Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have just bought a zook sierra and I probably dont want to go bigger than 30-31 inch tyres. Looking at some 30" muds for now.

Im thinking of doing a small body lift but dont really know what Im doing when it comes to zooks (I did a body lift on my lux no worries).
The zooks have the studs coming out of the body right? so I need threaded blocks? And NO im deffinatly not using box iron and double bolting it!

What if I wanted to just go say 1" lift? could I just use the original studs with normal non threaded blocks?

How much lift would I need to clear 30-31s? would an inch body and some inch or so longer shackles be enough?

Should I just be like everyone else and just go a 2 inch BL? I would prefer to keep it as low as I pos can while clearing the tyres.
Paul.

On my vitara (similar mounting process) the max on standard studs without threaded blocks (can be done if you can tap solid metal - wouldnt do it on alloy) was about 32mm...

25mm needed few mods - and 30 odd you needed to start modifying bits.

1" body lift, some suspension lift and "firewall encouragement" and you should be ok with 31"S.

I wanted to keep mine as low as possible for stability - this is always a good thing.

ausyota wrote:I have just bought a zook sierra and I probably dont want to go bigger than 30-31 inch tyres. Looking at some 30" muds for now.

Im thinking of doing a small body lift but dont really know what Im doing when it comes to zooks (I did a body lift on my lux no worries).
The zooks have the studs coming out of the body right? so I need threaded blocks? And NO im deffinatly not using box iron and double bolting it!

What if I wanted to just go say 1" lift? could I just use the original studs with normal non threaded blocks?

How much lift would I need to clear 30-31s? would an inch body and some inch or so longer shackles be enough?

Should I just be like everyone else and just go a 2 inch BL? I would prefer to keep it as low as I pos can while clearing the tyres.
Paul.

The most common lift for a sierra is 2". Some guys use RHS ( box steel- not recomended), but most will use billit alloy or steel. You can also use HDPE, plastic in short, but you have to use a crushtube insert, and will most likely have to drill the original studs out of the floor, and weld new ones in ( pain in the ass!)

Best and easiest way to go IMO, is with the solid steel, or alloy blocks.

Just tap a thread and wind 'em on.

I have sold and installed over a dozen alloy kits to people, and all are loving it. No worries at all.

The alloy is a little easier to tap aswell.

so how much for an alloy kit, gutless?

i did my own body lift got 50 mm solid m\s bar you will need ten pieces cut to length drill each one 14 or 16 mm except for 4 these will need to be drilled to suit M10 tap you will also need 6 longer bolts to suit and 4 short bolts to suit all bolts are M10 fine thread with 31s i found this to be pretty good and it only scrubs out sometimes

bennybigballs wrote:i did my own body lift got 50 mm solid m\s bar you will need ten pieces cut to length drill each one 14 or 16 mm except for 4 these will need to be drilled to suit M10 tap you will also need 6 longer bolts to suit and 4 short bolts to suit all bolts are M10 fine thread with 31s i found this to be pretty good and it only scrubs out sometimes

What vehicle is this for? The sierra has 6 captive studs, and 4 non- captive. That means that you need 6 threaded blocks ( 8.8mm drill, and M10x 1.25 pitch tap) and 4 with clearance holes ( 11mm will do)

Front and rear mounts then require 90mm long bolts with same thread, and after cutting thread all the way to the top of the captive studs, wind the threaded blocks on, the screw a 40mm long bolt ( same thread as before) up from the bottom.

Use lock tight on all threads, and use a spring washer also.


Pete

30's just use a hammer and grinder. Finish with paint. Then I will sell you a 1lt Tcase and you can make a rock lobster (lower gearing)

Body lifts are over rated.

Either that or a BL and no lift in springs. will fit easier.

I need a bl in mine as the springs sag the tyres are rubbing more. doh

at least a BL does not sag

cheers

nicbeer wrote:Either that or a BL and no lift in springs. will fit easier.

I need a bl in mine as the springs sag the tyres are rubbing more. doh

at least a BL does not sag

cheers

That's what bump stops are for

So if I do put in a bodylift it will be not be able to be taken out again without major dramas because of cut body mount studs?

True

so where are the extra two studs gutless

ya dont have to cut them, did mine by using a female bolt to connect some threaded bar to the captive bolts.... seems to work fine, haven't had any drama's with it. chech the sticky's at the top of the forum, i think there's come BL tech in there

if you're gonna go to the hassle of BL, i reckon ya may as well go the 2" and run 31s... not worth it otherwise IMHO

bennybigballs wrote:so where are the extra two studs gutless

2 at the very front below the grill, 2 near the footwell at the back of the front springs, 4 on the crossmember near your butt, and 2 at the very back accessed by opening the rear door

Can someone confirm if i do a BL by cutting more thread as per gutless comment.

1) I have not looked at the bolts under the zook. Do they have eg: 30mm thread and i need 60mm thread? just run a die on the orig thread and cut more on?

2) Can i drop the body back to normal without the BL if i want to still?
3) What spacers do i use under or above the blocks. I have read that to use the orig rubber washers on top of the blocks?


thanks

Nic

nicbeer wrote:Can someone confirm if i do a BL by cutting more thread as per gutless comment.

1) I have not looked at the bolts under the zook. Do they have eg: 30mm thread and i need 60mm thread? just run a die on the orig thread and cut more on?

2) Can i drop the body back to normal without the BL if i want to still?
3) What spacers do i use under or above the blocks. I have read that to use the orig rubber washers on top of the blocks?


thanks

Nic

I recommend saving the coin and getting a bolt in kit. Trust me it will save you a heap of headaches.

Or get under it and undo some bolts so you know whats going on.

This will be a bolt in kit. I am getting the blocks threaded for the studs.

The info is for a mate as well as for myself.

cheers

I put the 6 easy ones in with the round plastic stuff with hole through it ($30 for 1M we used about 1/2 a M) and for the middle ones i drilled them out completley and then put more plastic stuff in and put new bolts the whole way through.

None of this dual bolt cube steel stuff for me Was the easiest way for us but u may want to do it another way...

i would go for the proper bolt in kit (yes i do sell em- no they are not cheep)

the reason for this is many... you do not need to cut your bolts off, you do not need to cut your threads up... if you get one block just out of alignment it is a mongrel to fit... and most of all....

you can change it back...


yes i do have the homemade bl using this style in mud4b...

i went to drop it out (so i could gain extra lift in the suspension without going higher) but found i could not do it without heaps of stuffing around..