Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone know of a suitable replacemt for, or the cost of replacing the factory locker solenoids ?

One of mine is on the fritz (tested directly with 12v) and the locker wont come on :(

Daniel

From a previous Thread:

"The valve was bought from Pneutec 03 9879 6499 in Ringwood, Vic
Phone number is 03 9879 6499 ask for Damian
Part number is 45A-GCI-DDBA-13A
You have to plumb it up backwards, ie vacuum from engine to the exhaust port of the valve, A and B ports to the diff lock actuator and a silencer / filter on the pressure port to keep thr crap out. "

It did cost about 110 dollars delivered but is the best thing you can do for the factory locker...

I followed this guys advice and purchased one after I had fitted a factory locker rear end in place of my drum rear. The locker basically engages instantaneously and likewise when disengaging. Mainly due to the exhaust port ie when switching from on to off or vice versa vaccuum in the opposing line is vented. This stop's the effect of having two of the lines sucking for supremecy.... if ya get me...

You will understand when you get the thing. How it needs to be wired up.
I still haven't come up with a decent way of mounting this thing on the firewall. Soooo.....

The factory solenoids are shite. These are THE replacement....

Hey slug and jb I originally posted the info on the valve. Glad it was a help to you.
Sorry I dont have any pics of the bracket. But basically bent a u shaped bracket, which screwed to the firewall using the original solenoid mounting holes and screws. The new valve then mounts to the other side of the bracket.
I used a plug and lead from the wreckers (nissan skyline / pintara distrbutor) soldered this to the new solenoid wires and its a plug in fit up

Dave

Cheers guys
Some platinum info there !

From what I gather, the single solenoid replaces both factory solenoids ?
How do you power the thing ? As I recall from my trusty test light, in the off position one has power to open and same again in the on postion.
So I have two active and 2 ground wires.

Been googling for a pic of this thing without success so far. I will order one but a pic would be great

Thanks
Daniel

No digi but will try...

The thing has two positions.... ie one on and one off. It also has to active leads and two ground leads.

There are four ports on the thing they are named Input, A, B, Exhaust.
Theses solenoids are primarily used for pneumatics but vaccuum is just the opposite.

What dave was saying is the Input port has a filter over its opening so you use this as the exhaust port (ie; plumb it up backwards) -To keep dust and shite out. You only need one input line going into the Exhaust port.

When it is in on position Port A get vaccuum from the exhaust and B is vented. When in the off position Port B gets vaccuum and Port A is vented.

I just wanna give this thing a wrap again. I was playing round with my sisters Ti Ptrool's factory locker and it take upwards of 10 mins to come off and on. .

THis thing almost gives the rear locker the reaction time of an Air Locker --- But the design of these things prevents them from locking as quickly as an air locker. Bazzle will explain why or do a search...However it is fast enough...

Will get pics of the solenoid and my bashplate over the diaphragm on the housing which I recomend too.....

Jeremy..

Slug wrote:Cheers guys
Some platinum info there !

From what I gather, the single solenoid replaces both factory solenoids ?
How do you power the thing ? As I recall from my trusty test light, in the off position one has power to open and same again in the on postion.
So I have two active and 2 ground wires.

Been googling for a pic of this thing without success so far. I will order one but a pic would be great

Thanks
Daniel

The locker only has 2 states, locked & unlocked, the actuator only has 2 states pushed all the way in or pulled all the way out. Therefore you only need a solenoid that is electrically on or off. Withe the power on it will command the actuator to either push or pull, with the power off a spring return will command it to do the opposite function. It is preferable to have the most common position (locker disengaged) with power off and power on for the part time function (locker engaged)
If you have it tail about simply either swap the hoses to the actuator or swap the wires to the other factory solenoid feed.
If you were really keen it wouldn't be hard to swap the actuator to a SMC air cylinder with similar specs and hence turn it into an air locker with external actuation. The right air cylinder could also operate by vacumn instead.

