Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The drivers side rear axle seal is leaking on my ln106 hilux.

i would just like to know if its possible to replace the seal without to much trouble. ive heard you have to replace bearings aswell.

any advice on how to go about this would be welcome

thanx

I may be wrong but I think you can just replace the seal if neccessary.

Last time I took off the wheel, removed the 4 bolts that hold the brake/stud part to the axle housing and removed the axle and brake in 1 piece. (Have to undo the brake line and hand brake cable) The seal is in the end of the axle housing, out with a screwdriver and replace. This stopped mine leaking last time.

Hope this makes sense.

There is no need to replace the bearings for the seal that is leaking diff oil.

Just pop off the handbrake cable and brake line, undo the 4 bolts holding it all in, slide it all out and you will see the seal that needs replacing right at the end of the housing. Pop it out with a screwy and tap the new one in.

Easy as. Replacing the bearing without the proper tools is a nightmare!

As Phippsy said you can replace them, undo 4 bolts undo brakes and pull axle out replace seal and you are done, be carefull though as i had leaking seal issue and found it to be a bearing problem, it took 3 seal replacements for me to work this out which can be very painfull

There are two seals, an inner and an outer. Bearings can cause a problem and mine have stopped leaking since putting a new inner seal on and axles with better bearings(long story).

Basically the bearing may be causing the problem and is common, buy an inner seal and check your bearing when you pull it apart.

DO NOT buy new bearings from repco/peps/supercheap etc, they want something like $160 retail each or $115 trade. Find a specialist bearing centre and they sell them for about $60-$70 each retail.

Thats if the bearings are stuffed though

Make sure u knock the inner seals in evenly like using a same size socket with a extension on it ,also have had more success using the genuine toyota inner seal over the after market ones

I just used a flat fence paling

high n mighty wrote:I just used a flat fence paling

lump of timber worked for me too..

Wood also worked for me aswell. You might want to take care with the O ring when replaceing the axle aswell

thanx everyone for the advice. i'll have to go get some seals and give it a go.

so your saying that the inner seal could be the problem. how far into the axle housing is it?? is it obvious? ive never pulled one appart

disconnect the brake hydraulic line and handbrake cable, undo the 4 bolts, slide out the axle and the seal is the thing you see in the end of the axle housing. The most common cause of failure of that seal, is failure of the wheel bearing, so before you go and buy parts, jack it up and give the wheel a spin - if there is any rumble then the bearing is gone. also check it for axial (in-out) play, if there is more than about 1mm in-out then the bearing is shot. harder to feel for is up-down/back-forward play. any of that and it's stuffed, too.

thanks dumbdunce.

what type of bearing is used on the rear axle? is it the same style as the front. ie: tapper bearing?

MudLux101 wrote:thanks dumbdunce.

what type of bearing is used on the rear axle? is it the same style as the front. ie: tapper bearing?

Nah, its a sealed roller bearing, its good because there is not preload to adjust, its bad because its a c*ntox to get out. Unless you got the right jig to do it.

I got someone else to replace the bearings last time and I think they used a cutting disk on a grinder, but I'm not sure. Would have to be really careful not to damage the axle though.

thought it would have to be a different setup.

i understand that the bearing is pressed onto the axle and is a pain to get off.

how does the bearing sit in the axle housing? is it pressed in also?

I'm pretty sure the bearing sits in the seal at the outer edge of the axle housing, I've used the 4 bolts to pull the axle back up tight to the seal a couple of times. Don't know if this is a good thing or not, but it worked.

Bazz107 wrote:As Phippsy said you can replace them, undo 4 bolts undo brakes and pull axle out replace seal and you are done, be carefull though as i had leaking seal issue and found it to be a bearing problem, it took 3 seal replacements for me to work this out which can be very painfull

I'm having the same prob on my 60 series too, what was the eventual prob with the bearings??? I've replaced them and made surre they were packed good and proper, just thought it was me damaging the seal putting the axle back in, but I've been bloody careful after having to redo the first one.
Cheers.

in relation to the hilux bearings.
it would be a good idea to replace the bearings as when the seal leaks it leaks onto the bearing first then it exits after the bearing, in effect this also washes the grease out of the bearing so then all the bearing runs on is the crapy oil wich dosen't last for long then you have to replace the bearing anyway & the seal again.

thats a good point. i just dont have access to a press so i might have to leave them in there and see how they go.

just put them in the later problem basket

Gribble wrote:
Nah, its a sealed roller bearing, its good because there is not preload to adjust, its bad because its a c*ntox to get out. Unless you got the right jig to do it.

it's actually a single row ball bearing.

even the factory manual suggests using a die grinder to cut the races and a chisel to split them. from memory you can tap off the backing plate first then get cracking with the grinder and chisel. first cut and split the outer race off, then the inner. you need to cut about 2/3 through then give it a sharp whack with a chisel, it will split and come off easily. use the thinnest cutting disk you canget your hands on, the pferd 1mm x 100mm ones are excellent.

you don't need a press to fit the new ones, just get it all set up to get them on there (axles and backing plates all cleaned up etc, axles standing on end at a convenient working height - on a bench or milk crate or whatever) and put the new bearings in your mum's oven, 120C for about an hour, the heat expands the new bearing and retainer ring to that they easily slip over the axle. do the bearings first, let the whole assembly cool, then get the retainers on there. wear leather or heatproof gloves.


cheers

Brian

Heres a write up on the rear wheel bearing replacement with some pix
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/wheelbearings.htm
Hope it helps

Travis

Has no one ever seen the jig for doing hilux bearings?
And a peice of pipe to press/hammer them back on?

Ur all living in the stone age!

thanx nice surf. its a pitty the pics are so crappy in that link

i have never done a rear wheel bearing so i dont know what this jig your talking about is.

Any pics Gribble??

Gribble wrote:Has no one ever seen the jig for doing hilux bearings?
And a peice of pipe to press/hammer them back on?

Ur all living in the stone age!

pics?

Apologies for the quality, i only got a 0.1mp phone camera!

Basically, you slide it over the 4 studs, fit the nuts onto the studs and wind in the bolt with a breaker bar. You could use a rattle-gun if you wanted to. Its also easier if you chisel the lock-ring off first. Oh and dont forget to take off the circlip either!

The way to use the pipe is pretty self explanitory. Bearing first, then lock-ring. Make sure its standing on blocks of wood on the stud plate or you risk rooting the wheel studs. Hammer it down until the circlip fits in.

MudLux101 wrote:thanx nice surf. its a pitty the pics are so crappy in that link

I know as I done that write up and I only got the digi cam that day and it was a bit dark and I was still getting used to the camera and auto focus
Yeah Yeah I know excuses excuses

Nice_surf

Hi
Heres another article that may be of some help too

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/rear_axle/wheel_bearing/

Cheers

thanx. that's a good link you found there rusty.

Here is a pic of a home made jig using an old axle housing.