Outer Limits 4x4 Board

AS I haven't owned a Suzi since the LJ80 20 years ago, I'm after some advice for my son's Drover.

It's running 30x 9.5 BFG, and we wanted to raise it an inch or so so we can remove front sway bar and not have any rubbing.

What is the best design for extending shackles? What size flat bar, what size bolts? What length is best without going overboard?

Any advice warmly received!!

lot of guys seem to run c-channel, 1.5 - 2" longer than factory, high tensile bolts. mine's 2" longer, looks like 10mm plate (maybe... ask bigsteve, he made them) and doesn't seem that bad, cept maybe a lil more bump-steer than stock.

From memory mine are only like 4mm thick, the strength is in the C

10mm is centremeter, I got mine pressed into C, they definately weren't C

PK

I'd personally go with a 2 inch body lift and extended shackles, remove your spring clamps and get him used to its behaviour. Then fit some longer springs, some gears and its all down hill from there.

I have used 3mm sheet metal pressed into 50x25 C channel. They are two inchs over standard. I have bent the crap out of them on the rocks, and my advise would be go with a thicker flat bar. Also looks more standard.

DeWsE wrote:I have used 3mm sheet metal pressed into 50x25 C channel. They are two inchs over standard. I have bent the crap out of them on the rocks, and my advise would be go with a thicker flat bar. Also looks more standard.

Yes but then you wouldn't have the pleasure of hitting your head on the corners

bigsteve wrote:

DeWsE wrote:I have used 3mm sheet metal pressed into 50x25 C channel. They are two inchs over standard. I have bent the crap out of them on the rocks, and my advise would be go with a thicker flat bar. Also looks more standard.

Yes but then you wouldn't have the pleasure of hitting your head on the corners

How did you manage that!

I love hitting my head on things when i'm under the car

Thanks for all that - I was told 8mm flat was probably the go? Bolt with sleeve or welded square tube in the middle?

PK wrote:Thanks for all that - I was told 8mm flat was probably the go? Bolt with sleeve or welded square tube in the middle?

I wouldn't bother sleeving it, they will flex better without.

The reason we use thinner c channel is so they will move sideways more and not just forward and backward

bigsteve wrote:

PK wrote:Thanks for all that - I was told 8mm flat was probably the go? Bolt with sleeve or welded square tube in the middle?

I wouldn't bother sleeving it, they will flex better without.

The reason we use thinner c channel is so they will move sideways more and not just forward and backward

The sideways movement is great for off road and helps the sping life. But for onroad it makes the front quite sloppy.

Good to see you on the net again bigsteve

I now running BigSteves old c-channel shackles on my rig now, and they work well. Its also good to know my head isnt the first ont to loose skin to them when under the rig. THey flex sideways nice too, yet on the road they dont realy make the front end feel much worse. overall i like them and have helped mates build similar shackles with good results.
Layto....

I ran solid 10mm shackles on my first zook, the 4mm c channel ones worked heaps better.

Thanks for all that - so what are the dimensions of the C channel - does it have to be bent up, or can you buy it "off the shelf"? What length is optimum - 2" longer than stock or 3-4" longer than stock for 1 1/2 - 2" of lift?

going more than 2-2.5, gets a bit whack with steering and caster,

extended shackles are not the best way to gain lift, but help to gain wheel travel while gaining a small amout of lift.

Mock