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ARE LONGFIELDS ANY GOOD OR IS IT JUST MARKETING
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 2:01 pm
by jim stin
Are longfeild cv worth the spend . would like to hear from people who have them or used them . i have just got a yn67 hilux 85 model and whant to put lock rights front aand rear . it was suggested that i use longfield supaxles with the front . please tell me cause u will save me 1200 for the cvs.
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 2:22 pm
by spazbot
yes they are worth the $$ but dont buy them in au for $1200 as you can get em for half that by buying em straight from the states
have you been breaking lots of cvs ??
what size rubber are you running?
you dont really need to upgrades the cvs if your just running 32s and havnt broken any yet
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 2:30 pm
by Leithfield
Worth every cent.
Have recently returned from a truck busting, rock crawling, overnighter up a high country (South Island, New Zealand) river ... to say the terrain was extreme would be an understatement!
In a group of four Surfs (35 - 37" tyres), three toyota CV's absolutely shat themselves; a mate (Suprasurf) on 37's was equipped with the new 30 spline Longs, and they took one hell of a licking and never started clicking. Gave him the confidence to tackle terrain and situations that a Chamois would baulk at! I was so impressed that I will definitley outfit, myself.
The new 30 spline Longs are the goods and then some.
Re: ARE LONGFIELDS ANY GOOD OR IS IT JUST MARKETING
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 3:56 pm
by RUFF
jim stin wrote:Are longfeild cv worth the spend . would like to hear from people who have them or used them . i have just got a yn67 hilux 85 model and whant to put lock rights front aand rear . it was suggested that i use longfield supaxles with the front . please tell me cause u will save me 1200 for the cvs.
Where did you get your $1200 price from? If thats from snake Racing then they will be the old style remanufactured(Second Hand cleaned treated and with a Ring Welded on) type not the new Chromo/300M ones. Unless he is selling the new ones at the same price which i highly doubt. Other than the Chromo ones Longfield is only making the remanufactured ones now. There are no other types unless a dealer has old stock.
Now some will say im biased and dont listen to me but im only going to give no BS info from my personal experiances.
I bought the first set of the Original(Second hand CVs cleaned and treated with a Ring welded on) style Longfields that Snake Racing Brought into the country. These were awsome in my Hilux (22RE dual transfers Arb Airlockers and from 33 up to 38.5 tyres) I never broke one but i also never snapped an inner axle with them so maybe they never got in the situation to break. I ended up lending one to BeeBee and he broke it in no time. These were in my hilux for around 2 years. They clicked from about the second time out with them.
Now i also fitted a set to a mates tube buggy right before a comp. The first one broke in about 15mtrs in very easy terrain that full bodied rigs were also driving. The second one broke after replacing the first one. It broke about 10mtrs into the next stage. Not Happy to say the least. This vehicle should have been able to win this comp and due to this we settled for 3RD place. Wether the quality went down hill in the 2 years since i bought the first set i dont know but i personaly wouldnt run another set of treated stock Longfields. The Chromos on the other hand i will be looking at buying shortly.
Now after we broke these ones we started experimenting with treating our own CVs and we are confident that the CVs we are treating are if not stronger than the Original longs they are at least as strong. Yes they do still get broken but they are still only Treated Standard CVs and most of the vehicles that are running these so far are not your run of the mill wheelers. We have them in everything from Tube Buggies to Winch challenge Vehicles to Weekend warriors and so far have had one CV broken from the sets we have sold and he was well looked after in his next purchase. We also have a few vehicles running these that we Sponsor.
Now if you are buying the new Chromo CVs at $1200 and you are happy to spend this much then by all means go for it. But if this is the original reman CVs then you may want to save some $$ and Buy some Haultech Engineering ones. We sell ours treated with a ring welded on them for $500 a pair. We can freight them anywhere. These have no warranty but neither do the Longfields, however if you do Break one defianatly let us know as we will be happy to look after you on replacements. Just remember nothing is unbreakable.
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 3:58 pm
by RUFF
Just noticed you have lockrights Keep in mind in the front a Lockright will be lucky if it Survives when a CV does break. Most times when a CV is broken while running a lockright the pins in the lockright will be damaged by the shock load of the CV breaking. This also comes from personal experiance.
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 4:34 pm
by 4sum4
With the lockright and stronger CV`s would the next week point be the lockright?
And what size wire do you use to weld the ring and what gas?
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 8:11 pm
by RUFF
4sum4 wrote:With the lockright and stronger CV`s would the next week point be the lockright?
And what size wire do you use to weld the ring and what gas?
.000000004 wire and Elephant fart gas
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 8:13 pm
by RUFF
Did you want to know how we heat them and for how long as well
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 9:18 pm
by RV80
What vehicles do you have cv's available for RUFF?
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 9:38 pm
by RUFF
RV wrote:What vehicles do you have cv's available for RUFF?
Currently we do Hilux/Early style Cruiser and all the Rover styles. We are testing ZJ75 series CV at the moment and we are currently working on a conversion to run Hilux CVs in GQs. The Hilux Stub shaft is larger than the GQ one. The stub shaft on the GQ is generaly the weak point once the CV is treated.
The Hilux/Early cruiser style retail at $500 a pair,
THe Rover ones vary depending on style and availability on suitable S/H CVs to treat from $500 up to $800 for a pair.
We havwent worked out pricing on the ZJ75 or GQ ones as yet.
Hilux/Early Cruiser ones are on the shelf at most times and ready for delivery.
The Rover ones we make to order so take a few days to be ready for shipment.
