The costs are directly porportionate to your abillities like a seesaw !!!
Low abilities = High costs
High abilities = low costs
Basically you'll need......
Bellhousing addaptor ---- cost under $500 for a belhousing. I only use the Castlemain rodshop stuff here because of reputation, strength, & he's only 2 hours away from me !.
For an additional $80 he'll drill it to suit both holden and chev block patterns which gives you an option of either motor choice. There are other makers of such bellhousings listed in the "Bible" under V8 Conversions.
Flywheel ---- I recemend you use a flywheel from the "red holden V8 motor" as they are stronger and heavier unit than later model flywheels, the extra weight will help with engine torque.
A 2nd hand flywheel should be around the $50 mark, you'll also need to have it drilled to suit the chev crank if using a chev engine, cost here is around the $100 mark or 20 mins with a file !!!
Pressure plate ---- I use a "Heavy duty tow pak" holden red motor pressure plate, it bolt straight up to the flywheel !
Clutch plate ---- here i use a 250mm plate from a 99 model TDI nissan, they arent cheap but well worth it !
I have used the std SD33 clutch pak ( pressure & clutch plates) but found that they only last a year or so under heavy duty conditions ( 350 chev + heavy foot !! ) ...... they also dont like water much at all !
If you use the SD33 clutch pak then add $80 for redrilling the flywheel to suit the nissan clutch pak.
Spigot bush ---- Castlemaine rod shop supply a spigot to suit the L28 only, you'll need a mate with a lathe to machine one up to suit the SD33 setup.
The differance is in the gearbox's front shaft, the L28s is 10mm longer and needs to be trimmed back ( angle grinder style !! ) otherwise it rubs hard up against the crank and makes gear changing messy & doesnt do the front shaft any good either !! The opposite is needed for the SD33, its 10mm to short so you need to make an "extended spigot bush" to pickup the front shaft on the SD33 gearbox.
FIT NEW SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDERS FOR THE CLUTCH WHILE DOING THE CONVERSION .......................... trust me, its a pain doing it later on !
Engine mounts ---- The SD33 chassis will require the mounts on the to be cut off and moved back for either the chev or holden motor unless you fit a 5spd box at the same time in which case they need to be moved forward. The std chev to HQ holden mounts work well ($50 for a pair)
Biggest problem is with the holden motor, the oil pump & filter location on that motor is bad when it comes to clearance on the engine mounts on the nissan chassis ........ youlll see what I mean when it comes to fitting time !!
Firewall ------- Here's an ugly ........ if you have a 4spd then find a big hammer, ( phuckin big hammer ) IE: SLEDGE HAMMER and "massage" the firewall, you'll need to gain an inch so that the heads/rockercovers clear ( moreso on the passengers side with the holden motor ). This is why I strongly suggest you fit a 5 spd box as it pushes the motor forward so it clears the firewall with ease. Altering a firewall is a big NO NO for engineering in some states so check before you start massaging it !
Headders ---- the std castiron manifolds do the job ok untill you do a deep river xing. A set of "block huggers" extractors will solve this instantly. Visit the Castlemaine AUTO ELECTRICS site as listed in the bible for further details.
A single 2.5 inch exhaust system works really well and should be around the $350 mark fitted.
Radiator ---- There IS a differance between the ones in MQ/MKs ..... if you have a sd33 with aircon then smile.....you have the right one ! For those wondering what the diff is then try counting the number of cores on a std L28 with out aircon and then counting the number on a SD33 with aircon ( hint --- there are extra cores in the sd33 with aircon radiator
).
If you can solder then changing inlet/outlets for the radiator hoses is childs play, if not find a plumber mate ...... plumbers also have a good selection of copper bends for the bottom outlet
Radiator Cowl & Cooling ---- Here is where trial and error plays a huge part and it would take me all day to list everything so I'll cut it short....
If you go Chev & 5 spd then a std SD33 cowl will fit perfectly PROVIDED you set up the engine height ( engine mounts ) with the radiator & cowl in place
If you go Chev & 4 spd then make a new cowl
If you go Holden and 5 spd make a new cowl
If you go holden and 5 spd make a new cowl.
I hear of ppl having lots of dramas after doing a V8 conversion and keeping the motor cool, I have found that the ONLY way is to run an engine fan with a 16" thermo as a BACKUP.
I've tried......
a single 16" thermo
twin 10" thermos with no engine fan
twin 10" thermos on one side and twin 10" thermos on the other side
twin 10" thermos on one side and a 16" on the other side
All of these failed to cool the motor reliabily enough yet fitting an engine fan did the job to 99% satisfaction, fitting a 16" thermo aswell made it 110% satisfaction or ya money back !
Electrical ---- It takes about 15 mins to have it rewired well enough to start the V8, add and hour or 2 to make it all pretty !
Fuel tank---- straight forward here, dump the diesel and fill with petrol !
For engineering reasons LPG is a must do in some states and this will also depend on the choice of engine too. A later model motor has less emmision restrictions so duel fuel may be an option. Older motors IE red motor holden WILL require straight LPG.
Extras ----- get friendly with the local Autobarn/Autopro/SuperCheap outlets, you'll need to "borrow" several belts, radiator hoses etc when it comes to finding the right combination to suit, then ya return the others !
The painful bits ----- if you have aircon & or pwr steering then you'll need to custom make the mounts for these items...... 6mm steel plate and time is required, they can be a real painfull job at times ( probably the reason why many ppl ditch the aircon completely )
Summary---- a V8 can be fitted in a w/end with ease for the mechanically skilled backyarder, add a day or 3 for a custom cowl, aircon barcket, & pwr str bracket.
You'll need access to a mig or acr welder, plumbers soldering irons, oxy accetelene, and a lathe....... Other than that a good tool kit with both metric and imperial spanners/sockets should see you well into the conversion.
V8 Nissan Patrol ...... once you drive one you wont go back
Kingy
P/S
IF YOU GET STUCK ...........
ASK
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