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christovers cheap front end mods

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:11 am
by christover1
First up, I imagine these mods to be for Off Road Use Only ;) tho rules everywhere differ. They do affect handling and therefore safety. I have not had any bad probs yet.

I redrilled axle plate and spring perch on the axle housings, thus bring diff forward, for tyre clearance and better weight balance for climbing.
Half way between the original hole and the edge of the axle spring perch seemed strongest idea, and is max possible without moving steer box.

Re: christovers cheap front end mods

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:16 am
by christover1
To avoid any complex building of shock mounts, I just spaced the bottom of the shock back, about 5-8mm just enough so nut still fits, and also added a bit of length to the sleeve inside the shock rubber.

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:20 am
by sierrajim
what springs are you running in the front?

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:20 am
by christover1
I spaced down the top of the shock by using two OME bushes under the mount, and to stop it coming loose I used a lock nut on the small standard rubber on top...the spacing means nut dont lock up hard on metal.
I did this because during some work on truck I noticed springs had more down than the shock allowed. And because of lightness it hardly ever uses all its up travel anyway.

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:23 am
by christover1
Because of the extra travel, brakelines were over stretched..people with money just buy longer ones..people with welders move the bracket..I found bending the bracket outwards allowed enough length in the line :)
You would have to measure own truck as all are different.

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:25 am
by christover1
bumpstop spacer was still needed after fitting the mongrels and bashing the inside of arches.

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:28 am
by christover1
Wasn't necessary to mod steering box position as only a small move forward of the diff made it not needed. Two rag joints is because of the Body Lift. Its safer, I think, than stretching your luck with the spline length.

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:31 am
by christover1
Don't go too long on front shackles as steering/handling will be adversely affected..some decide on length by getting most out of the shock they are using..ie fill in the gap between spring droop and shox droop.

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:33 am
by christover1
If you look carefully you can see a light mark on the tiebar where the tierod end of the drag link touches on full compression.
this is the limit when not moving steer box.

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:34 am
by Bad JuJu
sierrajim wrote:what springs are you running in the front?


I copied this from another thread

christover1 wrote:standard front OME springs with the perches redrilled.
22mm is exactly half way between original hole and edge of the metal.
(standard zook springs be OK)
And roughly 1" or 25mm longer shackles.
OME shoks, with top of front shocker spaced down 10mm with use of two poly bushes underneath the mount and a rubber bush on top with a locking nut.
christover

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:36 am
by christover1
I cut the outer guard about 40mm up and bent up the curved bit of inner guard and pop rivitted it back together...head light bucket only rarely catches on tyre, so I removed some of the metal and replaced with rubber sheets.
with tar paint its hardly noticeable

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:37 am
by Bad JuJu
christover1 wrote:If you look carefully you can see a light mark on the tiebar where the tierod end of the drag link touches on full compression.
this is the limit when not moving steer box.


Is this still a problem with the extended bumpstops ??

Do you use driveshaft spacers with the 22mm froward relocaton of the front diff ??

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:43 am
by christover1
some action shots
this is all done on a pension.
If you have money there are no doubt better ways .

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:45 am
by christover1
Bad JuJu wrote:
christover1 wrote:If you look carefully you can see a light mark on the tiebar where the tierod end of the drag link touches on full compression.
this is the limit when not moving steer box.


Is this still a problem with the extended bumpstops ??

Do you use driveshaft spacers with the 22mm froward relocaton of the front diff ??


It may not be a prob now I fitted the bump spcers, true.??
I didn't need a drive shaft spacer, but I believe your spline will last longer if you use one...but after moving my tcase back, I did fit one..got a mate with good tools to whip one up from 10mm steel plate...a bit more would be better.

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:47 am
by Bad JuJu
Christover, pix were the pre Mongrel years ??

Thanks for tour time and effort here Christover, your a champ !!
:armsup: :armsup: :armsup:

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:51 am
by christover1
Bad JuJu wrote:Christover, the pre Mongrel Years.

Thanks for tour time and effort here Christover, your a champ !!
:armsup: :armsup: :armsup:


your welcome, now I'm off to mums for a free meal :)
will check again later fer any more questions.
christover

PS I do need some post mongrel shots...that was what most of the work was for

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:53 am
by ljxtreem
you are the man, chris :cool:

Mock

Thanks

Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:53 am
by Damo
Thanks Christover, hopefully this will have answered a few questions for some people.

This should be in the FAQ :D

Posted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 11:32 am
by christover1
http://winter2006.4wheelingoz.com/wi06H ... daFROG.htm

A build up article in 4wheelingOz.com

Strangely one picture has mysteriously vanished? I have the original, though.

Posted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 1:24 pm
by Bajan Tim
nice :)

Posted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 6:20 pm
by ronoor
christover was looking at doin same but with 2'' lift extended shakles same tyres i all ready hit the head light bucket. cheers ron ??