Outer Limits 4x4 Board

this is the contact details for a place in Brisbane to get polyethalene very cheaply. i got a 1000mm long by 60mm diameter cylendrical tube of this from this place for $40, which was more than ample, and the bloke at DOT said it was fine. You obviously cut it down to which ever size you want, drill the hole in the middle, and viola!! i only have the address for the QLD branch, but the phone numbers are there anyway.


DOTMAR Engineering Plastic Products

QLD:
Building 1, Unit 3
29 Lysaght St
Acacia Ridge Q. 4110
(07)34238997

Victoria:
(03) 9558 0666

NSW:
(02) 98785544

SA:
(08) 8443 8733

WA:
(08) 9456 4700

In addition, I got 1000mm at 75mm diameter for $60. I went for that size as it is the size of the front and rear mounts on my Middy, and 75mm also fits other mounts withuot fowling on anything.

E-PLAS PTY LTD
17 Darnick St Underwood 4119 (07) 3341 6400
Fax (07) 3341 6433

But QLD Transport Officer has also told me that the bolt hole you drill has to have a steel sleeve in it so that it doesn't chew out the inside of the block.

Try to get it in writing, to legally complete a body lift, you are supposed to send a letter to QLD Trans. asking if you can do it first, SO I'VE BEEN TOLD...

Correct Meldge, you need to apply for the letter thats says you can do it beofre you are allowed to, and then you have to go and get it inspected. The stupid part is they tell you that your not allowed to drive it , so how are you meant to get to the inspection?

The inspection is not only for the body lift but a full roadworthy. They are very picky and i got raped. Even though my hilux was only a year or so old and was pretty much stock. They picked things like:

* oil leakage on diff , where dickheads at toyota had spilt oil and not cleaned it up.

*Auxilary spotlights incorrectly mounted

*Speakbox not secure ( subs)

Excess play in the cv joints ,( had them inspected and toyota wrote a letter saying they were fine).


After fixing all of that i booked in again and this time was passed in about 30seconds, by a bloke who seemed alright. He signed my form etc.

Then a few months later i recieved a letter in the mail saying that i was driving a defective vehicle and hadnt showed up to the inspection. After exchanging a few choice words with DOT i was again over there having another inspection.

Turns out that he hadnt signed off on it on their records, only my form.

Since then i have been pulled over numerous times, never they have checked that its been approved, bar once, when the prices measured it with a ruler.

If you use a Steel sleeve in a plastic block the sleeve will "punch" thru the surface its mounted to.
You would be better with steel or ally blocks as they give a solid extension to the orig mounting point.
Most states dont allow other than metal blocks I thought, even in QLD regs??

Bazzle

the engineering plastic "Acetal" should be able to be used without a metal sleve, the stuff is as strong as steel, i've heard of some companies cutting gears out of it.
Chris

might give one of those places a call, i think the laws are a bit easy going down here in tas. wat sort of bolts would be best?

high tensile 8.8

qld law state that body blocks must be made of solid steel or aluminium
got that from dot in writing when asked what material to use!

I just called DOT in Brisbane to get the application letter sent to me. They said to use either
Alloy
Neoprene
Polyurothene
Steel

No mention of anything else. Perhaps they will send an info sheet with the form.

bazzle wrote:If you use a Steel sleeve in a plastic block the sleeve will "punch" thru the surface its mounted to.

What if you were to put a sleeved block under the original rubber mount? Then the sleeve wouldn't be touching the body. You could also make the sleeve slightly less than the height of the block leaving some wiggle room.

Where are you supposed to put the blocks anyway? Under, over or instead of the original rubber mounts? I've seen all three.

Used high density polyurethane for mine. Hard as a rock, and don't compress. 70mm OD x 800mm long for $70 from AB plastics in Hallam.

Drilled holes so the 10mm bolts are tight, to help sealing, and prevent slop. In VIC, sleeves / crush tubes aren't needed, but if used , engineer will want them 5mm or so shorter so they don't punch through the floor.

bigpat wrote:Used high density polyurethane for mine. Hard as a rock, and don't compress.

In VIC, sleeves / crush tubes aren't needed, but if used , engineer will want them 5mm or so shorter so they don't punch through the floor.

If hdpe doesn't compress, why do the crush tubes need to be shortened?

Personally, I used aluminium, and would use it again.

Scott

Yeah, I thought the same, but you have to allow for those who aren't so bright, and cut the crush tubes JUST to length, AND use the wrong material that compresses, and makes a mess......

Aluminium is trumps, bit HDPE is cheap, does a good job, and OK by engineers. The whole thing including. bolts cost me about $100.

aluminium hey? i think i can scrounge up half a dozen off cuts of 50mm OD from work and turn it up for nuthin! or is 50mm not thick enough? does it need to be 60+?

If your in tassie my dad got a 1m length of it (tough plastic stuff) for $36...

Some plastic place out moonah/derwent park don't worry about calling some mainland place lol....

I can ask where exactly from if u want.....

derelict, i would certainly be interested for $36! where abouts from? there are so many places that would sell that shit out in derwent park....which one?

I will find out tommorow (today for you)...

ditch wrote:derelict, i would certainly be interested for $36! where abouts from? there are so many places that would sell that shit out in derwent park....which one?

derelict_frog wrote:I will find out tommorow (today for you)...

I'm inerested to Derelict, gotta do body lift soon. could you post up here to inform us all?



Cheers

Your vehicle and reliability etc is worth Thosands $$$$.
But you want cheap body lift materiial??

Di it right 1st time. Use ally or steel..

Bazzle

roc70y wrote:the engineering plastic "Acetal" should be able to be used without a metal sleve, the stuff is as strong as steel, i've heard of some companies cutting gears out of it.
Chris

There is a certain agricultural company that used this for the gears in its headers, as a replacements for the steel ones.

They found that the black soil in the cotton areas was actually getting pressed into the surface of the gear & forming a hard skin & the gears were essentially running on soil v's soil.

The result was they weren't wearning out so they changed back to steel

"The polystyrene company" in derwent park, dad told me about an hour ago i think thats wat he told me...

just my 2 bobs worth. for any one that may be in the A.C.T the rules are are . no more than 2 inch body lift and the blocks must be sollid steel or aluminium. i asked an enginer mate last night cause im thinking of giveing the paj a body lift

When I got my alloy body lift it cost $60 for the alloy one time and $80 the next.

For $20 is it worth it?

HDPE seems strong enough though... my first bodylift was HDPE.

Easily strong enough on a weak suzuki...

I was wondering if Bronze would be any good for a GQ body lift as I have 12 inches of 3' dia it so it would be fine to do a shorty (6 mounts?).

Sell the bronze and use half to buy the steel or Ally

Isn't pure bronze rather soft unless its mixed with an alloy? or is it strong to start of with?

You might want to check that out......

Bronze is a copper and tin alloy developed to improve the strength and working ability of both from memory but last time I sold some to the metal recycler it was worth more than aluminium.

bump!

been told not to use aluminium, as it has been known to punch through the floor!!

maybe plastic is the way to go

If they are even and bolted down tight they should be right as the expensive ones like ones from snake racing etc are alaminuim and they are the real legal ones, in some places plastic is not legal even though in some cases its better :/