it will pull down on the body and make it more stable.

In my opinion when going 1/4 eleptic the front of the spring needs to be captive not on a pivot so the spring just falls away.If its captive than after the spring has gone its full travel and starts to arch the other way it will pull down on the body and make it more stable.

RUFF thats pretty hi tech I think you,ve been hanging around the booty fab holiday resort too much.You are starting to sound like an engineer

Dont worry Mick we will convert you soon too

Tell you what, you give me the non wanted amount of wheel travel so your truck stays level, I'll gladly take it off your hands if ya don't want/need it

I still like the back-to-front anti-rock swaybar on the back idea..

The new springs we are using in the rear the bush actually has to be twisted to let the spring drop so this may reduce the ease of the spring dropping. I also like the sway bar that Wendle is talking about I just don't know if I have to much travel for it to work.
SAM

Wendle wrote:I still like the back-to-front anti-rock swaybar on the back idea..

What would that one be??

Sam

umm, yeah... whatever you use to link the end of the swaybar arm thingie to the axle would need a lot of side to side movement. At full droop the mounting point would have to be moving a long way towards the centre-line of the truck??

How did you go with that LH tap??

overkill wrote:Just thought I would throw a thought in for some feed back.
I have trouble with my old truck getting huge lean angles on off camber declines,and side angles.

The best think about using a 1/4 elliptic springs is that you can choose the comnpression spring rate and the extension spring rate independently. The leaves on top of the main leaf set the compression and the leaves on the bottom set the extension spring rate. This works if you have the leaf pack totally clamped at the chassis end and not pivoting (carnt remember how yours is)

IMO you need to have some sort of extension spring rate so that as the axle moves away from the chassis the axle pulls on the chassis (reverse pull).

Another way to get reverse pull would be to run an anti rock type sway bar. This is what most coil over guys do in the states.

Sam

RUFF wrote:

overkill wrote:I have trouble with my old truck getting huge lean angles on off camber declines,and side angles.

No SHIT


I have seen these used in offroad racing and they may work to level you up a little but i reckon the best thing to fix the probs you had at TTC is to control your down travel.If the spring is just going to fall away then you are more than likely going on your side with uncontroled droop. If down travel is controled than before the spring falls right away it starts to pull down on the body to keep it level.

In my opinion when going 1/4 eleptic the front of the spring needs to be captive not on a pivot so the spring just falls away.If its captive than after the spring has gone its full travel and starts to arch the other way it will pull down on the body and make it more stable.

sounds like sams idea

hey ruff what happens if the shock absorber is what pulls on the chassis? will this work??

What would that one be??

Sam

It is a swaybar setup designed for the front of a jeep that still allows for quite a bit of travel. Works with a torsion bar across the winch cradle area on a jeep and long arms running back to the axle..

sounds like sams idea

hey ruff what happens if the shock absorber is what pulls on the chassis? will this work??

It would to an extent but it wont pull down as there is no spring to it, it would only rely on the weight of the vehicle not the rate of the spring.

And sorry Bj but some of us think for ourselves and dont just tell everyone we thought of it first

Yep - that would work also...sounds like a currie anti rock sway bar.

But I would do it with leaves on the bottom of the spring pack. You would be able to adjust it better here without screwing with the upward travel.

Sam

Yep - that would work also...sounds like a currie anti rock sway bar.

That is the exact animal

RUFF wrote:
It would to an extent but it wont pull down as there is no spring to it, it would only rely on the weight of the vehicle not the rate of the spring.

And sorry Bj but some of us think for ourselves and dont just tell everyone we thought of it first

what did i think of first? and what thinking of the above was yours?
i only understood that concept after sam explained it to me!
and i dont even try to argue for or against any part of it, i dont really understand it that well at all

how would the shock absorber bottoming out rely on the weight of the vehicle?
wouldnt it rely on the weight of the axle?

THEN in that case wouldnt YOUR (or sams) theory rely on the weight of the axle to keep the body roll of the vehicle in check?

SO then, what is wrong with it?

Wendle wrote:

Yep - that would work also...sounds like a currie anti rock sway bar.

That is the exact animal

i was thinking of this beast with what carlton said

I am fitting a similar setup to a mates rig ATM, it is a simple design with one ram, the only trick realy being the "float valve" for free travel when not required and the priority "on demand" fluid pressure tapped of the power pump which is activated only when required , in order to keep the pumping system as simple as possible. I do have a full Hydraulic schematic available if you are interested in this system?? The design is also easily adapted to fully auto self leveling with the addition of a cetop3 DCV (directional control valve - detent removed) and pendulum.

Greg...

The (pink) Rod in the pic is a torque rod eg. front IFS which allows for movement of the diff even under "driven" articulation, which is something most systems dont allow for.!! Also the beauty that it can be adapted to most 3link designs....

Greg, gotta get myself up to your place an have a look a some of this mad stuff you are working on...

that looks cool

Awesome.. That is so simple & logical it has to work.

That's gold. Can you draw one with the self levelling components as well?

He did. Look at how the green link is gonna lever the pink arm & try and move the blue & pink ram as the yellow axle rotates around the blue a-frame. But don't cut the red wire.

Carlton, what you have descibed is the mechanism as drawn.

I would say that the self levelling feature is an active system that uses a pendulum to detect the lean / angle of the chassis with respect to a vertical axis. The difference in angle between a verically hanging pendulum and the angle of the chassis to that pendulum would be detected by a sensor.

The self-levelling system will automatically control the ram to act to bring the chassis level to a horizontal plane, say for example on a side-slope or under cornering forces.

It is "smart" swaybar.

What a brilliant idea.

N*A*M wrote:That's gold. Can you draw one with the self levelling components as well?

uhhh yeah :wink:

Wendle wrote:He did. Look at how the green link is gonna lever the pink arm & try and move the blue & pink ram as the yellow axle rotates around the blue a-frame. But don't cut the red wire.

:rainbow:

to me its all as grey as a navy toilet!!

cause my curtains are faded and my eyes are colourblind!!

speaking of the navy

Curtains ROFL... My flight up there only takes 45 minutes because of your curtain fading, cow confusing time system.....

YES JK, your pretty close,
in "float" mode you can place an pressure compensated flow control which dampens fluid travel giving a swaybay effect yet with full travel available. In "locked" mode the torsional properties of the rod come into play , allowing that "Go-Kart" type of ride for gymkanas or just cutting sick! Your right about the pendulem effect if provides corrective flow to the ram until horizontal chassis alignment is returned..
There are other feature possibilities, it just costs $, but the initial self leveling setup would cost less than 1grand if you had a bit of spanner savvy....


Greg

mmm... modes... mmm...


I'll be up to see this running once you have it all sorted 8)