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 9:43 pm
by Leithfield
Interesting comment on the Lockrights Ruff, I am running the often maligned Lokka's (vintage 2002) front and rear, in a modded surf (2.8 Supra, Marlin Crawler, 35" ET's, etc, etc.) have busted more CV's then I care to remember, and they still function flawlessly.
With no disrespect to Haultech's product, when you want the VERY best, and your safety depends on the reliability of your CV's, I truly recommend paying the extra and opting for the 30 spline Longfields - as a former sceptic and devotee of "it's a shit load of cash", I am converted. I'm not personally enamoured by a product which is a step or three up from factory, or is perhaps cossetted by electronic traction control, I want a product that delivers without compromise.
Personally, I'm planning a set of 30 spline Longs/axle in combination with running Marlin 4.7 transfer gearing, per 44" Boggers ... now that should pose an interesting real world test.
Like most things in life, I suspect you pay for what you get.
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 9:53 pm
by RUFF
Leithfield wrote:Interesting comment on the Lockrights Ruff, I am running the often maligned Lokka's (vintage 2002) front and rear, in a modded surf (2.8 Supra, Marlin Crawler, 35" ET's, etc, etc.) have busted more CV's then I care to remember, and they still function flawlesly.
With no disrespect to Haultech's product, when you want the VERY best, and your safety depends on the reliability of your CV's, I truly recommend paying the extra and opting for the 30 spline Longfields - as a former sceptic and devotee of "it's a shit load of cash", I am converted.
And as i stated im also looking to go the 30 splines my self. I have just been waiting for a few more real world reports before i spend the $$.
Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2005 10:36 pm
by RV80
What about 80 series, when are they happening?
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 12:23 am
by beebee
Haultech Engineering CVs are GOOD!
I have not noticed a measureable difference between the corefield and the haultechs. Sure I do break them but I break lots! Today I broke 1 CV, 1 front pinion and 1 transfer case output shaft - all in a days work!
I'm thoroughly happy with the haultech cvs.
where are ewes
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 11:18 am
by jim stin
RUFF wrote:Just noticed you have lockrights Keep in mind in the front a Lockright will be lucky if it Survives when a CV does break. Most times when a CV is broken while running a lockright the pins in the lockright will be damaged by the shock load of the CV breaking. This also comes from personal experiance.
where r u guys and what would u suggest insted off lockrights i run 33 bfg muds and would like to put 4:11 in it will probly do the lokers at the same time . cant afford air lockers at the moment. so drop me a line at
donkablu@yahoo.com.au and any other info as im a first time hilux owner had only cruzas b4. a reply would be appricated
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 1:08 pm
by suprasurf
I'm running the 30 splines and love em
Nice to have confidence in a Lux front end for a change !!
I have given them some solid abuse and no probs so far
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 6:54 pm
by Mad Cruiser
RV wrote:What about 80 series, when are they happening?
Same here..... I've got a pair of CV's i took out recently they didn't break but the long one was stuffed.
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 9:57 pm
by RV80
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 10:18 pm
by RUFF
Sorry guys at the moment we have not looked at 80 series CVs. It appears that not many actually break them??
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 10:23 pm
by RV80
Give me time
Wrongs
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 5:12 pm
by Pesky Pete
I've busted heaps of 80 series CV's over the past few years, but yeah they are very tough CV's. Just last weekend, I busted the outer axle shaft. Twisted off on a 45 degree angle, then the busted pieces acted like a cam and punched the outer axle complete with half a hub through the free wheeling hub. Out the last ten or so 80 series CV's I have seen grenade, four (two just last weekend) have been the outer axle which sort of indicates that they are a very strong CV.
While I beleive that the 80 series CV is stronger than most out there, those of us that dod rive our 80's hard are busting heaps of CV's and I think there is a market for them. If you guys do start making them I'm keen to try some
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 5:21 pm
by RV80
Pesky Pete what brand of cv's have you been using?
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 5:48 pm
by RUFF
Our treatment wont stop them from breaking the outer stub axle off. But im guessing the ones that are doing this are not Genuine NTN CVs. They will be aftermarket.
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 7:42 pm
by Pesky Pete
RV wrote:Pesky Pete what brand of cv's have you been using?
Been using NTN and Repco's. I think 3 were repco and one NTN
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 8:06 pm
by RUFF
Pete if you and your mates are breaking them like you say then you either need to learn to drive
or look here-
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... ost3560692 I realy dont think i can help you with our CVs. I cant break an 80series front diff while driving forward. Seams you can also do this quite regularly
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 8:25 pm
by RV80
As i said i haven't broken any yet and im using the
Terrain Tamer brand from sunstate at archerfeild
about 90 bucks
each so i really can't complain
if i do break them.
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 8:27 pm
by POS
Maybe his Trunion bearings are not set properly!
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2005 8:35 pm
by RUFF
Posted: Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:26 am
by Pesky Pete
RUFF wrote:Pete if you and your mates are breaking them like you say then you either need to learn to drive
or look here-
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... ost3560692 I realy dont think i can help you with our CVs. I cant break an 80series front diff while driving forward. Seams you can also do this quite regularly
Tony
I have broken 1 80 series front diff and had a few mates break them too. My diff break was the result of going too hard in REVERSE trying to get out of a creek bed, with one hub out of action. The diff did break going forward, but I suspect the damage was done in the creek.
Anyway thanks for the answer on your CV's. Anyway, back on the track of the thread. Maybe the longfields are worth looking at. Will be keeping an eye out on pirate for actual experience with them then might buy some.