cutting the shell

[brighty]

OK, the 60 series shell I got has started to be stripped down to get ready for the chop.(extra cab) Still have to see the engineer and stuff but just wondering the best way to cut it.. grinder, plasma cutter etc so I can start planning it??? Any help???
Also want to get the back panel fab'd up with edges rolled to suit the contours of the body so it'd be a straight fit n weld job. What would be the easiest way to go about this. Anyone know of shops that'd do this in syd, newy, or central coast????
Cheers,
Brighty.

[spazbot]

get yaswelf a sawzall or air hacksaw

think i saw cheap gmc sawzall copies for bout $90 at bunnings

[J Top]

A grinder with a cutting disc.Gloves,ear muffs,visor for the whole face,not just glasses.
Can you not use the back of the vehicle for the curves,and use the doorway as the back window with a panel accross the bottom.
J Top

[spazbot]

check out the pics of dans 60 in the members section for some ideas

[Mytqik]

The biggest thing when chopping down a shell like that is to measure twice & cut once. Make sure your cutting line is exactly where you want it, as it is a PITA to add sheet metal if you are short.

There would be 2 was I would approch it.

Tack weld some cross bracing on the front side of your cutting line, to maintain its "squareness" I am sure that once you cut the rear portion of the front, it will spring, thus the suggestion for the cross brace.

I would do, corner to corner in both directions, plus a vertical one from centre of floor to centre of roof, as the roof will be the hardest bit to get right.

The other alternative to maintain its "squareness" is to hold off on the cutting & tack weld in your new rear panel. This will ensure that:

A: You are happy with the location of the panel, room in the extra cab etc
B: Easily adjust the panel location to ensure you are happy with A.
C: Keep the whole thing squre during the cutting operation.
D: Stop the roof panel vibrating like a bastard during cutting.

Personally I would do the second option.

[brighty]

thanks all, I prob won't be attackin it till new year but just gettin everthing organised first.... as mytqik said, "measuring is critical"... will be taking my time with that one!!!

[ludacris]

Cut an overhang of 10 cm then line everything up and then start trimming it square. Use a grinder but take it nice and slow and let the grinder do all the work. Start with a 9inch then smaller to be more precise.

[bigsteve]

Cut an overhang of 10 cm then line everything up and then start trimming it square. Use a grinder but take it nice and slow and let the grinder do all the work. Start with a 9inch then smaller to be more precise.

Thats true about the 9inch, it is really easy to get long straight cuts, the 7 inch is also a good comprimise.

I use a cutting disk on the 9 until its worn a little then put it on the 7 for easier operation.

[Sixty]

The 'D' pillars wont be the same height as the 'B' pillar after the cut (roof is curved, so D pillar is lower)

Also, the distance across the body is further than the distance between the D pillars. (body is also tapered inward at the rear)

If I could post pics direct, it would be easier. yeah, me puta numpty.


Al

[brighty]

The 'D' pillars wont be the same height as the 'B' pillar after the cut (roof is curved, so D pillar is lower)

Also, the distance across the body is further than the distance between the D pillars. (body is also tapered inward at the rear)

If I could post pics direct, it would be easier. yeah, me puta numpty.


Al

I'm not going to use the D pillars but thats good to know. Not sure how I'm going to go about it, might fab up some square tube frame work or something to take the rear sheet i'll get made up + make it a bit stronger. Something to work on over the break when my mind is thinking clearly.

[bru21]

i used a 9" and a hacksaw through the sills for accuracy. i got the sills perfect and overlappd the joins a little to make welding easier.

cheers bru