Outer Limits 4x4 Board

what has everyone done to there series rovers....minor to the extreme...i have a 72 IIa SWB with every thing stock right now...my short term plans would be either work with the engine thats there...or consider a holden conv. hows the strengh of the stock driveline...what size meats do you think would be the maxx to put on it...
ill attatch pix in a minute

Some of my mods (1968 109" IIA ex-army), 2.25D

Modified semi-elliptic springs for more travel
Suffix B transfer gears (49:1 first low instead of 40:1)
Salisbury rear and Stage 1 V8 front axle (with 4.7:1 centre)
Maxi-Drive rear diff lock

I run 33's with this setup and have only broken a front 4.7:1 R&P and a rear crappy aftermarket 24 spline axle before I fitted the Maxi-Drive - I don't have much faith in the 10 spline front inners, but they will be going soon.

I would never do a holden conversion... but that is just my 2-cents.

If you want stronger axles and diffs it would be worth considering the toyota diff centre conversion.

I've changed the whole axles over to Toyota. The front axle bolted in though the steering needs a Xover conversion. Rear is new perches and bolt up. I'm still finishing the conversion though. I've done this sprung over and pulled out a stack of leaves so far, though you could spring it under as normal.

These give a 4.88 ratio, and stronger diffs, axles and CV's. Cost me $300 I think for both axles.

slunnie

didn't know you had that rig, would be keen to come have alook

No worries DAS, I'm keen to check out your latest mods also.

[quote="Slunnie"]I've changed the whole axles over to Toyota. The front axle bolted in though the steering needs a Xover conversion. Rear is new perches and bolt up. I'm still finishing the conversion though. :oops: I've done this sprung over and pulled out a stack of leaves so far, though you could spring it under as normal.

These give a 4.88 ratio, and stronger diffs, axles and CV's. Cost me $300 I think for both axles.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lowering your ride height on a springover by removing stacks of leaves promotes massive axle tramp off road and under heavy braking. Tried that trick 30 years ago and it was scary. Get your springs reset with 6 inches less free camber (arch).
Bill.

Thanks for this Bill. I assumed that this could be sorted with an anti-wrap bar on the rear. With the braking does this also relate to wrap or is it more to do with the springs pulling flat and altering the axle alignment? Maybe I should change over to coils which has been in the back of my mind.

Yes Slunnie, under brakes the geometry goes from say 3 degrees positive caster to lots of negative caster. if you have to brake while making a turn the oversteer will take your breath away. I think it could be cured with a pair of torque rods leading from the centre of the front axle to brackets under the vicinity of the bumper bar.
Bill.

im keen to do the yota axels...i will be on the look out for some...what years would be good to find?

mad_landie wrote:im keen to do the yota axels...i will be on the look out for some...what years would be good to find?

A mate has some for sale with a rear locker already. Not sure how much he wants but if your interested I will find out for you. He's in Gosford NSW.

yah that would be great...what $$ range do you think were looking...is the full axle or jus tthe inners?

I've modified my chassis a bit for more room in the wheelarches. Got a Salsbury in the rear , strengthenend front shafts, 1:49 suffix B t-case, 2,5 petrol defender engine. 3 leaf front para's 4 leaf rear.(my rig weigs about 2 ton) running 35x12,5 with only breaking a rear shaft now and then (easy to fix on the trail and a lot easier then the preious breaking front shafts.



for more pics you can take a look at my site where all the conversions and modifications are listed too.

