Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok i know someone is going to say "use the search luke use the search" but i already have and came up with nothing so here goes how huch work is there in putting wide track diffs under a narrow track lwb trayback chassis??? Is it a simple matter of moving the spring perches or is it more complicated than that.

perches inboard and flanges on the diffs probably won't match. Make that definently

What year is the lwb. Late 1l ones like my 84 had the same size unis as the 1.3 so you could just swap the ends on the drive shaft instead of pulling the flange off the diff. Very easy.

I just did this swap I'll put up some pics of the difference in width for ya

1 litre grills still rock.

ok the lwb is an 82 model so what has to be done to the wt diffs to make them fit (im a dummy i need details and pics)

Not sure on the diffs.

-Mick- have you done any mods to the bar to mount it as i don't like the factory arb mounts.

also what tyres are those.

cheers

nicbeer wrote:Not sure on the diffs.

-Mick- have you done any mods to the bar to mount it as i don't like the factory arb mounts.

also what tyres are those.

cheers

No they're arb mounts Have to change them one day to suit the body lift anyway

Pro Comp x-terrains 31x10.5

I have wt diffs under my nt lwb ute. You will need to cut the mounts off the diffs and move them inboard to mate up to your spring hangers on the chassis. The wt were about 50mm wider either side. Remember measure and measure and measure to make sure the new perches are in the right place

grimbo wrote:Remember measure and measure and measure

Measure and cut, then swear, then measure and cut again

Damo wrote:

grimbo wrote:Remember measure and measure and measure

Measure and cut, then swear, then measure and cut again

Then swear, then try to weld on some more metal, then blow a hole in the metal, then swear, then ...

Its a nasty cycle this one. If not confident, there are plenty of shops that could help you out.

nah forget the shops ill just get my boiler maker mate to do the welding for me!!! so i take it all the steering and brake lines all just bolt up or do i need to modify anything else??

you'll need the steering gear off a wt. make sure your front wt comes with it

w/t run single brake line to the rear diff going to one side than branching of to the other side ,were n/t run seperate lines for either side , i would think that you would won't to extend the front brake lines as well to compensate for the little extra width ,

as for the flanges just remove the w/t ones and install the ones off your n/t

cool thanks for all the input guys you've been very helpful now all i need to do is get hold of some wt diffs (anyone got some they want to sell/swap)

Can someone tell me if i get some WT diffs, do i need the steering box and pitman arm of the WT for my NT 1.3?

What steering bits do i need of the WT?
Will i now have two handbrakes? as the NT is off the transfer.
What brake mods need doing because of the different lines.

Also - can you buy these perches off the shelf or is it a make up job.

cheers

nicbeer wrote:Can someone tell me if i get some WT diffs, do i need the steering box and pitman arm of the WT for my NT 1.3?

What steering bits do i need of the WT?
Will i now have two handbrakes? as the NT is off the transfer.
What brake mods need doing because of the different lines.

Also - can you buy these perches off the shelf or is it a make up job.

cheers

hey nic. Not entirely sure what their actual name is But just the two long arms off the diff is what you need.

You will have two handbrake setups so ditch one. Easiest to leave it on the xfer and just not connetct the diff h brake.

Perches you can buy from BBO

Brake mods..... I'm not entirely sure. I don't remember doing any Mine works good. Inka was asking me what I did there the other day but I got nuthin

Cool, cheers Mick.

On the brakes> did you use both the NT lines and join into one line for the WT config or did you spit the lines on the WT diff and use both the lines from the NT.

I have never looked but am guessing the handbrake is cable on the rear of the WT's?

cheers

Nic

nicbeer wrote: I have never looked but am guessing the handbrake is cable on the rear of the WT's?

Nic

yeah it is I tried to use the diff brake but swb cable + lwb = booty. I'm swapping back

The brakes........ ummm. All I remember was the nt stuff was SO stripped the lines had to be cut to get the diff out I believe I used the entire wt diff line setup and joined it to my nt chassis lines where they first go up into the chassis from the diff.

Yeah That makes sense

2 handbrakes would be cool. kinda like cutting brakes.

Any chance of a couple pics Mick? Just of around the rear diff near where the brakes go up to the chassis and where the perches have been moved.

If you email them or post them up. i'm sure someone else wouldn't mind them.

cheers

Nic

I can post some tomorrow for ya mate the cars at the gf's I'm not

Cheers. just piecing together ideas.

Did you end up getting any pics Mick?

