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Non 4WD Related - FWD to RWD Conversion...?

General Tech Talk

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Non 4WD Related - FWD to RWD Conversion...?

Post by Meldge »

Is it possible to convert a Front Wheel Drive vehicle to Rear Wheel Drive?

Legally in Queensland that is, a state where a Springover is Illegal...


I mean a transmission tunnel would have to be cut, seat mounts would need to be moved to fit that. Fuel tank, moved, maybe put a fuel cell in the boot. Rear control arm mounts removed, or maybe a rear floor pan from donor car welded in place to give all mounts...


Is this legal to do in QLD? Does anybody know?
Meldge...

86' Landcruiser - MWB Soft Top
Kustom, Kustom and more Kustom to Kome,
Store bought is not as fun...

[quote="Meldge"]Not too long, not to short, it's Middy - It's Just right... :armsup:[/quote]
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Post by adam.s »

It depends on the car really if it can be done or not.

but yes it can be engineered, it's been done before I'm sure.

What car are you planning to do it with?
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Post by Meldge »

Not sure, I have an Excel at the moment but also wouldn't mind doing it to a First Gen Honda Civic.

Turbo Rotary - 13B would be your best bet as they are a shortish engine.

Make a single piece engine mounting type cradle that bolts to the front crossmember position, and the side mounting positions.

Something like that would be fun and different, just not sure on how to do the rear half, and new seat mountings.
Meldge...

86' Landcruiser - MWB Soft Top
Kustom, Kustom and more Kustom to Kome,
Store bought is not as fun...

[quote="Meldge"]Not too long, not to short, it's Middy - It's Just right... :armsup:[/quote]
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Post by MARKx4 »

There was a mini around our area witha 13b in it. Isnt the subaru wagon front wheel drive when not in 4wd?
Its not cool, unless it's got boost :)
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Post by ca18escort »

Speaking as an engineer I would have to say that this would have to be a very big project. Getting the engine to fit would be the easy part. Making sure that it was modern enough to meet emmision laws that apply to the date the body was manufactured would be one problem the other would be the fact that you have to cut the floor pan which will cause a problem with the torsional stiffness and then you have to pay big money to get the torsion strength tested after you have modified the floor pan.

Cheers
Paul
1993 Triton V6 on the Build up.....not any more as I now have a Zook to play with.
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Post by Meldge »

Thanks Paul,

I wasn't worried about getting the engine in, it was getting the rest of it engineered that was the biggest concern.

I don't know what is involved in getting the torsional strength test done, but it is not something you hear of a lot either, that is a worry then.

Would some sort of sub frame be the best bet, bolted through existing points in the floor the same way as a roll cage is done. Maybe if the rear floor pan is cut out and a new section put in, the sub frame could run right through to the reinforcment bar in the rear end?

Just some ideas anyway...
Meldge...

86' Landcruiser - MWB Soft Top
Kustom, Kustom and more Kustom to Kome,
Store bought is not as fun...

[quote="Meldge"]Not too long, not to short, it's Middy - It's Just right... :armsup:[/quote]
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Post by I.M.P.O.S.E »

Meldge wrote:Not sure, I have an Excel at the moment but also wouldn't mind doing it to a First Gen Honda Civic.

Turbo Rotary - 13B would be your best bet as they are a shortish engine.

Make a single piece engine mounting type cradle that bolts to the front crossmember position, and the side mounting positions.

Something like that would be fun and different, just not sure on how to do the rear half, and new seat mountings.


Wasnt there an Xcel at the Nats with a Windsor in it?
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Post by adam.s »

ca18escort wrote:Speaking as an engineer I would have to say that this would have to be a very big project. Getting the engine to fit would be the easy part. Making sure that it was modern enough to meet emmision laws that apply to the date the body was manufactured would be one problem the other would be the fact that you have to cut the floor pan which will cause a problem with the torsional stiffness and then you have to pay big money to get the torsion strength tested after you have modified the floor pan.

Cheers
Paul


emissions is not that hard to meet if you fit LP gas.

what are your reasons for wanting RWD ?

there are like 8 second FWD drag cars, if that is what you are wanting it for - if you need more traction, look to suspension setup, LSD in the front, or fitting flares and wider tyres.

if someone can get a FWD car to 8 seconds, then you will be able to improve traction as well.

that is, if you are looking for more traction :)

there is a mini with a rover v8 mounted in the back as a RWD. quite tough
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Post by +dj_hansen+ »

All i have to say.. is why?

Our rover crew has a mini with a 318 hemi in the front... but its built around a tube space frame.

I the recent 4WD Monthly has a old school 340z on a rangie chassis. That might be something to look into, say a zook chassis and running gear with the body modded on top, would be far easier to enginner id imagine.

food for thought.
Cheers,
Dan.

[i]1996 HDJ80R[/i]
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Post by Meldge »

That would probably be an easier way out of it, but then it will sit like my fourby... If done it would be low, but i ain't going to worry about it anymore...

Too much work...
Meldge...

86' Landcruiser - MWB Soft Top
Kustom, Kustom and more Kustom to Kome,
Store bought is not as fun...

[quote="Meldge"]Not too long, not to short, it's Middy - It's Just right... :armsup:[/quote]
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Post by r0ck_m0nkey »

Meldge wrote:That would probably be an easier way out of it, but then it will sit like my fourby... If done it would be low, but i ain't going to worry about it anymore...

Too much work...


By the sounds of it, you wanted a small RWD hatchback to play around with. If thats the case why not look at a 1977-80 model Mazda 323 hatch. Is already RWD and i have seen more then one with a Rotary conversion done to them.
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h

Post by blackmav »

or you could get a lazer tx3 AWD and dissable the front drive ,strenghten the box??, put the jap spec ecu in it or programable , probably have to put a stonger rear diff in it after it brakes. no engineering at all. just a alot of fix ups when things brake.
kc lazer awd 1.6 about $3ooo
bpt front cut 1.8 turbo $2000
the bpt motors hook when you put a better induction , exaust on them.

but then again WHY. it wont handle.

or do what rock monkey suggested
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Post by bru21 »

Meldge wrote:Thanks Paul,

I wasn't worried about getting the engine in, it was getting the rest of it engineered that was the biggest concern.

I don't know what is involved in getting the torsional strength test done, but it is not something you hear of a lot either, that is a worry then.

Would some sort of sub frame be the best bet, bolted through existing points in the floor the same way as a roll cage is done. Maybe if the rear floor pan is cut out and a new section put in, the sub frame could run right through to the reinforcment bar in the rear end?

Just some ideas anyway...


i would re register it as an owner built car which can be done if you do a substancial enough mod. torsional testing costs $400 in qld per test and if it fails you have to fix and pay again. we are building a 7 which has to go through the same processes

cheer bru
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