help removing tie rods *UPDATE*

[De-lux]

so i am bored this arvo and decide to try to remove my existing rod to install the superior engineering rock rod and my new rancho steering dampener when i can into greif. how do i get it off? i have circled the nuts and bolts i have removed.

any help much appeciated. dammit, now my keyboard is all greasy. the last pic is my workshop...

[customhilux]

2 hammers, hold one on the side of the ball joint on ya j arm hit the other side with a hammer, will flex ya ball joint. wallahhh.

[RV80]

Hit them with a hammer

[Luv to 4B]

Delux you need a tie rod poper, it is a special tool..they are cheap too They are a two pronged fork. The two forks have a taper on them. You simply slip the fork on the tie rod where the rubber sleeve sits hit it in gently with a lump hammer to get it to sit in tight them hit it with a sledge...two hits and it will come appart easy. Hope this helps. You should be able to by this tool from total tool or gas weld or an equivalent store.


Good luck

[De-lux]

$5? $10? i hope not too much... i'll have to get that this weekend.


thanks eveyone

[STUMPY]

you don't have to do all that shit.

because it's a tapered fit you just have to hit it on the side. basically you are trying to squash it a little and it will pop out. trust me

[berazafi]

I cant belive in 1000 or so posts you havnt learnt how to remove a ball joint

Anyway as the others said, dont worry about fancy tools, just hit each side of the ball joint retainer (the bit the thread sticks out of) with 2 hammers, as soon as the timings right it will just drop out. It is a tapered fit


Dave

p.s. dont try and hit the threaded bit through as it wont acheve anything exept you wont be ever able to get the nut back on

[De-lux]

I cant belive in 1000 or so posts you havnt learnt how to remove a ball joint

im a unix programmer. i know computers. i usually pay for shit to get done to my truck. im slowly learning....

[Tojo]

buy the tool. The theory with the hammers will only work if they are easy to get out. None of the ones i have ever done are easy to get out. For years i used the hammers method. Bashed the crap out of the so called "easy to get out" tapered fittings. Then one day i got real smart and baught the el cheapo tool from supercheap, replaced the flimsy bolt that it came with with a grade 8 bolt and hey presto! Even the really hard to remove ones come out easy.

[berazafi]

I cant belive in 1000 or so posts you havnt learnt how to remove a ball joint

im a unix programmer. i know computers. i usually pay for shit to get done to my truck. im slowly learning....

Sorry I wasnt meaning to be offensive

what i realy meant was having that sort of post count would mean you have probably read nearly every post on here, and so would have come across somthing like this..

Good to see you having a go, btw i use linux on my server and i am real slow at learning that

[bogged]

you don't have to do all that shit.

because it's a tapered fit you just have to hit it on the side. basically you are trying to squash it a little and it will pop out. trust me

fuck yea, did mine few weeks ago on Rocky Track... Hammer and Tire lever and bye bye steerin arm

[De-lux]

who to believe... i'll get back to you all tomorrow arvo as to if i could get it off with out this other part.

[bogged]

who to believe... i'll get back to you all tomorrow arvo as to if i could get it off with out this other part.

on the ends put downward pressure on the threads, and hit the mount, NOT the thread or the tierod.. may seem strange, but you are tryin to shock the thing out.. WD40 for a few days will help too as will heat.

[Luv to 4B]

yes the hammers method will work sometimes but if your still learning to do mechanical stuff you should learn to do things properly. The key is to buy or borrow the right tool for the job and do it right first time. Its like the big nuts that hold the hub on and the wheel bearing in place. Yes using a hammer and a screwdriver will get the nut off but it burs the nut badly. Instead you could spend $25 bucks and buy a cheap socket...im a uni student too so i know what its like being short of cash but you'll have tools forever if you look after them. Remember having the right tools is half the battle.

Once again good luck. PS. you'll save heaps of money doing the work youself and the satisfaction you'll get is priceless.

[skootin]

PLAN A
I would try to undo the clamps on the trackrod the one that goes wheel to wheel as you will not be able to once the tie rod end are out GET stilsens use plenty of wd on all joints. If you can get the wheels off you will have more room to swing the hammer. Consetrate on where your hitting and stay away from the tie rod end if you plan on reusing it IE put the nut back on
PLAN B If you get the wheels off and you can loosen the trackrod simply undo the rod until the tie rod ends unscrew. Then screw the new rod in and presto

[phippsy]

Views of the river, well la te da... In the second pic, the nut and bolt on the left don't need to be undone, they are for clamping the steering rod to the tie rod after a wheel alignment.