Cheers bowy

There are very few physical limitations to what you can do to a LandRover to improve its offroad ability, from mild to extreme(check ''Ultimate Landrover" thread). This Rover forum goes for 58 pages. you are sure to find tech information on just about any modification you can imagine.
Bill.

what about the stock 2.25 is it a strong engine for its size?

it is very hard to kill a 2.25 petrol engine even by abuse and neglect. i boiled my engine bone dry and red hot on two separate occasions at high speed on the freeway due to Rad hose failure .(temp gauges dont work on steam)and after replacing a cooked head gasket it still runs quite well. They are also the only engine I know that can burn vast quantities of oil and still keep running cleanly without fouling the spark plugs or making excessive blue smoke.But no, they do not produce much power or torque for their size, especially by todays standards.My personal opinion is that they perform better with the old Solex carburetors than the later Zeniths.
Bill.

yah it has the solex but it is going to need a overhaul it looks like...i was brainstorming and thot of using a set of 1L bike carbs on it and rejet. ect'.
what should i set the vavles at? 3'tho on the intake 4'tho on the exuast?

As Bill said they are extremely hard to kill. My first 2.25P was abused by god knows how many army drivers, then I overheated it when an aluminium welsh plug corroded through. When I finally pulled it apart (because it was blowing too much oil out the breather) the top compression ring on no3 was broken into 7 pieces (with a few of the pieces embedded in the piston) and the other 3 top compression rings were broken in half.

My Zenith was ok, and my rebuilt 2.25P (second 2.25) with a zenith (in a 109) accelerated better than my dad's 2.25P powered 88" with 32/34 DMTL weber (factory carb for 2.5 petrol 110). I think if you want to change carby then a single stromberg CD is the best option - if you can get one from a 2.6 petrol landie that would be best, otherwise, one from a rangie will work. You have to make an adaptor though, and mount it on the same angle as in the rangie.

what is there all involved with the toyo axle conv? any wider than rover or does it matter what year modle you find?

The axles are wider, but that is not a bad thing.

The front spreing perchs almost line un, but the rears need changing to line up the springs and pinion angle AFAIK.

You would also need to make spacers / adaptors to mound the LR driveshaft to the toyo pinion.

Steering? Slunnie?

Brakes - some form of adaptor, maybe a rangie brake booster.

Dave

what about the toy axles with sua? jsut to have that 4.88 ratio..i think i will be mostly on the beach with this one so i would prefer low gearing

I have also seen a MQ Patrol diff conversion, also using the MQ Patrol gearbox mated to Holden 6 cyl, a bulletproof combination.
Head for stronger axles anyway and get decent brakes at the same time you don't have to adjust monthly, a locker or good LSD will also be cheaper too. Factory MQ rear LSD is second only to GQ rear in my opinion, and my tightened MQ rear in the front of my GQ outperformed the factory rear, till I fitted the air locker rear.

Holdens 186 is good if set up right, Nissan SD33 turbo diesel could be fun to with the Patrol box behind it.

There's still some stuff about my conversion on my webpage.

DaveS3 wrote:The axles are wider, but that is not a bad thing.

The front spreing perchs almost line un, but the rears need changing to line up the springs and pinion angle AFAIK.

You would also need to make spacers / adaptors to mound the LR driveshaft to the toyo pinion.

Steering? Slunnie?

Brakes - some form of adaptor, maybe a rangie brake booster.

Dave

Only 5 months late. Change it over to a Xover steer setup, but I dont think the ORI/Chaos or whatever they are systems will work due to heights. Mind you I've never tried them.

Steering with the Toyota axles is pretty straight forward. Factory Rover and Toyota steering links. Btween the front wheels stays as it is. The end of the J arm gets cut off as the old Toyota steering system becomes redundant. Find an old PS link, grind and flip both mating surfaces, then drill out the bolt holes to 22mm. You'll also need to heat it with oxy and flatten the angles to allow more suspension travel, redrill the ball joint hole and ream the taper to suit the rover steering ball joint. Grind the top of the steering arm thats in there and weld the other ontop of it upsidedown. The cones, washers, 6mm spacers and nuts all go down the 22mm hole on reassembly and get done up. This setup has no twist appied to the original studs apart from the factory load at the bottom. The spacers move the bolts up higher so you can rattle them on, but they remain fully on thread.

Pics at:
http://www.d2au.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album05&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=3