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re drilling axle perch
Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:19 pm
by built4thrashing
thinking of redrilling the spring perch and the spring plate/pad (bit that sits on leaf and holds shock bottom) so to push the diff forward about an inch. Would doing this effect the upper shock mounts? is this a good idea? just doing this to get better clearance in the guards.
Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:21 pm
by nicbeer
Works ok. I spaced the shocks with a couple of washers.
cheers
nic
Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:28 pm
by redzook
wont have any worries
Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:33 pm
by christover1
nicbeer wrote:Works ok. I spaced the shocks with a couple of washers.
cheers
nic
I did the same thing as nic ... christover
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 1:50 pm
by Damo
christover1 wrote:nicbeer wrote:Works ok. I spaced the shocks with a couple of washers.
cheers
nic
I did the same thing as nic ... christover
So what have you guys done about the shocks when moving the diff forward more than 1"? This is on the front I am talking about.
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:12 pm
by nicbeer
Apart from spaceing the shocks out with spaces and lightly grinding bumpstop sides nuthin else.
cheers
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 3:59 pm
by christover1
Damo wrote:christover1 wrote:nicbeer wrote:Works ok. I spaced the shocks with a couple of washers.
cheers
nic
I did the same thing as nic ... christover
So what have you guys done about the shocks when moving the diff forward more than 1"? This is on the front I am talking about.
more than 1" or 25mm gets you into too much work for me.
problems arise with drag link tierod hitting the tie bar at more than 22mm or so, and probs making new shock mounts, and probs with the geometry of the springs etc.
this is just a cheap fix, instead of chassis extensions, rear springs up front and making new shock mounts and possibly moving steering box forward (unsure if really need box moved).
so in my opinion 25mm is absolute max, or it becomes a headache and you may as well do ruf etc.
Oh and yeah, I ground a bit from the side of the bumpstop mount, too, tho it may be unnecessary.
christover
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 4:24 pm
by nicbeer
How much, if at all can the steering box be moved forward without much work being needed??
Was thinking of a 10-20mm spacer under the box and longer bolts
cheers
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 4:48 pm
by christover1
nicbeer wrote:How much, if at all can the steering box be moved forward without much work being needed??
Was thinking of a 10-20mm spacer under the box and longer bolts
cheers
at a guess the limit is when it hits the front crossmember? which looks like 10-20mm.
And the other limit would be length of the steer column, or free play in its splines.
this could be solved with a steering rag joint type spacer, tho I suppose, or making a longer one up.
other limits are obviously anything nearby to the box.
christover
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 8:47 pm
by Damo
christover1 wrote:nicbeer wrote:How much, if at all can the steering box be moved forward without much work being needed??
Was thinking of a 10-20mm spacer under the box and longer bolts
cheers
at a guess the limit is when it hits the front crossmember? which looks like 10-20mm.
And the other limit would be length of the steer column, or free play in its splines.
this could be solved with a steering rag joint type spacer, tho I suppose, or making a longer one up.
other limits are obviously anything nearby to the box.
christover
I agree that the crossmember would be the limiting factor for moving the steering box. I think the best setup is to do the chassis extension and add a new crossmember, then remove the old crossmember and plate the chassis where the exisiting mounts for the steering box are, then relocate the box forward to where you want it, welding in new crush sleeves.
I also agree with you Christover when you say that 1" is about the max to go forward without changing steering box location shocks and bumpstops.