Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I bought a rear diff for my 80 series with a Brand spanking new ARB Locker in it, but no compressor etc etc. So before I race out and pay arb the $$$ I was wondering what other people have done for locker activation. Reliability is the key though.

Just trot out to smc or the like pick up some pneaumatic solinoids.

and a couple of switches all is well.
Michael.

i know a festo mfh 5-1/8 will do the job and it is about $140
it is a 5 port solenoid which will do the job for you but is overkill. you should be able to use a more simple solenoid. maybe getaway with it for around $100. arb is probably cheaper.

the arb solinoids ar actually quite cheap i bout a wiring harness switch and solenoid for around $75 i think that aslo had some seals and what not included 2, just go in and ask for prices you will be supprised

Why is that everone goes the electric solenoid route. All the pneumatic manufacturers sell 1/8 ported manual valves that flow more air than a difflock will ever need.
Yes you have to run air lines into the cab (not much harder than wires) 1 supply and 1 exhaust for 1 or 2 lockers and 1 line to each locker as required max 4 lines.
Iv'e run 6mm supply and exhaust and 4mm to the lockers with small 3 port toggle valves neatly mounted in the dash.
Price would depend on where you buy your bits from but $80-$90 per valve with fittings and line would cover costs.
Why add electrics to a pneumatic operation if you dont need too.
Dave

Im with davejb on this one

But i was planning on using a gear nob from a 15 speed truck gearbox to activate the lockers

Maxi-Drive (Land-Rover lockers) use a completely vacuum/pneumatic switch for actuation that is very simple, cheap and has no electrics.

The switches they use are from here:
http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_contr ... valves.asp

Select:
"3-way valve"
"Selector" and
"1/8 NPT" for the one MD uses. This type should be correct for an ARB as well.

They are about $36 and you also need a button for about $2 (see below).

http://www.clippard.com/store/display_d ... ku=11916-1

The only problem with these switches is the button will periodically come a bit loose, but I just keep the allen key in the cab and tighten it every few trips.

Why is that everone goes the electric solenoid route.....

Agree. Pneumatics are much easier to trouble shoot. There is generally a sound coming from where the problem is - unlike with electrics.

The only problem with these switches is the button will periodically come a bit loose, but I just keep the allen key in the cab and tighten it every few trips.

Good to hear MD built at least one landrover quirk into the system.

i was thinking about that today. much less trouble and probably much cheaper if all pneumatic. good work

Can't argue with any of the above, but the ARB standard harness adds a little extra security:

The diff locks can't engage if the switch for the compressor is on (doesn't matter if there is air in the tank - if the compressor is not turned on, the diff locks won't activate.)
They are wired as primary-secondary (typically rear-front) so the front locker can't be turned on if the rear locker isn't on.
Having the electrical bits allowed me to use the 4wd activation switch in the Paj - if the front axle isn't connected the diff lock can't turn on i.e. can't lock the front axle in 2wd.

In a competition vehicle all this is probably unnecessary complication. For a road car being driven by non-4wders (the missus?) the extra complexity reduces the possibility of one or both lockers being switched on accidentally.

Whatever floats your boat!

Scott

BENDIX truck in-cab parkbrake actuators can be used as well if you want to go to an all air set-up. Buy them from either a truck wrecker or Whitehorse truck parts.

Nick

the_grubb wrote:Agree. Pneumatics are much easier to trouble shoot. There is generally a sound coming from where the problem is - unlike with electrics.

Electrics are much easier.... Follow your eyes or nose to where the smoke comes out. Bingo, there's your problem!

V8 Middy wrote:

the_grubb wrote:Agree. Pneumatics are much easier to trouble shoot. There is generally a sound coming from where the problem is - unlike with electrics.

Electrics are much easier.... Follow your eyes or nose to where the smoke comes out. Bingo, there's your problem!

Ahhhhh yes, but try and put the smoke back in

Pesky Pete wrote:I bought a rear diff for my 80 series with a Brand spanking new ARB Locker in it, but no compressor etc etc. So before I race out and pay arb the $$$ I was wondering what other people have done for locker activation. Reliability is the key though.

I used a MasterMac 3 port solenoid. you can also run for ages just on a 2 litre air tank, I used a $20 K-Mart compressor to fill it.

The diff locks can't engage if the switch for the compressor is on (doesn't matter if there is air in the tank - if the compressor is not turned on, the diff locks won't activate.)
They are wired as primary-secondary (typically rear-front) so the front locker can't be turned on if the rear locker isn't on.
Having the electrical bits allowed me to use the 4wd activation switch in the Paj - if the front axle isn't connected the diff lock can't turn on i.e. can't lock the front axle in 2wd.

You can arrange the same logic with pneumatics - if that floats your boat

i bought a valve for work with two positions. (5 fittings) it looks just like a normal electrical switch. this would allow both on or rear only then use a on off valve for the air feed. should cost under $150 which is dear i guess but more reliable.

bru21 wrote:i bought a valve for work with two positions. (5 fittings) it looks just like a normal electrical switch. this would allow both on or rear only then use a on off valve for the air feed. should cost under $150 which is dear i guess but more reliable.

You mean one like this?

http://www.clippard.com/store/display_d ... sku=MTV-5F

similar. that looks like a 3 port in, activate, exhaust. suitable as the switch

Which ever way you go, it will cost lots.
I have some ARB switches left over from my twins if you want and you can use any kmart compresser to pump up a reservoir (like an old $20 fire extinguisher you can pick up at the markets) to 85 psi, using the $20 ARB pressure switch, and a relay, it will be automatic.
Then you need an air solenoid...probably cheaper than a manual DCV.
Andrew

bru21 wrote:similar. that looks like a 3 port in, activate, exhaust. suitable as the switch

No, it is a 4-way 5-port - there must be 2 ports underneath

send me a pm and i'll nab a festo 3 port valve from work, you pay the freight, you will however have to get a 12v solenoid coil cos everything at work is 24v
hope this helps...

Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2004 4:38 pm

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the arb solinoids ar actually quite cheap i bout a wiring harness switch and solenoid for around $75 i think that aslo had some seals and what not included 2, just go in and ask for prices you will be supprised

you got all that for $75 ?

where ???

Ive been using my ARB lockers and associated solenoids, compressor etc in 2 Mavs. Not one prob in 8 years..

A hilux for 4 before that and an MK for 4 before that all with same setups (MK only rear)

Bazzle

Ice wrote:

Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2004 4:38 pm

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the arb solinoids ar actually quite cheap i bout a wiring harness switch and solenoid for around $75 i think that aslo had some seals and what not included 2, just go in and ask for prices you will be supprised

you got all that for $75 ?

where ???

....have a wild guess!

obviously im asking which particular arb dealer

quoted

$173

for wiringing harness... both bits ( short section that plugs into switches and the main harness itself)

3 x switches 3 x switch covers 1 x presure switch 1x air solenoid 1 x 40amp relay