Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey I have seen afew images of some RRs that seem to have the rear diff 10-12" (maybe more) further back than the standard position. I not sure if anyone on here has done it (except the haultech boys)

I figure that to do this you can use your original chassis link mounts, but you would have to extend the rear trailing arms and make up some new arms for the aframe (i think this is the easy part).

The harder part and the Qs that are still unknown are the process of moving the mounts for the springs on the chassis.
The chassis curves down directly after the rear diff so bump stops will be alot closer together than usually and there fore may have to be shaved to allow some up travel.
Now also because the chassis curves down the original spring mount cant be fully welded as some sections have no chassis to contact with. What do people do to over come this?

And lastly the fuel tank ? its obviously in the way....... a custom jobby is gonne be lotsa $ and It cant be moved forward as the aframe and driveshafts are there..... What is the usual way of overcoming all this ?

The fuel tank can easily be raised into the rear storage area but I really want to keep as much room there as possible (hence why I am not looking into a bobtail conversion)

I wanna get as much feedback on the extending process as I wouldnt mind giving it a go sum day. And the input from you guys is sure to spark some great ideas.
If anyone knows of someone i can contact that has done this and may have pics etc it would also be much aprreciated.

Cheers
Anthony

Easy. get a Defender.

Maxtd5def wrote:Easy. get a Defender.

I actually thought about the 110 chassis......

There was a Rangerover classic model with 110 inch wheelbase and wider rear doors. Cant remember what it was called. some wank pretentious name like heritage or anniversary, whatever.
bill.

daddylonglegs wrote:There was a Rangerover classic model with 110 inch wheelbase and wider rear doors. Cant remember what it was called. some wank pretentious name like heritage or anniversary, whatever.
bill.

LSE. Extra wheelbase was in the rear seat foot area.

daddylonglegs wrote: some wank pretentious name like heritage or anniversary, whatever.
bill.

Love it Bill

I thought the LSE was 108" like P38 - I could be wrong of course !

Tom

ummm....WHY???


isn't the point of the RR the fact it is 100" long and is a good "happy medium" length for all obsticals?? not too long but not too short.

you would have to tub the rear. you would cut the curvy back part off chassis and run 2 straight rails out and that would solve alot of the problems, just make up custom tanks or run gas or acouple of smaller tanks

Sorry for spelling it's LATE

RaginRover wrote:

daddylonglegs wrote: some wank pretentious name like heritage or anniversary, whatever.
bill.

Love it Bill

I thought the LSE was 108" like P38 - I could be wrong of course !

Tom

Tom wins - I'm sure it was 108" too.

ISUZUROVER wrote:

RaginRover wrote:

daddylonglegs wrote: some wank pretentious name like heritage or anniversary, whatever.
bill.

Love it Bill

I thought the LSE was 108" like P38 - I could be wrong of course !

Tom

Tom wins - I'm sure it was 108" too.

yes the lse was the test mule for the P38.

Michael.

I thought that straightening the curved bit of the chassis was gonna be the answer to part of it.
I like this sorta langth on this unknown RR somewhere in iceland i think

AnthonyP wrote:I like this sorta langth on this unknown RR somewhere in iceland i think

That looks pretty cool, certainly improves the departure angle!

I think that with 38s the 100" wheelbase of current will be alittle short, but not by much. And yes as you have commented it is pretty neat looking, and also involves less rear door chopin .
I was thinking that it could be done without removing the curved end section of the chassis but obviously not. If i can figure a suitable way to position a decent fuel tank I will certainly consider the extension.

As in aprrox april next year I am hoping to take the car off the road and do some bootyfab. I wanna fit 38s, the crawler box, body lift, lower the spring lift, and might even sell the MD axles and go for the toy centre conversion.

With 38's I'd be more concerned about width than length. Heavily offset rims are an option but thats a lot of weight to be putting on the wheel bearings.
Relative strength would be approximately the same between 35's with MD stuff and 38's with Toy gear.
And i recommend you piss off that tired 3.5 if you want to run 38's!!!!

My 3.5 is back on track (perfomance wise, not fuel wise) and I will only get the 38s when i know the crawler unit is gonna be available .
And yeah i think my wheel bearings would def hate me