Or if anyone else can answer the Q also regarding the brakes issue of mulitiple lines of a nt compared to WT. will it matter.

cheers

interested in this set up to... and yes Layton.. i did search! spent the last hour browsing the WT/NT debate! lol

have obtained a WT zuki, but currently trying to toss up between diff swap and engine swap or body swap to the WT chassis?!? likeable problems I may encounter, if other members have done this body swap!??

Pics of swap process!?

ok if im WAY of the mark, is anyone keen for a spot of perch welding!??

foolsp33d wrote:interested in this set up to... and yes Layton.. i did search! spent the last hour browsing the WT/NT debate! lol

have obtained a WT zuki, but currently trying to toss up between diff swap and engine swap or body swap to the WT chassis?!? likeable problems I may encounter, if other members have done this body swap!??

Pics of swap process!?

ok if im WAY of the mark, is anyone keen for a spot of perch welding!??

NT spring spacings on WT diffs will give you more forced articulation due to leverage. So swap the diffs.

nicbeer wrote:
-Mick- have you done any mods to the bar to mount it as i don't like the factory arb mounts.

I beefed the mounts of my ARB bar to handle winch.
The drivers side picks up off the left over steer box hole after power steer was added and the pass side i have welded 5mm angle to the bar and U-bolted it down to the chassis.
here are some pics

Also ran a tube through the front origonal tube and bent it up (suit body lift) to pick up on the bar side mounts (last pic)

Pass side

D/side

As for WT/NT diff conversion...here is my 2c worth.......

I had a complete WT SWB so I had lots of bits to choose from

With the tail shafts I use a combination of WT and NT to suit flages on case and centers

Mesure carefully as the perches are not exactly 100mm wider and I think front and rear are different

When welding do it slowly moving from perch to perch after a small weld or you risk warping the housing

The rear WT brake lines are needed (due to width) but need to be reshaped around the new perches and some brake line mounts need moving

Steering box is the same but WT tie rod and drag link are needed

Advantage of moving perches as opposed to spring hangers is (apart from more travel ) is the tyres wont rub on the springs at full lock

If you want to run the diff handbrake on a LWB you can get a buy a Suzuki post 88 WT LWB hanbrake cable, I bought one but never used it as I ended up using sierra front calipers and discs with a spidertrax disc converion kit.

My 86 NT LWB rear brake line and my 88.5 WT rear brake line set up was the same (single to single) so i had no issues here, although the spidertrax brakeline kit offered optons for this problem.

here are some pics

thx for the arb pics. i have tackeled it bit differently now.

did u end up using the brake prop valve in your setup?

Nic

nicbeer wrote:thx for the arb pics. i have tackeled it bit differently now.

did u end up using the brake prop valve in your setup?

Nic

I opted the easy way out and bought a full kit from spidertrax which included the the prop valve, its mounted under the master cylinder.
Would love to have it internal mounted (i think illegal) so you could adjust on the fly so in the wet it can be you could back it off or on with a load.
over all i love the conversion (no more cleaning mud out)
some sort of backing plate would be nice to spot small rocks flung off the front wheels getting caught between the disc and pad

Mark

hyzook wrote:

nicbeer wrote:thx for the arb pics. i have tackeled it bit differently now.

did u end up using the brake prop valve in your setup?

Nic

I opted the easy way out and bought a full kit from spidertrax which included the the prop valve, its mounted under the master cylinder.
Would love to have it internal mounted (i think illegal) so you could adjust on the fly so in the wet it can be you could back it off or on with a load.
over all i love the conversion (no more cleaning mud out)
some sort of backing plate would be nice to spot small rocks flung off the front wheels getting caught between the disc and pad

Mark

Super, cheers.

Any chance on some pics of where and how it is mounted up. on here or PM me for email addy.

nicbeer wrote:

hyzook wrote:

nicbeer wrote:thx for the arb pics. i have tackeled it bit differently now.

did u end up using the brake prop valve in your setup?

Nic

I opted the easy way out and bought a full kit from spidertrax which included the the prop valve, its mounted under the master cylinder.
Would love to have it internal mounted (i think illegal) so you could adjust on the fly so in the wet it can be you could back it off or on with a load.
over all i love the conversion (no more cleaning mud out)
some sort of backing plate would be nice to spot small rocks flung off the front wheels getting caught between the disc and pad

Mark

Super, cheers.

Any chance on some pics of where and how it is mounted up. on here or PM me for email addy.

Here is a pic of the prop valve, i run a 4door vit master cyl and booster with 4door vit vented disks and callipers at front.