Outer Limits 4x4 Board

After lots of coaxing from guys on and off the board, I have decided to install the 4" lift myself, taking it nice and easy and also taking lots of photos during the install for a later writeup...

Now, the only thing that I am a little unsure about is how do I know what sort of castor correction I need. I know if the steering is vauge after the install it needs correction, but how do I know how much is needed... is the old 1 degree for every inch over stock a good rule of thumb?

If that is the case, I probably need 3 degrees... but I don't really want to go eccentric bushes becasue they will bind more than the stock concentric bushes. That leaves plates.

Do they come in 3 deg?

Does it matter if I go 5deg if I only need 3 deg?

What are the side-effects of a few degrees too much castor?

DirtPigs wrote:What are the side-effects of a few degrees too much castor?

more angle on the front pinion uni, which isn't really a problem. The big thing is that the more castor you give it, the lower your tie rod moves below the housing..

It might be allright with nothing, the shorties get affected worse because the kits are made to lift the rear a touch higher than the front (for load carrying). Obviously the longer the wheelbase, the less this rake affects the castor inclination... Drive it and see, I guess. You could always have the radius arms bent a couple degrees like the rangie guys do??

caster correction bushes make baby jesus cry!!

they also help him hold his beer level.

So... the recommendation is?

Plates

5 link, or the budget option SOA with leaf springs, cut and turn for pinion angle.

In one hungover hour on sunday i lifted my housemates 80 series 5 inches from where it was (mainly cause he got out) truly though i then took it for a spin. Works fine. 8) Weird body roll and brake steer, but who cares!

bj on roids wrote:5 link, or the budget option SOA with leaf springs, cut and turn for pinion angle.

Nope... keeping this simple, all I want is the best castor correction solution for a 4" lift keeping the radius arms. I will be installing the lift over the next week and I would like to fit the castor correction in that time.

5 link isn't an option... and as for SOA... it is a GQ... i.e. coil sprung.

And cutting and welding the axle tubes isn't an easy solution for me.

3" body lift when i get off my arse. He is really scared about everything, and is always asking my opinion, and its FINE!!! Wait till i body lift it and add some 1" spacers, and shim up the pump, and stuff

DirtPigs wrote:

bj on roids wrote:5 link, or the budget option SOA with leaf springs, cut and turn for pinion angle.

Nope... keeping this simple, all I want is the best castor correction solution for a 4" lift keeping the radius arms. I will be installing the lift over the next week and I would like to fit the castor correction in that time.

5 link isn't an option... and as for SOA... it is a GQ... i.e. coil sprung.

Ive seen coiled vehicles converted to leaf springs!!! Its not as difficult as you are making out. Weld some perches to the nissan diff. Sweet as!

You can cut the plates out yourself, for your caster correction. Just measure it a bit and nut it out. She'll be sweet.

Do the trig and see if there is enough room on the mounts to weld up one of the original holes and drill another one next to it. It works with 80 series, but I don't think there is as much leftover space within the nissan mount.

Leaf springs could be done, but they would be way inboard because of the taper in the chassis, mounted about 150mm above the axle centreline to clear the pumpkin, and you would need to drastically change the steering and extend the front of the chassis to accomadate the springs. Fuk that.

Edward Radiusarms needed castor bushes to prevent beer spillage, but it is not for everyone!

Thanks... all good ideas.

Imagine a leaf sprung GQ... now that would be a first!!!

Steal the front end from a leaf sprung GQ Ute .. its all there waitin for ya ... :wink:

SOA a GQ ... bwahahahahaha ... BJ is full of good ideas!

Use correction plates. Later on maybe get a Mannell motors bolt-on 5-link and jobs done.

If you decide to sell your rig down the track, bolt all the original shiat back in and and sell the mods ...

If you have a look at the pic getting around of the bolt on 5-link, you'll notice that the upper arm mounts to a bracket, that replaces the swaybar chassis mount, by my eyeball that would make it lucky to be about 300-350mm long? Better off staying with Edward Radiusarms...

Done a triangulated 4 link and an (A) frame front on GQ, travel is cool, will be testing next week.

i think roughly you would need 1 degree for each 1" above a 2" lift which makes yours needing 2 degrees.
caster plates probably start at 5 degrees.
as a lot of lifts are not exactly what they say i would wait and see.
It may be ok with nothing !! i drove mine for a while with a seven inch lift and no caster correction while i saved up and found it darted around a bit and i had to keep the concentration up to hold it on line.
front tailshaft vibrated badly though.
shane

big red wrote:i think roughly you would need 1 degree for each 1" above a 2" lift which makes yours needing 2 degrees.
caster plates probably start at 5 degrees.
as a lot of lifts are not exactly what they say i would wait and see.
It may be ok with nothing !! i drove mine for a while with a seven inch lift and no caster correction while i saved up and found it darted around a bit and i had to keep the concentration up to hold it on line.
front tailshaft vibrated badly though.
shane

Thanks Shane, That's the sort of info I am after.

Cheers,

Cheezy4x4 wrote:Done a triangulated 4 link and an (A) frame front on GQ, travel is cool, will be testing next week.

Don't Tempt me!!!

Binskins are up near you !!!!!
give glenn a bell !!!!!
they could advise you on wat is available , or even if its required !!!!!

carlton , we did a couple the way you said !!
leave the back bolt in the orig. mount , then plate , drill & brace !!!!
works sweet !!!!

moose wrote:Binskins are up near you !!!!!
give glenn a bell !!!!!
they could advise you on wat is available , or even if its required !!!!!

carlton , we did a couple the way you said !!
leave the back bolt in the orig. mount , then plate , drill & brace !!!!
works sweet !!!!

so by "plate drill & brace" you mean that you had to add some more steel to the mount to make room for the new hole first??

Cheezy4x4 wrote:Done a triangulated 4 link and an (A) frame front on GQ, travel is cool, will be testing next week.

will be "interesting" at road speed with mechanical steering to say the least!

yep !!! :wink:

DirtPigs wrote:Thanks... all good ideas.

Imagine a leaf sprung GQ... now that would be a first!!!

yeah its not like it wasnt a factory option or anything!!

Also an article on converting coils to leafs:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=130631

so is it full hydro?

didnt the ram assist work properly? have some issues with it?

bj on roids wrote:yeah its not like it wasnt a factory option or anything!!

Leaf sprung GQ utes are Completely different chassis, early ones had the c200 front axle as well- they were just an updated MK for a few years

Wendle wrote:

bj on roids wrote:yeah its not like it wasnt a factory option or anything!!

Leaf sprung GQ utes are Completely different chassis, early ones had the c200 front axle as well- they were just an updated MK for a few years

I am aware of this, but look at what i quoted him as saying:

a leaf sprung GQ that would be a first

aaaah, OK. More of a litterary error then.

Wendle wrote:aaaah, OK. More of a litterary error then.

as opposed to a spelling error, YES

hahahah...
Literary?

been a long time since I was at school :(