Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just bought snake hi steer but my drivers side tie rod end pulls down 2 far causin the ruber boot to tear any ideas any 1 to stop this or what could b causin this

call the fat man get him to sort it out

sounds typical of Snake Racing, things not machined within tollerances etc etc.

atleast your histeer arms actually fitted over your kingpin bearings ok, benny and rod both had dramas.

also, Rod's wheel spacers are an absolute pain in the ass to fit a socket into to do up the wheel nuts!!!

well benny & dave r both havin probs with there studs that hold there arms in place snapin
dave had 3 snap 8 weeks ago cost him a new hub
benny had 1 snap
any help with these probs 2 please

sorry to high jack your post Micky but does anyone know why the studs keep snapping????????

its all good just got sick of waitin to put a post up

Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 5:31 am

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I think the problem has been fixed over early versions, but make sure that the cone washers are under adequate pressure from the stud nut and washer. On mine an early version the tapers had been bored too deep and it was necessarry to pack another washer to fit into taper on top of cone washer. Other people i know had studs sheer off because the cone washers werent doing their job properly.

Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 7:26 pm

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If they are new then they are still no better than the first set that were fitted to a certain cruiser up here over 2 years ago. This locator should be machined to factory tolerances not sanded down till it fits. If this is the case i would be taking them back. Also the first set i had seen the Cones would not even locate in the right spot as they had been machined totaly wrong. The Ti-rod holes were also machined to deap in the arm and the ti-rod would bind on the rubber boot when flexed.

. The Ti-rod holes were also machined to deap in the arm and the ti-rod would bind on the rubber boot when flexed.

thats xactly what mine r doin ther 6 weeks old done 2000km
ive been on the phone to him 2 days in a row tryin 2 give me run around
1st he said somthin probly riped the ruber i told him the end was just pulled threw 2 tight so he cancelled 2days met up & pushed it back till 2 morro

Beebee was busting/bending studs a fair bit. PM him and ask what he did. He told me but without looking at it I couldnt visualise it. I havent heard of him breaking any since.

John

yeah i got the later arms and so does krawla did the same thing happen to you spazbot and how did you fix it ????

can you get longer studs and just pack the nut up with washers

there are 2 main problems with 99% of the hi-steer arms sold here.
1: cone seats and cones are of a different taper, therefore acting like balls and the studs tend to pivot and bend rather then providing an adequate seat.
2: the kingpin stud/spigot just bolts on to the plate (arm). the best fit you can achieve with a bolted joint is +/- .2mm , so all this does is help add slop to the setup and snap more bolts. in terms of engineering design this setup is a joke.

PS not hassling anyone in particular, because its not there fault. they just got some machine shop to make them as cheap as possible and sorta strong. if you copy crap then you get crap.

We fixed BB's ones by welding them on and making new spigots out of 4140 black bar rather then the k1045 that came with the arms.(and only drilled them the RIGHT depth!)

thanks for that mad engineer do ypu have any pics to show or is my idea in my last post o.k cause this prob of snapping studs is really sh1ting me

snake is selling longer and supposely stronger studs but not sure if that will help the prob

Who runs the other brands of high steer sold in Aus? And has anyone had any problems?
In particular M&M engineering have what looks to be a good high steer setup.
Who runs ORI (chaos) high steer or low steer double arm?

What would you guys recomend? High steer (if yes what brand) or ORIs double arm low steer and just get a super beefy tie rod that will take a beating mounted down low?
Paul.

HUNTERLUX wrote:

. The Ti-rod holes were also machined to deap in the arm and the ti-rod would bind on the rubber boot when flexed.

thats xactly what mine r doin ther 6 weeks old done 2000km
ive been on the phone to him 2 days in a row tryin 2 give me run around
1st he said somthin probly riped the ruber i told him the end was just pulled threw 2 tight so he cancelled 2days met up & pushed it back till 2 morro

Will have to mill the top of the arm down
Also I stripped and snaped bolts in mine,So I up graded to 9/16 UNF bolts now the only prob is that they come loose (this is with welded flipped arm), Going to open the top arm to fit a socket down and reuse the original cone washers with the bottom arm

I haven't broken any studs since welding the arms to the hub.

I don't think stronger studs is the fix as I have pulled the thread out of the hub a few times too.

as any 1 had there arm milled down to suit the tie rod end if so what did it cost & were at

mate just ground down the top of his arms to give correct fit of t/r

Anyone had problems with the ORI double arm?

