Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone know who deals with the weld-on recovery lugs that accept bow shackles.

Looking at putting them down the side of my chassis rails to aid in sideways recovery if required

bakers/blackwoods

i thought weld on recovery points were bad (i.e. weakens the metal at the spot of the weld, recovery points under huge load etc)

id say weld and bolt it on that way it still has strength

bad_religion_au wrote:i thought weld on recovery points were bad (i.e. weakens the metal at the spot of the weld, recovery points under huge load etc)

If you are welding it to a decent thickness steel with a decent weld, not a problem, I've seen welds in big steel holding 5 tonne vertically.

Also seen a few welds pull away. BOLT on only unless you can certify your welds.
Personal opinion but I dont like the risk of flying missiles.

Bazzle

matthewK wrote:id say weld and bolt it on that way it still has strength

no offence but thats the worst of both worlds - heat stress form the welding and holes on the chassis from the bolting. one or the other is mor than adequate

If you are bolting the Lug {which I personally recommend},bolt through a piece of pipe in the chassis to prevent crushing and retain bolt torque.
Use a minimum of 2 ,12mm 8.8 grade bolts and plate the other side of the chassis under the nuts to spread the load.
There is quite a bit on the net about recovery including recovery hooks traveling at arround 500kph when leaving the chassis on the end of a
Bungy strap
There was a 70's patrol with a hook inbedded in the back door arround for a while.
J Top

Thanks for the input everyone.

I'm of an opinion now that weld on is not the way to go. Noticed that most people use the eye bolt type and the hook type recovery points, so I'll stick to that.

Just a query though. With the hooks that are secured by two bolts, is there a tendency to bend the setup if you don't pull from straight ahead?

i dont know how good or practical this may be, but what about using the method in which rock sliders adopt? some/most sliders are there to stop rocks smashing sills, and therefore able to take most, if not all the weight of the rig.

i think ANTT used this method to fix his EXO to the chassis. its like a fabbed C channel that holds the chassis rail, and is then secured with 2 or 4 bolts, also like a U bolt on leaf to diff suspension.

i hope this makes sense, and the only down side, is that maybe it wont look as good as a welded and/or bolted on recovery point. and with the above method, you can move or remove it when you want.

Steve,

I think you still end up with the same issue.

If you box your chassis then you either weld a lug to the boxed part or bolt it through.

If you weld it, possible poor welds will break

If you bolt it, you may as well just plate both sides and / or use a crush tube, as you'll have to bolt throught the chassis.

I think I'm going to weld 10mm plate to inside and outside of chassis rail ( at CoG ) and two at rear X-member and put eye bolts through the lot.

BTW I just took off two lower control arms from my spare rear diff if you need any spares. Got some plans, so I won't be needing them

The Rated Recovery Hooks will bend or open sometimes if not pulled in a straight line,but they are rated to 10,000 lbs
I have tested these on a pull rig and the Bushranger ones opened at 4,8 tonnes,When a hook opens the rope fly's off and could posibly hurt someone but when a shackle is used and break's you have metal missiles flying arround at great speed.
A hook on each corner well mounted gives you your best recovery options.
J Top