Outer Limits 4x4 Board

For those without a hoist.

If this method shouldn't be used tell me, however it was quick and effective, i wrote this up in my members area and decided to add it here. For those without a bodylift, remove the word bodylift

Loosen all body mounts

Remove the bolts from one side

Place jack, or jacks in the wheel arches on top of the tyre and jack up body, Don't forget to use a big bit of wood or something to spread the load on top of the jack. Jack slowly and only raise the necessary amount

Slide out bodylift blocks and remove old mounts

Slide in new body mounts place bodylift on top

Put bolts in and screw nuts on a few threads

Repeat above on other side

Progressively tighten each mount so that excessive stress isn't put on the body

Check nuts in a few days

Enjoy the more comfortable ride with less squeeks, clunks and groans!!!!


Cheers
Rob

pretty much 100% same as the bodylift instructions on me site

Cool mate, at least i was on the money

TUFFRANGIE wrote:Cool mate, at least i was on the money

did ya do a body lift?

Its amazing the difference with new body blocks...

Already had the body lift mate but the car was groaning and clunking so i bit the bullet, wish i did it ages ago!!!!

such a simply thing but one that can save a lllot of tool throwing etc....

drown the nut in CRC/wd etc..... if you have an older gq particularly a week before you start.....

mine would have been so much more pleasurable.... dam rusty shit

me and my cousin (zebel) done his mav shorty 50mm body lift yesterday.. peice of piss. took maybe 2 hours from start to finish. done it the same way u said. i previously had done mine though so i knew what was goin on..

What's a new set of body mounts worth for a LWB? Is it just the rubber that you get or what?

Thanks

when you do a 50mm bodylift, do you have to adjust/modify the 4wd shifter? if so how?

We just took my body lift out using that method. Were did you get the new body rubbers from? I wouldnt mind changing mine in the MK.

Bingham wrote:such a simply thing but one that can save a lllot of tool throwing etc....

drown the nut in CRC/wd etc..... if you have an older gq particularly a week before you start.....

mine would have been so much more pleasurable.... dam rusty shit

i drowned the the 2 bolts on mine, it is the lock tite that is the problem though. 1 of them came free, the other broke the cage holding the nut.

2 more things, you need to adjust the auto linkage, the transfer case lever and bend the brake lines away from the inner skirt in the engine bay.

CRUSHU wrote:

Bingham wrote:such a simply thing but one that
i drowned the the 2 bolts on mine, it is the lock tite that is the problem though. 1 of them came free, the other broke the cage holding the nut.

When this happens (it just happened to me) whats the best way to undo the bolts once the nut starts spinning in the broken cage? (I put some heat in there but obviously not enough)

Mark2 wrote:

CRUSHU wrote:

Bingham wrote:such a simply thing but one that
i drowned the the 2 bolts on mine, it is the lock tite that is the problem though. 1 of them came free, the other broke the cage holding the nut.

When this happens (it just happened to me) whats the best way to undo the bolts once the nut starts spinning in the broken cage? (I put some heat in there but obviously not enough)

carefully cut your floor with an angle grinder (rough, but all I had) or a pnumatic hacksaw or similar. watch for sparks with the grinder, they eat into the glass, and you can't remove it.
then you can get some vicegrips in there.