Outer Limits 4x4 Board

after bein convinced u can fit x over without droppin hangers im gettin the chaos double arm x over, so besides that wat tie rods/ends, etc hav u's used? and wat pitman arm should i use coz its gonna be tight

i use an 80 series tie rod that was just modified to fit

Shortened a Hilux tie rod on the lathe. Standard Hilux tierod ends.
Hasn't let me down yet.

front range offroad do a weld in tappered insert to replace the ball joint in the standard ifs pitman arm and that will let you use 80s tierod ends,if your not going to drop front hangers you will have to shorten your up travel and probably need bumps stops

if i dont extend bump stops wat happens? doo tie rods hit chassis on passenger side

no your drivers side spring will hit the pitman arm

so should i still use the standard pitman arm or somethin else

I've just bought a Chaos double arm. You can choose to have it machined for the steering rod on top of arm or underneath.
If you choose to have it on top of the arm (less bump steer) Lachlan said the steering rod may hit the passenger side chassis rail during up travel (the top arm really is a bit too high- the new Snake racing ones are supposed to be lower).

Restricted up travel helps this, as does drop hangers.

I guess if you mounted the steering rod underneath the top arm then the next problem area would be the pitman arm hitting driver's side spring.

I think to make the X over work w/ out drop hangers you would need very short pitman arm (contact Superior Engineering) and 3"+ leaf spring lift with restricted up travel.
Josh.

slosh wrote:I've just bought a Chaos double arm. You can choose to have it machined for the steering rod on top of arm or underneath.
If you choose to have it on top of the arm (less bump steer) Lachlan said the steering rod may hit the passenger side chassis rail during up travel the top arm really is a bit too high- the new Snake racing ones are supposed to be lower).

Restricted up travel helps this, as does drop hangers.

I guess if you mounted the steering rod underneath the top arm then the next problem area would be the pitman arm hitting driver's side spring.

I think to make the X over work w/ out drop hangers you would need very short pitman arm (contact Superior Engineering) and 3"+ leaf spring lift with restricted up travel
Josh.

were did u get the steerin rod and how much

My x-over steer uses a doulbe flip arm (overkill special) w/o dropped hangers and the standard IFS box and pitman arm.
W/o bumpstops the drivers spring hits the pitman (bumpstop now stops it) on full travel.
Also the passenger side of the drag link hits the chassis on full travel (again trimmed bumpstop now stops it just short).
Sam made me a tie rod and drag link out of H/D fat as tube that is tapped to suit 80 series tie rods.

Alec

Surfin Alec wrote:My x-over steer uses a doulbe flip arm (overkill special)

is that similar to chaos doub. arm

Da Lux wrote:

slosh wrote:I've just bought a Chaos double arm. You can choose to have it machined for the steering rod on top of arm or underneath.
If you choose to have it on top of the arm (less bump steer) Lachlan said the steering rod may hit the passenger side chassis rail during up travel the top arm really is a bit too high- the new Snake racing ones are supposed to be lower).

Restricted up travel helps this, as does drop hangers.

I guess if you mounted the steering rod underneath the top arm then the next problem area would be the pitman arm hitting driver's side spring.

I think to make the X over work w/ out drop hangers you would need very short pitman arm (contact Superior Engineering) and 3"+ leaf spring lift with restricted up travel
Josh.

were did u get the steerin rod and how much

Superior Engineering about $200- it's just threaded tube with 80 series tie rod ends- but he supplies chrome moly ones like Surfin Alec has- mightn't be bad idea.

Pretty sure Chaos arm is very similar to flipped welded arm alot of people do- just a cast version (more engineer friendly).

so cost wise im lookin at 390 for chaos doub. arm, 200 -/+ for steerin rod and 50 for ifs box with standard pit arm(all up round 650). just a bit cheapa then snake x ova

Da Lux wrote:

Surfin Alec wrote:My x-over steer uses a doulbe flip arm (overkill special)

is that similar to chaos doub. arm

I thinks chaos is fabbed in 1 bit, Overkill is 2 arms machined and welded and uses bolts in place on the studs and cone washers etc.

Surfin Alec wrote:

Da Lux wrote:

Surfin Alec wrote:My x-over steer uses a doulbe flip arm (overkill special)

is that similar to chaos doub. arm

I thinks chaos is fabbed in 1 bit, Overkill is 2 arms machined and welded and uses bolts in place on the studs and cone washers etc.

any advantage with ovakill arms, maybe pic, and wat price

Check out my SAS pics at http://groups.msn.com/toyotasurf/thesur ... lbumlist=2 well most of it.

You can see the fabbed up arm in there.
Give Sam a call for a price, it was included in my SAS job.

Alec

Da Lux wrote:so cost wise im lookin at 390 for chaos doub. arm, 200 -/+ for steerin rod and 50 for ifs box with standard pit arm(all up round 650). just a bit cheapa then snake x ova

If you haven't bought the Chaos arm you will find that it now costs $460 instead of the (currently) advertised price of $390.

And yes that's what I felt like saying when told this. But it's still the cheapest choice by a fair bit.

Weigh up the freight for the bits to WA- it might be simpler to get engineering shop over there to machine and weld up some arms- then get them X rayed should satisfy engineer.

What it's cost me (and some of these are "mates rates")
IFS box- $200
Double arm- $460
Steering rod (drag link) with 80 series ends- $200
Rancho steer damper- $130
So that's $1000 there, and still need to fabricate mounts for IFS box and source extended shaft.

Add up the Snake hi steer- I think it would cost double that?