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doing up an old patrol ute for "hardcore" bush bas
Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2004 12:02 pm
by TYLER
wat are the best extrem lift kits for the ol girl????
And wats the best gear box for the carby petrol motors?
Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2004 12:19 pm
by spazbot
what model dude we aint mind readers
Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2004 1:25 pm
by RV80
Leafs or Coils?
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 9:15 am
by V8Patrol
Head to the Nissan section & have a gander in one of the "bibles"
wealth of info at ya fingertips !
Kingy
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 3:40 pm
by TYLER
shes an MQ shorty, leafs all round, how much for a good sized lift kit?
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 4:13 pm
by redzook
TYLER wrote:shes an MQ shorty, leafs all round, how much for a good sized lift kit?
higher isnt better
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 4:28 pm
by Beastmavster
2" raised shackles all round.... about $30 in bolts and $30 in steel.
Body lift.... maybe $100 bolts and steel.
Difflocks.... Set of rods $2.50 + $25 for 4 litres diff oil.
For a bush only beast so long as you have a welder and a drill you can have a twin locked lifted beast for $500 more no problem.
Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2005 2:53 pm
by hottiemonster
Beastmavster wrote:2" raised shackles all round.... about $30 in bolts and $30 in steel.
Body lift.... maybe $100 bolts and steel.
Difflocks.... Set of rods $2.50 + $25 for 4 litres diff oil.
For a bush only beast so long as you have a welder and a drill you can have a twin locked lifted beast for $500 more no problem.
i like your style
Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2005 6:15 pm
by Big Red Toy
welded diffs just won't work on a heavyish car, ok on zook's but thats it really.
Lift wise, don't go extended shackles, just get some 5 or 6 pack leafs from a wreckers or newy's depending on budget, chucking in a 3" bodylift & clear 36's like myself.
If you are going to chop the back of it
then i'd consider welding the diff as i'm actually going to give it a shot soon myself.
Chop your 1/4 panels, off remove any towbar / bumpers & fit a tube bar
fit a shit load of big ass lights & go wheeling
Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2005 6:27 pm
by Big Red Toy
well if its a ute to start with, you could weld it straight off. My lsd works pretty good thou
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 1:45 pm
by hottiemonster
beebee has front and rear welded diffs and he drove excellent at PUOSU, only problem with the front in the turning circle.
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 5:45 pm
by MQ080
hottiemonster wrote:beebee has front and rear welded diffs and he drove excellent at PUOSU, only problem with the front in the turning circle.
Unlock a hub when turning tight
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 7:49 pm
by Reddo
MQ080 wrote:hottiemonster wrote:beebee has front and rear welded diffs and he drove excellent at PUOSU, only problem with the front in the turning circle.
Unlock a hub when turning tight
easy to say now
But i know I CBF doing that in the bush, or mud.
SOA the 4wd now, and save your self some time. I did my 40 and can get 36" ET2's under it no worries, sept for the rear, which rubs out a little..... then think about 3/4 in the rear.
What type of wheeling do u do the most of?
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 9:50 pm
by TYLER
who me??? i mostly do scrub bashin, rocky hill climbs and mud runnin... fun fun :twiste
only the mountins get scary at times, wat bout u?
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 11:50 pm
by MY45
If you are handy enough to do the soa (search for spring over or soa) conversion yourself go for it.... pull a few leaves out of your spring pack, track bar and weled diff in the rear then get wheeling.
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 11:16 am
by TYLER
or do ya recon it would be worth gettin a lsd insted of weldin it???
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 11:55 am
by MY45
TYLER wrote:or do ya recon it would be worth gettin a lsd insted of weldin it???
Nope, toyo lsd's dont work and if its not going to see the tar all that often weld the rear
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 12:22 pm
by TYLER
sik sik, ill let me mate know bout that one ay, he has an old cruser ute