Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I posted this question in the thread bagging snake arms but thought it belonged in its own.

Who has Hi steer? What brand? Have you had any probs?
Who is running ORIs double arm low steer? any probs?

What would people recomend? Hi steer or low double arm with a beefy tie rod?

Paul.

Snake high steer

Broke a few studs back when I had one of the 1st 5 pairs that were made, I now have the new ones and all is cool so far.

I`d say high steer is the better option.



I think the 2 piece ones that I think ORI sell would be the worst.

Guts wrote:I think the 2 piece ones that I think ORI sell would be the worst.

Two piece? The ORI one is a cast double arm.

Are you talking about the welded double arm from Superior engineering?

Paul.

Guts wrote:Snake high steer

Broke a few studs back when I had one of the 1st 5 pairs that were made.

Have you seen what they are building in the US to solve the broken studs problem?
Look at this thread on Pirate
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319757
Looks interesting
Paul.

No I`m talking about the high steer arms, I think it ORI (might be somebody else that sells them) that sell the 2 piece one, the pin for the bearing is pressed and bolted to the top part of the arm.

ausyota wrote:

Guts wrote:Snake high steer

Broke a few studs back when I had one of the 1st 5 pairs that were made.

Have you seen what they are building in the US to solve the broken studs problem?
Look at this thread on Pirate
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319757
Looks interesting
Paul.

Ok now since marlin is going to the expense of making new 6 bolt knuckles there must be alot of people that snap studs. So to all the people that are bitching about snapping studs when you have gone to high steer, you not alone and the maker of your arms isn`t the only one that makes arms that help in the breaking of studs, its a world wide problem.

I like the idea of this with the rib

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachme ... tid=167531

You cant link pics direct from pirate.
but I see the ones you mean on page 3 of the Pirate thread.
Paul.

I don`t go to pirate very often anymore, I used to be there more then I`m on here now and there was only 2500 members back then now there is 41000 or something, the site sucks now and there are too many people that think they are better then everybody else.


But yes the ones on page 3, the rib would take so much of the stress off the bolt it wouldn`t be funny.

Guts wrote:I don`t go to pirate very often anymore, I used to be there more then I`m on here now and there was only 2500 members back then now there is 41000 or something, the site sucks now and there are too many people that think they are better then everybody else.

I agree 100%

I have snake racings hi steer arms and rock rods on my rig and have had no problems with them so far....the kit came with new threaded studs as well.

Hard to tell but I think they are the newer ones, does the cone seats have ridges in them and come with new studs etc?

i am putting hi steer in now.
if i break studs, i will make some from R4, the material they make v8 supercar head studs from. i'll put my money on them being far stronger than stock toyota ones.

Increasing the strength of the studs has limited advantages as you're still only threading into a cast hub. I have broken and bent studs as well as torn the thread from the swivel hub. The 4 studs are simply not enough to handle the maximum "worst case scenareo" load. Fine for street and most 4wding but not all

fair enough. hopefully i dont break the stock ones.

guts 2 set the record straight i never baged snakes hi steer out
the post was hijacked by other shyt about his arms my only prob was
with the tie rod end pullin threw 2 tight i found a few others with this problem but they didnt want 2 bag the product out so they pmed me
im tryin another after market brand tie rod end its a touch biger taper

No skin off my back dude

I like the 5th bolt idea that would take alot of the twist out from the studs And limit them from snapping And fine thread and high tensile bolts would help stop them from stripping and possibly to stop them coming loose is to weld a bit of flat bar or round bar to each other.

I posted this question in the thread bagging snake arms but thought it belonged in its own.

Who has Hi steer? What brand? Have you had any probs?
Who is running ORIs double arm low steer? any probs?

What would people recomend? Hi steer or low double arm with a beefy tie rod?

Paul.

G'day Paul

Gonad's high steer kits came out after Snakes but seem to be holding up well so far as we havent heard from anyone with issues. Ours are designed slightly different to the other units avaliable so there is not as much leverage. But at the end of the day it is important to ensure when they are correctly machined and that there is no play in the studs & cones.

Always interested in feedback so those running the kit let us know how they are going.

Cheers

call me slow but is it road legal in Qld. i would imagine you need a mod plate at least.
2ndly is it worth doing if im not into rock hoping, i prefer mud to rock and havent bent a steering arm yet.
its a dualcab petrol with springovers

snake histeer kit
PITA to fit (tight tolerances) but no complaints otherwise

I am using a double flip arm that Overkill fabbed up for X-over steer. It uses bolts only instaed of the studs and cone washers etc.
What is the benefit of the cones compared to bolts alone? Are the cones there to keep them tight or to keep them centered?
My bolts have come loose once allready and I had to get them replaced as 2 of them warped slightly.

Just wondering if I should drill out the top welded arm to reuse the cones and studs.

Cheers,

Alec

Surfin Alec wrote:
Just wondering if I should drill out the top welded arm to reuse the cones and studs.

Cheers,

Alec

Yes do that now

Budget option.



Fabbed this one myself (well an educated mate did) cost $40, {$20 for the passenger side tie rod/king pin mount and $20 for the new bolts}. Grind tops flat - grind off king pin from new mount, invert, weld and bolt. We threw in the triangle for added strength. Has erased all bump steer.

i run standard steering but with the assistance of a superior engineering rock rod. made from heavy duty chrome-moly and it looks tough enough. i havent had a wheel with it in yet, but i'll let you know how it goes.