JemmyBubbles wrote:I just wanna give this thing a wrap again. I was playing round with my sisters Ti Ptrool's factory locker and it take upwards of 10 mins to come off and on. .

10 mins????? i think there is something wrong with it, have you tried swerving side to side, full lock to lock? spinning the wheels slightly on a loose surface whilst trying to engage? Mine doesn't go straight in very often, but a bit of side to side will usually get it in, sometimes a little bit of reverse and side to side, and very rarely have to spin the wheels slightly.

Ben

Tested mine out again having a laugh at the petrol station. Came on in about 2 car lengths max, reversing with a little wheel lock.

Turning off takes much longer... too a u turn in the street and about 50 metres.

10 mintes on or off sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

Solenoid arrived today from Pneutec. Apparently the correect part number is 45A-GCI-DDBA-13A `Tis easy to see how its connected now ! In the process of making a bracket for it and will post a pic when done.

Thanks again
Daniel

Jobs done
After a small technical error with the supplied solenoid...One half was 24Vdc and the other 12vdc Even Pneutec doesnt know how that happened but they were apologetic and swapped it via express mail.
Bracket was made by a mate out of mild steel, folded and welded for 0 flex and designed to fit in the original mounting holes.

I have to say that this is the best thing than sliced bread! Locker is on or off in less than 5 seconds flat Thanks to all for the info

Have you got the name of the company that manufacture that solenoid ?
It would make it a little easier for me to find it in Europe

Hobbz wrote:Have you got the name of the company that manufacture that solenoid ?
It would make it a little easier for me to find it in Europe

By all means
http://www.macvalves.com/home.html

Hope it helps !

Thanks. that was just what i needed

Does this replace the round thing on the top of the diff?

GAZ76 wrote:Does this replace the round thing on the top of the diff?

No ... only the 2 factory solenoids located on the firewall.

Will this set up work on a old 308 blue motor and just runn it off the a vacuum port somewhere please let me know. CHEERS

Webbie wrote:Will this set up work on a old 308 blue motor and just runn it off the a vacuum port somewhere please let me know. CHEERS

one would presume so, just depends how much vacuum is produced, but presumably no more or less tan a TB42 so should.

has anyone actually ever done the air ram thing and posted a picture?

or posted a picture of the new mac valves fitted?

Heres a shot of the one in my old GQ.... Worked an absolute pisser.
Lock was on or off in less than a full rotation of the wheels. Silicon over the crews is there to stop them falling out

just dont damage the actuator on the diff.looked under the rear of mine and it copped a blow before i got it and is knacked.nissan said $800 for a replacement so ive torn the whole system out.now ill decide how to get it to work.being an off road truck only and being the rear im tempted just to make a plate and screw a bolt in and out.in bush .....on.......leave bush...off.

after looking at the damaged spare i picked up yesterday pootrol. i recon it would take bugger all effort to conver to air, cable or anything else you liked.
they are by far the most simple arrangement i have ever seen for a locking diff, just a shame nissan wants 800 for an actuator and 600 for a new locking sleve

u should be able to get any 2 way diaphram and adapt it, as long as its about the same size, ive had mine apart and it as said very simple, just an idea. or even go a small 2 way air ram, they are cheap compared to 800 bucks

http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u111/spadger83/
here is a heap of pics of the inside of a factory locker and the actuator
when i get some time ill make a thread with detailed info about the pics and lockers

Great post. i am fitting GQ axles under a landie and have the rear locker. I also had an old Subaru (Justy here in the UK, not sure you have them in OZ) with vacuum operated 2/4wd selection via switch on gear selector. I have rescues the solenoid from this and it certainly looks like it will do the job. There is also a 2 way diaphragm on the gearbox for the 2/4wd selection that might be worth a look as a possible cheap repair of the Nissan one. These old Justys are 2 a penny in the scrap yards round here.