Outer Limits 4x4 Board

A few question for you all -

Where would I get the ball thingy from the photo attached and what is it called?

Is this better then std setup? Why? How?

I realise that it would allow the radius arm to manoeuvre a lot freer but would it move too freely?

Mick
www.online4x4.net

Rose joint???

I would assume it will allow more articulation and droop travel as it wont bind like a bush as the axle drops. It should also allow an adjustment in the radius arm lengths if you want that for whatever reason (alter the wheelbase, alter the pinion angle???)

Mate, I'm no expert.

To get the rear axle to droop more you need to reduce the limiting action of the bush at the chassis end of the trailing arms. You can do this a bit by bending the trailing arms, and do it even more by replacing the bush with a rose or heim joint. Or you could do both.
http://www.rovertym.com/heimrearlinks.htm
You can probably get the joints from an engineering supplies shop - make sure you get decent graded ones like those at:
http://www.bajaconcepts.com/heims&bushings.htm

This will free up the rear axle to droop until hit hits the next limiting factor - like your limit of your shock travel, or your spring comes out or...

And yup, too much droop can make you tippy. Also, there is lots of discussion about the merits of keeping the front and rear balanced so all the travel is not just at the rear. Don't claim to know the right answer to that one, still investigating it myself.

All IFS 4bys have all the travel at the rear. I'd like to know the answer to that as well!!!!

Generic name for ball thingy is spherical rod end (in UK some call them rose joints, in USA they call them heim joints).

Most bearing manufactures make them. There are many variations - study the specs, especially the static (Co) & dynamic (C) load ratings.

You can buy them from places that sell bearings, also good places that sell bolts often carry them.

They wear and when they become loose are noisy.

But you might find that you can't get them engineered for road use - check!

IMO there is nothing wrong with the stock rubber RR triangular bush. If you want to do anything with the rear links then just make them longer and mount the chassis mount up higher on the chassis so it doesent get hung up on rocks.

The stock rubber mount wont limit your travel before the centre A frame ball does. So changing to a heim IMO doesent achieve anything.

Sam

Sam is right. Not only should you ixtend them, but you should also creat a "kink" in them so that when you flex really and droooop one tire real low...niehter bush on the frame or the diff will bind...I found that this kink adds a LOT of "ease" for the tires to flex. My rear links have a 12 cm kink vertically and are 2cm extended to the rear. This is with an OME 2" lift.

My rear links.
Cranked top match spring Lift and adjustable in lth.

G'day,

I suggest you leave the chassis bush as it is (maybe moving it up as Sam said), but do bend them like HSV Rangie has. Don't bother with Hemi joints unless you plan to put a new suspension setup on your rangie, because your springs and shock will restrict your travel.

If your going to run hemi joints you will need to make a new A-frame which has a Hemi joint in it too, to get the best flex.

the last thing you will want is your spring hanging out all over the place

You will also need to limit the amount of down travel as at full droop with heim joints and some traction the diff simple wants to drive under the car. The standard rover bush is a good median. Kinked arms work well but need to be strong.

Anyway you can get these parts from www.trailcraft.net.au

Megaman wrote:You will also need to limit the amount of down travel

Anyway you can get these parts from www.trailcraft.net.au

Or you can drive something a bit harder than the rock garden at woollies.And they will bend the same as the picture .Fancy selling bent arms SHONKY Dudelux,S Do what sam said you wont get hung up again ,you will with bent arms .