I'm thinking of getting one of these soon, or should I just stick with welded arm (would have to get the welds X rayed).

BTW I hear Snake Racing are supposed to be releasing a cast double arm very soon- I was considering it but maybe not after reading this thread.

i made a set of my own, machined them from 65mm square M200 tool steel, its pretty much the same as 4140. kept diameters of knobs within .01mm of factory. i figured factory tolerances were the way to go.

slosh wrote:Anyone had problems with the ORI double arm?

I'm thinking of getting one of these soon, or should I just stick with welded arm (would have to get the welds X rayed).

BTW I hear Snake Racing are supposed to be releasing a cast double arm very soon- I was considering it but maybe not after reading this thread.

I highly recommend the ORI cast double arm, there is one on aza's lux, fitted as should straight away, even with us having one of the taper's machined differently

I don`t understand that people have had trouble getting them to go on, I have had 4 different pairs of arms on mine and have never had trouble getting them on, I`m NOT talking about the tie rod taper or the holes for the cones here just getting them in the bearing. Standard arms are some times a bitch to get to go on, if its not lined up right its going to be a bitch to get on.


I`m not replying to this thread again and Ruff knows why.

We probably sell more Snake Racing gear than just about anyone in Aus, and I have never had anything come back due to poor quality. 99.999% of the time, it is the tool holding the tools!! In any case, Ryan is very easy to get a hold of, and will do whatever he needs to, to help you out. Perhaps this avenue should be persued before going on a public forum to complain.

One way of stopping snapped studs is to at the end of each day when 4x4ing check that the nuts on the studs are tight, when not 4x4ing do it about once a month. The way I see it is the more you modify your rig the harder the driving you are going to be doing and the harder the driving the more preventative maintance you need to do. Most people that put high steer on are running 35+ tyres and the extra stress that this adds is massive not to meantion, locks and low psi in the tyres and I think you find that toyota never allowed for this much extra srtess when they decided on the stud size.

I know this isn`t fixing the problem but it is a very simpal way of dealing with it. When I was snapping studs when I 1st went high steer (I think I was the 1st lux in Aus, Bj was 1st overall on his cruiser) I was never checking they were tight, after about 3 trips I`d snap studs. Once I started tightening them each day or so I never snapped another one in 18 months.

Guts wrote:(I think I was the 1st lux in Aus, Bj was 1st overall on his cruiser)

I had a HiSteer setup on my cruiser in 1996. Custom Made.

Maggot4x4 wrote:

Guts wrote:(I think I was the 1st lux in Aus, Bj was 1st overall on his cruiser)

I had a HiSteer setup on my cruiser in 1996. Custom Made.

High steer or just cross over? What suspension setup were you running?

Guts wrote:

Maggot4x4 wrote:

Guts wrote:(I think I was the 1st lux in Aus, Bj was 1st overall on his cruiser)

I had a HiSteer setup on my cruiser in 1996. Custom Made.

High steer or just cross over? What suspension setup were you running?

SOA with both arms above the springs (from memory) sold it 7 years ago.

Well there you go, learn something new everyday

i fitted snake hysteer on my hilux had 35s gave it absoulte hell never had a problem. it was hard to fit but there was nothing wrong with the arms

BBM Rick wrote:We probably sell more Snake Racing gear than just about anyone in Aus, and I have never had anything come back due to poor quality. 99.999% of the time, it is the tool holding the tools!! In any case, Ryan is very easy to get a hold of, and will do whatever he needs to, to help you out. Perhaps this avenue should be persued before going on a public forum to complain.

dont take this thread the wrong way im not complaining im just askin is there an easy & cheap fix to my problems as he was dificult & hard 2 reach due 2 him getin back from holidays If i was complanin my post would of read
dont by shyty snake x over but it didnt

but from what ive read & been told by other people whove had the same prob im goin 2 try another brand tie rod end other than the 1 snake sells ill keep u posted on the results a this seems 2 of fixed the prob on his xover

[quote="Guts"]One way of stopping snapped studs is to at the end of each day when 4x4ing check that the nuts on the studs are tight, when not 4x4ing do it about once a month. quote]

you shouldnt have too do that if they are tight in the first place


he sells longer and stronger studs to suit just trying to track him down.. cant get hold off him......

after sales service i think could do with some attention