Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi All,

Can anyone recommend what sort of mods I could do to my Feroza SPV 92 model to give me a bit more power for towing, I'm willing to spend around $1500.

Thanks for any advice
Cheers

4-2-1 extractors, 2" exhaust system; electric thermo fan; pod filter; run it on 98 octane fuel and advance the ignition timing to suit.

Check your oxy sensor is still working OK (or just spend the $60 odd dollars and buy a new one if fitting extractors.)

i'll be doing a turbo conversion on mine next year once i acumalate the bits i want.
ultimately i want to do a 4agze supercharge engine conversion, that'll keep me happy..

Mmm yes please... Had a 4age seca.. nice lil engine.

yeah, i put a 4agze in my Mr2 (took the old 4age out), i have since done my own turbo conversion on it and it flogs..

the 4age/ze engines are damn tough, i am just not sure yet how much modification i need to bolt to the feroza's gearbox. one day i'll drop the box and put my spare 4age block up to it. might have to make an adaptor plate.

If you do.. I suggest you make say 6 adaptor plates and sell them on here :-)

I'd be replacing the gearbox with something stronger- every turbo Feroza conversion I've heard of has resulted in a blown gearbox very quickly!

murcod, do you know where any info on these other turbo feroza's might be? i would like to see what they tried.
would the turbo diesel rocky gearbox be a feasable swap?

after turboing the Mr2 and knowing how easy it is, i'll whack a hair dryer on anything...

One's been featured in Hot4's a while back- it was using a turbo off a WRX. Another is owner by a guy off the Daihard forums and he's had custom internals made for his standard box!! And a former NZ member on here put a turbo on his Feroza and blew his gearbox in about a week from memory- he took the turbo off and sold it to someone else!

Do a search and you should find more info, most of it's been discussed before.

are 4-1 extractors for top end power? or all round

how much for extractors these days?

4-1 are supposed to be better for top end; 4-2-1 are supposed to give better mid range and torque at low revs.

Thought it was the other way around dave
I've got 4-1 lukey headers and the 2 1/2 and it pulls realy well down low especialy up hills in second low

Wouldn't 4-1 actualy create more backpresure

rocknferoza wrote:Thought it was the other way around dave
I've got 4-1 lukey headers and the 2 1/2 and it pulls realy well down low especialy up hills in second low

No, that's the way it supposedly works. I was involved with club car racing a few years back and we had some custom 4-1 extractors made because being a race car you want it all top end.

Realistically I don't know how much difference there is between the two designs, it would be interesting to do a dyno with a couple of different sets of each type. I know mine revs out a lot better and yet I've got the 4-2-1!? Either type will probably give an improvement over the whole rev range - if you look at the standard manifold you'll understand what I'm saying!

Here's a bit of info:

http://www.thorleyheaders.com/tech_basics_triy.html

http://www.racingbeat.com/2001header/headertest.htm

SR20DET or how about a 3SGTE......
Or if thats way too much poke how about a CA18DET?
That should make it a lively experience.

I've seen a few Daihatsu Rockys over here running 1JZ, 2JZ, 7MGTE and soon to be an RB25DET.
Currently i'm working on a 3.5 Rover V8 from my old Range Rover Classic.

the only problem with doing a turbo conversion is that a turbo set up for a petrol motor is designed to give maximum power and torque at high rpm.
and when 4wdriving you need the power low down, this is where a supercharger would be better, changing the pulley diameter on the supercharger give it better boost and lower rpm,

A smaller turbo will give power at lower revs (at the sacrifice of top end power.)

indeed 4x4roza, thats why i would love to do a 4agze conversion in the long run. supercharge power!!

but for the turbo conversion on the factory engine i will be useing a little T2 turbo off a nissan exa. should spool nice and low in the rev range, will be only looking at 4-5 psi for just that little extra go with-out worrying too much about blowing the thing up too early (it already burns a small amount of oil from previous and currents thrashings).
a Megasquirt DIY fuel ecu will help me with tuning the fuel side of it and i'll keep the factory ignition set-up.


the gearbox i'll deffinatly have to look into though.

how would a turbo of a 2l hilux go on the 2.8? thought of this option

Should be quite a straight forward conversion if u know what u're doing.
Btw dont u think doing a 2.8 into a 2L downgrading as it's a 2.4litre.
How about dropping in a 2LT or better still a 1KZ. Hehe

Yeah i know those turbo engine i mentioned are all highend hp.
Hence i'm considering rebuilding my rangie engine and droping it into the Rocky.

The turbo manifold design also plays a big part in how the turbo spools up.
From what I have read from a few mags is the shorter each pipe is and smaller in diamater the faster the turbocharger will spool up But you will loose on topend power.
The longer and bigger in diamater it is there will be lag and will take longer 2 boost up but you will get more topend power.

Hope that has helped a bit.

I found an article in Hot4s about a turbo on a 94 Feroza.
It's been on my website and I forgot about it until now.

http://dougfreeze.com/daihatsu/turbo/index.htm

Looks nice.

thanks for the link.

the feroza will be easier to turbo after already doing a complete turbo conversion on the Mr2.

Have you thought about what you're going to do about the ignition timing? It's not controlled by the EFI computer, so a piggy back computer as used by the one in that story is next to useless IMHO. An aftermarket injection set up with ignition mapping would be the best option.

i have not studied the feroza's ignition set-up yet. i plan to not even have to touch it.
i cannot see why i cant use the megasquirt to have total 'seperate' contol of the fuel mapping. which when i tune it with a laptop no ignition retard etc would be needed, it just has to spark.

You need to retard the timing when on boost and advance it when off. The standard timing will cause detonation problems as it keeps advancing more the revs rise.

There's absolutely nothing mentioned about how they controlled the timing in that Hot 4's article. Getting the timing right is crucial to maximise the power output across the rev range. Get it wrong (with detonation) and you'll quickly destroy the engine.

Any idea when the Ultra Megasquirt is going to be released?