Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Guys, I'm hunting for more traction, and as I'm broke lokkers are out of the question. I have LSD Rear, and standard mitsi open front in my 1985 NB 2.6 LWB. I have auto front hubs. What do you guys think about welding the front diff, especially regarding the longevity of CV's afterwards, and other pros and cons? All info is gratefully accepted!

Cheers, Dean

I'd be wary about locking it up with the auto hubs - I'm not sure you'd be able to reliably get the hubs to unlock if you were in a tricky situation and steering was an issue.

At least with manual hubs you'd be able to get your navvy to climb out and swing them with a 2ft shifter!

Go the manual hubs, then install the BOC locker!

Scott

AutoHubs + Welded Diff = Disaster

Save up your money and fit an air locker to the front...weld the rear instead !

Kingy

Yeah I agree with Kingy, I definitely wouldn't do it with auto-hubs and most likely wouldn't do it even with manual hubs.
A good upgrade is to flick the auto hubs and fit a set of Aisin manual hubs that came out in other Paj models.
Unfortunately you have a 4 cylinder and there is no locker available (ARB or Lokka) for yours other than a custom Detroit available here in Vic but will cost around $1500 anyway.

Bitsamissin wrote:and most likely wouldn't do it even with manual hubs.

With manual hubs there is the option of unlocking em to lighten off the steering and regaining the turning circle....the drama is loss of traction during that unlocked period. With auto hubs your farked.

Kingy

Bitsamissin wrote:Unfortunately you have a 4 cylinder and there is no locker available (ARB or Lokka) for yours other than a custom Detroit available here in Vic but will cost around $1500 anyway.

my bad ...... didnt know ARB didnt do an air locker for em.


Choice is therfore simple......

Dont weld the front...... Fit a Detroit Locker instead.

Yeah there are essentially 2 diffs used in the front of Paj's :-
- 7.25" (no lockers available except for custom Detroit)
- 8" (ARB, Lokka & custom Detroits available)

Another option is to convert to the later model 8" V6 (88-91) front centre and CV's it's all pretty much a bolt in affair. If he can find a cheap wreck do the work himself (or a mate) fit the manual hubs and go for a Lokka (about $700). He will end up with a much stronger front end as well.
Going the custom Detroit for his small front diff would probably cost more and wouldn't be nowhere near as strong or reliable.

Guys, I think you ahave convinced me, I'll just have to save my pennies and buy a later model, then get airlockers and a winch!

Cheers, Dean