Also give a hit with the wd40 or rp7 a few times a day for a day and let sit, that helps heaps. And rather than hitting the thread directly with a hammer, I loosen the nut so it is just clear of the top of the bolt. Not the best but at least you won't ruin the thread. It's not like you need the old steering rod anyway.

[BOGAN V8]

you don't have to do all that shit.

because it's a tapered fit you just have to hit it on the side. basically you are trying to squash it a little and it will pop out. trust me

As Stumpy's pic and the way he said is the easiest way ever, just hit with a decent hammer and it will pop off..

You may have to hit it 2 or 3 times depends on how much WD-40 you have used

This is how i was taught at tafe as the quickest and simplest way and it works

[bubs]

Where are you delux, I'll come around and have that shit off in no time, got a big hammer on hand

undo the nut, I usually dont take it off, but undo it so it is flush with the end of the thread on the TRE

and smack

here is a pic i did ages ago to show how to remove the steering dampener

it is the same process for the steering arm, just hit the front face of the steering arm, The tools you can buy I have had two mechanics tell me they are a waste of time

[De-lux]

ok, i got the steering dampener off (with a bit of belting)

but the rod aint coming out. as you can see from the pics i have belted the shit out of it, and they still aint popping out. any help appreciated.

[RV80]

Get a bigger hammer

[berazafi]

one hammer each side it will come out, its not always the stongest blow that does it either, its just making it flex a little, BTW you will know when its out it will just fall down

Dave

[De-lux]

Get a bigger hammer

top help dickhead

one hammer each side it will come out, its not always the stongest blow that does it either, its just making it flex a little, BTW you will know when its out it will just fall down

Dave

one hammer each side of what? the rod ends? the steering arms?




the entire rod is shifting forwards and backwards a little, but i have belted the absolute shit out of it to no avail...

[stool]

I had the same problem with my draglink
Bashed the sh#t out of it for days untill Dreamer lent me the wright tool
came off with more bashing
And Its a fork like tool and works .

GET THE WRIGHT TOOL and save the blood sweet and extra beer

[De-lux]

oooh, yeah and another problem, i tried to take off my front tyres to get better access, but every single nut wont come off... i have RP7'd them all, and they are firmly on there not going anywhere... any hints to remove stubborn tight - as_a_12 year old nuts?

[ditch]

i have a trick. i mean, its hardly my trick but i use it ALL the time, every single bolt on my truck was rusted to shit and i had to (When i was grinding them off) use this method.

what you want to do is get ur desired tool, i assume ur x-tool thingy for the wheel nuts, and chuck it on. then u want a long pole or something which can fit onto the arm of the tool, then now u have more leverage it should work easy.

diagram:

[De-lux]

i totally forgot about that trick.... thats one of the oldest tricks in the book. i'll give it a go tomorrow. i have ran out of daylight today.

[bru21]

rattle gun. or hit a small breaker bar with a smallish hammer, if you use too much force like a long breaker bar you can twist them (99% or the time its ok though)

[Hybrid]

Your supposed to be hitting the steering arm not the tie rod I think. Sorry did it months ago on the side of the road so not 100% but by reading through the posts this seems the consensus. Also I think we got a pry bar and put some downward pressure on the TR while we belted.

[Tojo]

buy the tool. The theory with the hammers will only work if they are easy to get out.

go to supercheap. Buy the tool. Then go to the bolt shop and replace the standard bolt it comes with with a grade 8 bolt (the standard one will bend). Use the tool, if necesary hit the sides of the taper whilst the tool is tensioned. They will come out. You will get a lot of use with this very cheap tool over the years. It is worth it. Do it !!

[customhilux]

you don't have to do all that shit.

because it's a tapered fit you just have to hit it on the side. basically you are trying to squash it a little and it will pop out. trust me

As Stumpy's pic and the way he said is the easiest way ever, just hit with a decent hammer and it will pop off..

You may have to hit it 2 or 3 times depends on how much WD-40 you have used

This is how i was taught at tafe as the quickest and simplest way and it works

like i said but u need 2 hammers, to bounce the shock back through it, from the other side.

hey delux, u might have to go to the gym,

when did ya get ya wheels changed, cause i'm guessin they used a rattle gun, and this will pull the threads. just use a socket and a breaker bar.